BirdMobile

This is the one I bought, but without the Newton-Meter markings on the dial: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I1WPFE/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Well... I paid $150 for it, so I can certainly hope I get what I paid for! Yeah... I bought American made. I have a bad habit of that, but I sleep pretty well at night knowing the extra money I spend is maybe (just maybe) keeping a job or two in this country.

Manifold. The one on the radiator is the thermoswitch for the electric fan.

So... Tired of borrowing my friend's inch pound torque wrench. I have a very nice and accurate U.S. made click type 30-250 Ft. Lb, torque wrench, but the low-end of 30 ft. lb. is just too high for many of rhe bolts on EA-82 engines (oil pan, oil pump, water pump, valve covers, etc.) Up to this point, I've been borrowing my friend's Snap-On 0-600 In. Lb. electronic torque wrench (the "Space Dildo"). It works VERY well, but at $450-ish, it's just plain out of my price range. Besides, I'm more of a low-tech mechanical type guy anyway, I don't trust electronics to be reliable and trouble-free over time. I decided I wanted a dial type torque wrench, since I hate having to remember to reset "clickies" back to zero after use, and you don't get any warning as you're "coming up" on final torque with a clickie. With a dial, you can see the needle approach the final value, which I like, I wanted something that would cover the range of 0-300 inch pounds (0-25 foot pounds) to kind of "fill in" the low end missing with my larger "clickie" U.S. made wrench. I also wanted a memory pointer, so I could see if I over-torqued a fastener for whatever reason. I finally settled on 2 possibilities, a Precision Instruments 0-300 In. Lb. model with memory pointer, and a CDI 0-300 In. Lb. with memory pointer. I did a LOT of shopping around on the internet, and finally gave up on the Precision Instruments wrench - NOBODY seemed to have it in stock. Most dealers had their 150 and 600 In. Lb. models in stock - but the 300 was just not to be found. Too bad... the PI was the one I really wanted of the two. Anyway, I ended up ordering the CDI off Amazon.com, they had the model with inch-pound scale only without the Newton-Meter secondary scale markings - which I never use anyway. Why clutter up your dial face with unnecessary numbers that you don't need? Anyway, it's on the way. Anyone here own or have used one of these? Do you like it? Am I going to regret buying thr CDI instead of the Precision Instruments brand?

No need to unbolt the transmission. 4 bolts hold the engine to the bell housing, 8 more bolts hold the engine to the motor mounts and exhaust Y-Pipe.. You should be able to disconnect everything and pull the engine in an hour or two, depending on how leisurely you want to be about it.

You'll most likely need to pull the head to fix a valve. MUCH easier to do by pulling the engine, I would not want to attempt it in the car, though it can be done. These engines are really easy to pull.

Photo of the final Weber carburator assembly, with new adapter plate and Anaerobic sealant. I used stainless bolts and lock washers throughout. If the sealant lasts, the whole setup should last to eternity!

Does a straight flush beat 3 ninjas? Seriously though... are you saying there is doooom in my carburator's future?

To confuse us, What manifold? What engine? What year?

Do you ever feel like a mutant among men? Like the world is marching to a different music that you can't even hear? Went into a local hardware store yesterday, my girlfriend found a "get $7 off your $20 purchase" coupon... my first thought was "Tools!". Now, most of my tools have been obtained at yard sales, pawn shops, and thrift stores. Probably 75% Craftsman, 15% Mac, Snapon and Proto, and 10% other non-asian name brands. I go out of my way to buy ONLY quality stuff, I see tools as a lifetime investment and I only want rugged, nicely finished tools that are a joy to use. So I browse the new tools section of this hardware store. I found a grsnd total of ONE ratchet with a metal direction selector - ALL the rest had plastic selectors. EVERY tool in the wrenches/ratchets section was made in China. All the Craftsman stuff no longer had "USA" stamped into the handle/base. WTF????? I left without buying anything, and told the store manager on my way out how completely apalled I was about the situation - he just said "not my fault - people want cheap and I sell a lot of it". I'm disgusted. This "civilization" is circling the drain... and tool quality is just one of the symptoms. Bright side though... getting in my BirdMobile in the parking lot, a lady drives up and parks next to me in an early-90's Loyale, gets out, and asks me how long I've had my Subie and what year it is. We talk a minute, then she says she plans on keeping her Loyale the rest of her life. If my girlfriend hadn't have been there, I just might have asked the lady to marry me! (Just kidding...) Rant off.

This.

Yep. Perfectly flat surfaces... ideal for Anaerobic sealant. If it doesn't work right for whatever reason, I can always tear it down again and use traditional gaskets. I see this as an experiment of sorts... I'll keep you updated on the results.

Yeah... 3 short, 6 long PER HEAD. You can re-use them. I've heard you're supposed to use new washers every time, something about them being spring washers, but I looked at mine and they seemed too thick for that, but what do I know. Bought new washers for my recent rebuild anyway, might have been a waste of money but I guess it's one less thing to worry about. Anyone here know the scoop on the head bolt washers?

Sealed it up today... we'll see how it runs tomorrow! Photo of my new adapter block and anaerobic sealed Weber carburator:

I've had good luck putting a screwdriver through one of the side holes.

Mine were badly melted... I removed all the bolts holding the covers to the engine, then broke the remaining cover pieces off. Been running the timing belts "naked" since my rebuild, over a month now of both on and off road, no problems yet.

That looks like a casting mark to me...

Quick question - how resistant to gasoline is anaerobic flange sealant? Thinking of using it on a carburator adapter plate for intake manifold. Bad idea?

Please describe the part... I might be able to help you.

Hi all. I want to obtain ORIGINAL SUBARU PAPER COPY service manuals for the EA82 engine, I just got off the phone with the Subaru stealership and they told me "No availability". Frustrating. Does anyone here know where I can get the 6 volume set in paper form? I already have the badly scanned and incomplete PDF documents, PLEASE don't suggest them or post links for them. Thanks!

It's definitely an EJ22. I verified that before doing thr trade. The transmission did not originally come in a car with that engine, things were swapped before I ended up with the pair.

Sorry... no other connectors on the intake. Does thia mean I can't use the engine with an ECU? Do I have to add a distributor and carburator to get it running?

Photo attached. A black and white squarish-oval connector, 3 pins each. Also a blue 2-pin connector on the end of a cable. 4 red 2-pin connectors, one on each fuel injector.

Yes... engine has an intake. Don't know the year of the engine... only that it is pre-96 (it has dual exhaust ports on each head).

Yes... ECU module and wiring harness. Neither came with the engine. I can do my own wiring, but I need the ECU and maybe the connector plug. $35 sounds great... could you email me? (email addy deleted... email received. Thanks!) Thanks! . .