thornleyjacob

Awesome!

I'll be buying no matter what - actually been looking at about $800.00 - $1000.00 US for a set of 5 including the international UPS/FedEx/DHL shipping (basically $200.00 per wheel); just know a lot of people want 14" rims so thought I would try to help set things up for the people on this board. With Primitive Racing already importing the springs from Australia they did show some interest in importing these wheels too; so that shipping cost should be a lot lower... waiting for an email response from them on an estimate per wheel cost to us. With the amount of people looking for good 14" rims, with the proper offset and looks... I think they will make a good import.

I plan on doing that same thing eventually decoy13... what are your plans for a replacement? I been thinking to make a nice metal one... something to bust foreheads on.

Good Luck! Those vents are near impossible to find from what I understand. Wish someone would measure and 3D print them.

Well, lets hope all you did was blow the shock. Gabriel and Monroe sell replacement shocks. Jack the rear up and take that wheel off and play with the components and find out what needs to be replaced. Also if it is brake fluid - wash everything off as that spoob is corrosive and will eat paint.

Guys/Gals, Phil Nelis from Australia has made copies of the 14" Scorpion Wheels from Australia. We may have tracked down a US vendor who can bring them over with their shipment of King Springs; Primitive Racing. Would people be interested in these? To get a general idea of pricing, Phil had quoted be $120.00 AUD per wheel (~$90.00 US) plus shipping. Shipping is the major cost in getting them here but Primitive Racing seems keen on bringing these over to the USA if enough people are interested in them. They would require a deposit for the wheels that people want; so please respond to this post if you are interested. Here are some pictures of the wheels in black and white. EDIT - April 30th, 2015: He got back to me rather quick today. ..................................................................... Yes, likely $100USD per wheel and then about $230 shipping for 5 to Medford. Send the $150 deposit via PAYPAL to: sales@get-primitive.com Will REFUND if this thing does not get off the ground. The post out on the board needs to be much CLEARER. As usual, everyone replies to the post and does not contact ME (like you and just 2 others did) These are REPLICA Scorpion wheels out of Australia. Those interested should email their name/address/phone info to us and exactly what they are looking to get (i.e. qty = 5 BLACK painted Brumby wheels 14x6 4x140) Deposits will need to be made soon, as the wheels must get to the DOCK in BRISBANE by about May 25th. EXACT wheel cost and EXACT shipping still need to be determined... but my above estimate above is likely pretty good. Primitive Enterprises, Inc 9460 SW Tigard St Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223 9:30am -5:30pm PST M-F 503-624-2139 ...............................................................................

Also smell the fluid - your gas filler tube is on the passenger side... so hopefully you are not leaking fuel or fumes.

All the damage seems to be in the rear passenger side? Shock could be blown, or worse (if the wagons had them) the torsion bar may have snapped. You said you was leaking fluids? Where at? Pictures of the rear axle and pictures of the leak would be useful. Fix the issue before investing tons of money into things you wont use if the car is doomed (not within your realm of fixing).

The frames were welded in from the factory. Most have been cut out, some have been redone as bolt on. I've contemplated selling my set of seats, handle bars, frame, and head rests... or remaking the frame. I'd like to make it into two parts and lower sitting. This way I can leave one seat in most of the time, and it would be much safer for an adult to ride in the back then; as their whole head would not be protruding over the top of the vehicle.

Thanks!

Canister is old; I either want to update it or delete it. Going over options but wanted some photos of what others have done.

That is what I am thinking too; I cannot understand how else it would have worked originally as the charcoal canister would have flooded with fuel in the same scenario. Also, the return line is not the issue - this one we plug off. Its the fuel tank vent line that I'm worried about.

Just want pictures or links to the parts people are using as the vent line's filter when deleting all the extra garbage from the engine bay during a Weber conversion. Thanks!

Doing a Weber conversion and looking at my options for the engine bay fuel filter, return line, and fuel tank vent line... I like the idea of just deleting it all like you basically say here. But what happens if I am in a steep decline and the line's opening is at lower elevation than that of the gas tank; wouldn't it leak? If so, how does one stop that from happening?

Sounds like something isn't sliding into place; could be gear oil issue like you noted. It did make me think of this video though:

Could you post part numbers for the Redline Fuel Pump you used and also for the Holley FPR?

I did the Gabriel Struts and King Springs for the front end on my brat; lot better than what it had on when I got it. As far as the struts are concerned, since some people have reported bad news with the Gabriel struts, as soon as they were on I took the rig out into the mountains for Elk Hunting season... did some definite offroading with the vehicle and the struts survived (~1000 miles). Now to get the rear fixed up, but working on my cooling system first.

This is probably that one that sold on craigslist recently for $900.00; something like a month or two ago. Hopefully the owner got it, because I have been regretting not just buying it.

Thanks!

Let me know - Breezerwindows responded with a custom window for and extra $150.00 over their already high pricing. But would look nice. Also contemplating making a lexan 3 piece window that is fully removable.

Howdy, So I am now on the hunt for parts to jam my rear siding window back into the 1984 Subaru Brat. But it appears that both the inner rubber channel and outer rubber weatherstrip are pretty much no longer available. So now I am left with wondering WTF I am going to do. I browsed around the site and web for a bit today and found a few things but nothing that is either made for the model or in stock/being made anymore. So... What have you good peeps done to get around this mess? Anyone try a DIY Glass or Plexiglass rear window? It seems a lot of trucks basically glue their window up... I also stumbled across http://www.breezerwindows.com/ and have sent them an email asking if they can custom make one. Who knows. Any ideas out there? Hints? Suggestions? Thanks, Jacob

Those are nice tires; not sure about the 175 vs 185 though - 185 is stock, no?

You know what this thread needs? Pictures of the tire installed on the 13" wheel and mounted...

Honestly, I think a crash at 60mph or more is basically going to be pretty traumatic in either car and it also depends greatly on what type of vehicle or obstacle you crash into. Here is are pictures of GLs that appears to have been T-Boned... https://images.copart.com/website/data/pix/20131008/28183313_1X.JPG http://images.copart.com/website/data/pix/20131119/31704383_1X.JPG Those survived well and one should be able to assume that they were hit within the 20-45mph range. When you look at pictures of wrecked Impreza cars, you notice one thing... most are wrecked in the front. These cars tend to make people go faster than they should and feel safer than they should... allows for more dumb mistakes to happen.

To me, it sounds like you fear your own luck vs. what the car is and whom has taken care of it. You trust the owner/mechanic. The owner/mechanic trusted the vehicle enough to cart his family, including kids, around in it. This owner/mechanic going to vanish on you? Is he/she willing to assist you, after the purchase, if you have followup questions? Does he/she have everything he/she has done to the car on paper? This way if you must take it to another mechanic you will at least have some idea what they will need to know to service the various parts. The mileage is not really a concern as long as the car was taken care of; being that the current owner is a mechanic and one you trust - I wouldn't think it is an issue. As someone else mentioned here; do a compression test and maybe a thorough check for rust on the unibody.