Cmosfet

Ah thank you, i messed with it earlier today. Just got back from the store and i guess i did not adjust the holder right, it held on a hill and did not release. Locked up brakes, i didnt know whats was up at first. Then figured i must have miss adjusted the holder. Pulled over and luckily i did not tighten the clutch locknut. Unscrewed the hillholder nut and quick adj of clutch and it never felt better. I will fine tune it tomorrow. I think i will get rid of the hill holder. I want car as simple as possible.

Hi all, I am trying to figure out what is up with the clutch adjustment. I have never had a cable clutch before. Is the fork supposed to flop up and down and basically all over when you release the tension on the hill holder spring? I either get grinding gears or the rpm slows when i let out the clutch. I can shift it then but not very smooth and have to floor the pedal. I think it needs a new cable also(looks original with 225k miles and can use most of the threads) but the floppy fork has me confused. I did read how to adjust but this doesnt seem to want to do it. Thanks in advance...

Went to do front wheel bearings as the passenger front was making bad noises. (1991 loyale 4wd wagon) Also struts so it wouldnt bounce anymore...they were beyond shot. Had both knuckles off car and free of bearings and ball joints in about 3 hours. I was either lucky or stuff wasnt very tight:) i think the reason the bearings failed is because there was no "spacer" in the right side. And the spring washer had machined itself into the cone washer. Baaaaad ridge also like i read in some posts here in my searches. So off to the yard. I found a spacer and good cone washer and spotted a turbo wagon. Woohooo now i have all the parts to do disc on rear...will have to wait and do rear shocks and brakes when i get more money. The engine looks all there if anyone needs parts. It is a 91 loyale wagon in spokane, wa. I think i had some great luck as everything came off pretty easy. One thing is i did buy the dorman castle nut kit with the spring washer. It looks like the OUT is stammped on the opposite side than the subaru oem ones. I am tempted to put them on like oem or use the old ones. I need to get a hosting place so i can put up pics. Oh, found a shop down the street that did the strut cartridge replacement very reasonable and great guy. He will press bearing in so i might have them do it this time. Cant wait to drive it with new shocks, the back to make sure the cooling system is right couldnt have done all this without this forum...great place !!!!

I having a problem with the new oem thermostat. Does the oem one have a rubber ring around the flange? The dealer said this is the cross for my vin but it dont fit at all. Also said the 21200AA121 is not available. I got a 212100aa120 which is supposed to work but i dont see how...

Ok will double check. I replaced those also with new ones but i will make sure i did not miss a leak. I guess that its in the area ya?

Ok well i received the wrong tstat so i will have to send it back. When i went to replace it i noticed again coolant drips on the header stud. Driver side stud closest to firewall. I dont see it collecting from anywhere else and the bolt is nice and clean and wet. I think i will pick up a compression tester and check. From the searching i have done looks like a crack in the head? I see no smoke at all..well except what is dripping on the manifold haa... Im going to go ahead and do the tests again, burp coolant and do another bubble test. Oh, both studs on that side came out if thats any clue. They came out and went in ok though.

Thanks for help! Ya i dont see any smoke at all. I have seen a drop of coolant on bottom of timing cover near pump. I just pulled off the end covers to see more. Will probably get rid of all the covers soon. Fresh new oem rad cap. Oem thermostat will be here today. I have been puttng car on ramps to purge. I will do again tonight with new tstat. Im not sure of the radiator condition, i did have it out and ran water through it but like i said im not sure if that is a good test? Earlier when i was purging and left the cap off, it did geyser out if the cap hole... i dont think i let it run that long this last tine...uh..thats not normal is it?? Geyser out the rad cap opening...Thanks again, great place!!

Pretty sure one is the ride height for adjustable suspension.

Ok, i did the test and i did not see a stream of bubbles. Coolant did rise to the top and spill abit. As i reved it would suck back in and then rise again. Top hose was hot so i guess the tstat opened. I put car on ramps and got it warmed up. Shut it off, let cool and topped off while squeezing hoses and kept topping off. Did this a few times. I still hear a little gurgling behind dash so i guess i will keep trying and make sure all air is out. Although the gauge did not get to half like before. Maybe i need to drive around more? Thanks again for the help, ill keep trying and reading. And order an oem tstat i am also thinking of having the radiator looked at or cleaned out or replace it... i dont know how old it is...

Ahh ok, thank you!! will do that today. I was planning on pulling motor and re seal but not this soon. Ya the previouse owner did say it overheated a few times on him and he admitted to not being very nice to it, as far as maintenance. But its rust free and in good condition so it would be worth it. Thanks again...will post back on resulys.

Hi all, Sorry for longish post.... Still trying to get my loyale reliable. Its a 1991 4wd spfi, 220k on at least the chassis. I have replaced ALL coolant hoses, thermostat is a new napa one. I know i need oem. It will be ordered today. I have removed the radiator and flushed with hose. I was reasearching this site last night like mad and read that does not mean very much? I also flushed the heater core back and forth a few times...also read that will not hinder cooling even if it was clogged abit. I drove about 20 miles yesterday and coolant got a little above the c. Drove more and it reached middle and maybe a little above. Was pretty happy i got the cooling system figured out. Drove around more listening to the front wheel bearing i need to replace and when i got home i heard gurgling. Shut off car and the overflow was boiling so bad it was shaking. Temp still in the middle. Earlier this week, I have also seen a drop of coolant on one exhaust header bolt driver side. Replaced both header gaskets and i dont see it. I searched on this and could be a crack somewhere. Both studs on that side came out but looked ok. I am reading like mad but am kinda stuck on what to do next. I am pulling timing covers off today to check for water pump leaks and what not. (Also seen a small bright green blob on timing covers bottom near pump) Similar posts i get that the radiator is bad..is this the right track. Again, sorry for long post...any help would be awesome. In case it helps .. also replaced: plugs ngk,wires ngk, cap and rotor, intake gaskets oem,pcv oem,tbi gasket oem all vacume hoses. And rad cap oem. Also, is there anyone in the spokane wa area that would be willing to meet up and give me some reference as to where i am on how this thing is running, i know no one with an ea82. My sti is no reference

Hi, i am still learning but i had that code when i got my 91 loyale wagon. It means the egr solenoid control valve is bad. Either electrically opened up or a bad connection. From what i have read, the computer just checks for resistance of the coil in the valve and if it does not see it it thows the code. I hear they go bad all the time. That one and the purge control valve. Same type of valve. I think the egr does not do anything untill higher rpm or load, like when you let off throttle while cruising? Other gurus will know more on that. Hope that helps somewhat

Ah thanks. I was not sure on the rears, i did my older wrx wagons(2004) rears when i had it and did not need a spring compressor. I could not find a writeup for this loyale yet. Will search more. Yes i will remove whole strut assy and take them to a shop. Found some great deals on struts. Thanks again.

Hi all Bean, the 1991 red wagon needs shocks baaaaad. Any recommendations? I read that kyb rears and monroe fronts are good. I know the fronts need compressed with a tool but do the rears? I am thinking of replacing top hats too. I think all are original with 220k on them. Probably pull Everthing out and have a shop to the work and i will put back. Thanks in advance. Car is running much better thanks to this forum...will post pics as soon as i get a hosting account.

Hi, someone elae can probably answer better... the o2 sensor connects to the computer under steering column, behind that trim piece . There is a neutral switch in the tranny im pretty sure. Maybe a bad switch or connection. The flashes is the "region" code for the car. Not sure if that is the proper term. Mine flashes 5 times. I think that was US and Canada?. The california ones will flash different. I think its 6 times. I will look it up in the docs when i get home.

Ah sweet...thank you. Feel better now.

Hi all, So in my continued attempt to revive my 91 loyale wagon, i removed the intake to replace the gaskets and change tbi gaskets and parts. I forgot to drain coolant. As i removed the intake, coolant leaked out. I then drained some out of the radiator. After removing intake, i noticed the driver side intake to the head was filled with coolant. Pfffff. I sucked it out, cant see anymore in there. I guess i should have pulled the drain plugs to block? Question is hopefully all i will get is some white smoke when i fire it up? Live and learn i guess. Im a newbdork

Ah just read and found out i should use oem thermostat. Just placed an order with subaru too. Will order oem thermostat now.. also think i double posted...sorry...

Hello, In my quest to revive this 1991 SPFI loyale, i replaced all coolant hoses. I went to burp system last night. I have read lots here on how to do and still forgot to turn heater on full...arggg. I will try again tonght but have a quick question. I fired it up and sounded great, idled high for abit then right down nicely. Radiator cap off i watched as it would spit some out, fill it up a lite. Did that a few times while checking temp gauge and feeling upper rad hose. Then all of the sudden,10min or so later, it didnt just burp it started thowing up coolant from the filler tube(rad cap). It was late and i stopped. before this the hose felt warm and i figured the tstat was open. Maybe not though. Was my big mistake not turnig heater on high? Also should put it on a slope or ramps to promote coolant to get into heater core? I did read a post from miles that said it would geyser if a big bubble came through. It kinda freaked me out the amount it was spewing so i figured i would stop and do some research. Thanks all in advance, learning lots here, hope to get the beast(im calling it "bean" for some reason hahaha) on the road soon.

Hello, In my quest to revive this 1991 SPFI loyale, i replaced all coolant hoses. I went to burp system last night. I have read lots here on how to do and still forgot to turn heater on full...arggg. I will try again tonght but have a quick question. I fired it up and sounded great, idled high for abit then right down nicely. Radiator cap off i watched as it would spit some out, fill it up a lite. Did that a few times while checking temp gauge and feeling upper rad hose. Then all of the sudden,10min or so later, it didnt just burp it started thowing up coolant from the filler tube(rad cap). It was late and i stopped. before this the hose felt warm and i figured the tstat was open. Maybe not though. Was my big mistake not turnig heater on high? Also should put it on a slope or ramps to promote coolant to get into heater core? I did read a post from miles that said it would geyser if a big bubble came through. It kinda freaked me out the amount it was spewing so i figured i would stop and do some research. Thanks all in advance, learning lots here, hope to get the beast(im calling it "bean" for some reason hahaha) on the road soon.

The ac turns on and blows nice cold air. I have not let it run long enough to see if it cycles. I will do so tonight and see. Where is this single wire connection? By the relays on pass strut tower? Mine definitely does not idle up when ac is on. It will icrease then drop below normal idle.

Hmmm, must read on how to post big pics....kinda a newb ...

This is a SPFI unit. Im thinking the computer gets a signal that the ac is on and adjusts the IAC valve to kick up idle. Well using the schematic i disconnected the trinary valve and shorted the two wires triggering the fan relay and it came on. 86 wonder wedge: oh ok, everywhere i read it said the fan came on when ac is on. So i figured it always did. Is there a way to test the switch? Or maybe just run it and see if it trips. Its been near or at 100 here for quite awhile and will be for some time:) I will remove the thermoswitch and test it with boiling water, just to make sure that works. I like switches so i will probably add a switch to trigger the relay. Here is a pic of the engine... I hear everyone likes pics. I clean on breaks makes it funner to work on for me. Thank you all for the help. Now i need to replace some hoses and get the air bubbles out of cooling system and on to other issues.

Loyale 2.7 turbo...yes i read your excellent write up on relays. And also the electric fan conversion, very nice. Plan on doing some of that once i get the vehicle running good(and licensed:) i recently purchased it and it needs lots of love. Having fun working on it and learning. Way easier to work on than the sti. Gloyale... Yesssss thank you sooo much for the schematics. Im on it now. It is the hitachi system and it blows cold air. I do not know much at all about ac systems so i guess it could be low on pressure and still blow cold air? If that switch is bad or not tripping, wonder if it is the cause of my idle not going up when ac is on. ...studying schematic... THANK YOU!!

When i turn on the ac/defrost. I have not checked the actual thermo switch yet. I checked the pulser by turning on the ac and unplugging the pulser connecter on the compressor. This disengaged the ac clutch. I think this means the ecu sees the pulser signal? Ah, fusible links... I will check those. And look behind glovebox.