thornleyjacob

Is that a motorcycle in your dining room?

Those parts are relatively low cost too - so may as well buy new instead of used.

www.rockauto.com shows they have some for the 1980 GL 1.6 standard transmission. Both the motor and transmission mounts. Not sure what car exactly you have though.

Yeah, I am still working on my jump seats. I want to build two frames... one for each chair... that way I can remove one if we are not using it that day. I doubt I will get them lined as the seats I got are in decent shape.

I would like to know what Gen2 aftermarket components you all use? Any recommendations? The one thing I see a lot of is the Weber Carbs... Anything else? Battery, Coil, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Radiator, Valve Covers, etc...

I was thinking of packing around a set of Jackmans with ATV tires on them... for when I am off-road. Not sure the viability of that though.

I have been looking around and have only found these as options so far for local... Hankook Zovac HP W401 in 185/70r13 Toyo Extensa A/S in 185/70r13

I have about 100,000 miles on torn axle boots on my 00' OBS - PS Side one is just now presenting with noises and they will be replaces soon.

What one of these two vehicles are we talking about? 93 Loyale Sedan 2WD, 92 Loyale Sedan 4WD? You could be having "clicking" in the axle. The noise would only really present itself when torque is fed to the rear or when you hit a bump. Your struts mounts could be bad. Your struts could be bad. Your springs could be bad, resulting in the struts bumping.

From what I could tell through a few days of searching online; Herculiner seems to have the most "good" comments about a DIY bedliner. The only reason I opted to give the Duplicolor Bed Armor an attempt was I found it on clearance and for sale; was 30 bucks a gallon - otherwise my DIY attempt would have been with the Herculiner and it would have been much more costly.

Assume this is for the "1988 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD" in your profile? How wide are the pugs? Any suspension mods other than a lift kit? These are all things that will help the people here narrow down your choices I think. Where are you going to get the lift from? They probably have some recommendations on what to use too.

Also, I would highly recommend using at 2-3 coats of POR-15 first; just make sure to rough it down after it cures with 60-80 grit before applying the bed liner. The POR-15 is a rust treatment that should stop more rust from forming in locations you cannot get to with a wire wheel or sander. I applied it just because I wanted it in all the seams between the panels; where the bed liner would not get to. While POR-15 is expensive; you can get the smaller can of it for about $30.00, the marine clean for about $15.00, and the metal ready for about $15.00. That one small can will do 2-3 coats on the bed. You may end up liking the POR-15 so much that you will opt not to spend the time doing the bed liner. POR-15 is also brush on.

How long was that DIY bed liner in before it started coming up like that? Also what are your plans for addressing the major rust issues on the wheel wells?

Thank you for the shots! If I may ask, can you take closeups of where the bar mounts down close to the seat belt bolt holes near the cabin wall? Also are there metal plates underneath reinforcing where the bolts are in the wheel wells? Also what liner is on that and what one are you getting put in?

It was going to be (without the tailgate) $450.00 for the standard or $525.00 for the premium that has the UV blocker in it; I paid the $525.00. This was also after attempts at making Duplicolor Bed Armor work; that stuff is horrible - even with proper preparation. After 5-6 days of letting the small panels cure with the Bed Armor - I was able to score it with my thumbnail - not cool. I also took a whole weekend sanding out every bit of rust that I could find - surface or deep. Then I did the POR-15 cleaner spray, metal prep spray, then 2-3 coats of POR-15... knowing that the guys at Line-X would sand most of that down. I wanted to be sure every little place that the bed liner didn't reach was sealed by the POR-15; and I also did this to explore/inspect every bit of the bed before the liner went down. Honestly I was a bit apprehensive spending that much... But I saw a friends Rhino Liner and while it was hard and it stuck, it also dulled to a grey. The guys at the shop seemed genuinely interested in the Brat; there was another guy who brought in a new Tacoma and they treated him way different (even though his was going to be more expensive). The guys at the shop answered every question I had before I did the job. I also work at a location where people spend gobs of money for things that wont last nearly as long as the liner... so that made me man up and spend the money.

So when it is idling, have you gotten out and listened to exactly where the rattle is coming from on the hatch? I know on my 00 OBS had a rattle noise form the hatch and I when I popped open the plastic covers I found a piece of Styrofoam had come loose from behind the metal bar that runs between the latching mechanisms and the hatch handle. I re-glued it back in place and the noise went away - not sure if this is the same noise you are getting.

Also does anyone know what is the OE diameter of the roll bars are?

Yes, I know how to google and search forums. Trust me, I have spent about a week looking for what I want. I guess for those that may not understand what I would like; I would like a closeup pictures of someone's installed Gen 2 roll bar mounting points. In the bed and at the wheel well. I am interested in seeing how/if the bar blocks the side drain holes and how/if it covers up the outside seat-belt bolt. I also wanted to inspect how the mounting on the wheel well works in better detail than what I have found on google and in the forums. I am looking at having someone who manufactures roll-bars and bumpers make me one and they may be interested in making more...

Could I get some pictures of where the roll bars mount in a Gen 2 Brat? I am looking for pictures of the actual mounts and mount points, not just a picture of the Brat's bed with arrows pointing to here and there.

Got Line-X in the bed...

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40866 You may be asking too much.

Front quarter panels are not an issue as they can be replaced by bolt off-bolt on... rear panels that usually part of the uni-body and a nightmare to swap (cut and weld), not sure on the XT6 though as it has an odd body. How are the rocker panels - usually one of the first places for rust to form? If it has the rough textured tape under the paint - poke it gently to see if there is strength or not as the metal under the tape can rust from the inside and the tape hides the rust sometimes.

You should add in an interior picture and an engine compartment picture and also take side shots of the rocker panels.

Possibly due to the heat? The gasses are more warm and expanded causing more even pressure when warm? When it is cold the exhaust is a bit more turbulent? I have no idea really, just making a stab in the dark.

So what are you needing to do to the interior?