mwatt

I've seen a few posts where 2.5L engines have had burned exhaust valves; makes me wonder if lack of adjustment was the cause. I've got a 1998 Outback and a '99 Legacy GT---both of them are at the milage where Subaru calls for "inspecting valve adjustment". Because these engines use shims to adjust valve clearance and there's little room between the cylinder heads and the front "frame rails" in the engine compartment, a special **expensive** tool is required to check valve adjustment if the engine is in the car.

I put a set of Michelin Pilots on my '99 Legacy GT a few months ago. My most important consideration was also a quiet ride. I am pleased with the smoothness of these tires, especially because the lousy Goodyears that I took off sounded like old-fashioned snow tires (previous owner didn't rotate tires often enough). The traction of the Pilots in heavy rain is good but they haven't been on the car long enough to try them in snow (we don't get that much snow here anyway). For whatever reason, Subaru specifies an "H" rated tire ("H" rating is for speed up to 130 mph) on the '99 Legacy GT, but that car couldn't do 130 mph over a high cliff.......although I've had mine up to about 90 and it feels very stable with the Pilots on it.

It downshifts from which gear to which? At what speed does it typically occur?

For refilling ATF, I found a "specialty funnel" (with a very long spout) at WalMart. The spout on this funnel is long enough that you can simply insert it into the dipstick tube and pour 4.5 qts of ATF right into the tube to refill the trans after draining it.

You might be referring to Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. I installed them in our '98 Outback and '99 Legacy GT. My wife and I feel that the SilverStar bulbs vastly improve night vision because they are substantially brighter than standard bulbs. This was important to us because we live in a more rural area with poorly-lighted 2 lane roads. The only downside to the SilverStar bulbs is that they're expensive and they don't last as long as "conventional" bulbs. Our safety is more important to us, however, so we don't mind the expense or more frequent replacement intervals.

I don't own an Impreza, but the symptom you describe (especially the dim glow of the hi beam indicator even though the hi beams are off) lead me to think there's a bad or loose headlamp circuit ground connection. Look at the ground connections in the engine compartment. A "ground connection" has one (or more) black wires attached to the body with a single bolt. Ground connections are typically located on the inner fenders, strut towers, and the radiator core support (the metal structure that the radiator bolts to). Ground connections must be tight and free of corrosion or you'll get weird feedback like this (warning lights glowing dimly), especially when other components are turned on/off.

Yes, it's a pain in the rump roast. But actually very easy to do IF you set aside enough time and you're in the right mental state. Buy a six-pack of Heineken the night before you do this. All kidding aside, the job is easy enough if you move things out of the way, and you take your time and don't force stuff. I can't over-emphasize that. Don't force stuff. Resist the temptation to forcefully "jerk" plug wires loose, etc. And obviously, all of this should be done only with the engine cool, never hot. You must remove the windshield washer tank and the fuel filter bracket from the left strut tower. (to prevent tearing up your arm when you reach down towards the spark plugs because the bracket sticks out and WILL hurt). Note carefully how the fuel filter bracket is assembled before you take it off. You must remove the "air box" or at least the air filter cover and snorkle from the right side of the engine compartment. Once these things are removed and out of the way, it's much easier to grasp and twist the plug wire boots loose from the spark plugs. Be sure to use the little "finger pulls" that are molded into the plug wire boots to grasp them. Forcing the plug wire boots off of the plug by "ripping" them off will only damage the plug wire, resulting in engine misfiring. Since Subaru has been so generous in providing about one inch of space between the rocker covers and the vehicle frame, you have to gently wiggle the plug wire boot out from between the frame and the engine, then move each plug wire up and out of the way. If the plug wires are the originals, you may want to consider replacing them while you're replacing the spark plugs. By the way, Subaru offers "Subaru of America" replacement plug wires as a complete set, as well as the original-equipment plug wires, but the OE wires are sold singly. The advantage to the OE wires is they fit exactly and they're even the same silly red color. Removing the spark plugs from the cylinder heads is pretty straight-forward after all the other stuff is off--just use a 3/8 drive ratchet and a deep well spark plug socket (I think it's a 5/8 spark plug socket but someone else chime in here if I'm wrong...) It's getting your hands down into the engine compartment between the cylinder heads and the frame rails that's the real challenge. By the way, on reassembly, be sure to apply anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads and silicon spark plug boot release to the inside of each plug wire boot. Each plug wire boot must be gently wiggled back between the frame rail and the cylinder head, guided into the cylinder head and onto the spark plug. You'll be able to tell that each boot is secured to each spark plug because there will be a distinct "click" when the boot completely engages onto the plug. If you don't here that "click", you may end up with a misfire because the boot won't be completely attached to the plug. Oh, yeh.....about removing that windshield washer tank----have a couple of small rubber "vacuum caps" handy to plug off the hose connector on each washer pump after the hoses are pulled loose, or you'll end up loosing all of your washer fluid on the garage floor. I learned the hard way. Also, resist the temptation to force the electrical connectors loose from the washer pumps. If you study them carefully, you'll see that they have a little release tab that needs to be gently pried so the connector comes loose from each washer pump. Oh, but wait, there's more.....if you find that the old spark plugs and plug wire boots are soaked with engine oil, you'll need to replace the inner and outer rocker cover gaskets......but that's a whole different story. If you get all of this done while maintaining your composure AND the engine runs perfectly afterwards, then reward yourself with the Heinekens.

If you haven't already found it, here's a link that shows the most helpful information: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sh...php?threadid=91

If you are going to do this yourself, there are several great posts already here showing "how to". Many of us have gone to Radio Shack and purchased a couple of packages of their cat # 7219 "micro lamps" (2 per package) to replace burned out mode control and other dash switch back-lighting bulbs. For the less "adventurous" among us, Subaru does sell the bulb and socket assemblies for the three lamps in the A/C mode control panel. I believe one of the other posts shows those Subaru part numbers.......

You mention "They fall apart. Alfa Romeo has the dubious destinction of having the car with the largest depreciation rate in existance." I still think that distinction belongs to Kia, but Alfa can't be too far behind. And what doesn't fall apart ends up rusting.

check this link: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm it's the best one around with specific instructions for programming the vehicle to accept a new transmitter.

'96-'99 Legacy wagon?

Valet mode turns the alarm system off temporarily so if you leave the vehicle with a parking garage attendant, they won't set the alarm off. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to contact your Subaru dealer but remember, the owner's manual insert for the upgrade kit only came with the kit. I can't picture a dealer having this little 3 page guide laying around. As you're probably aware, the trouble with many dealers is that personnel come and go, and asking current employees about a 1998 accessory may get you nothing but blank stares.

Another vote here for Genuine Subaru pad kits. As Emily mentioned, they don't squeel and they last longer. The kit includes the anti-squeel shims and the caliper slide grease, as well. Definately a case where "you get what you pay for".

We have a '98 Outback Limited and yes, that indicator light is also the push-button switch for putting the system into valet mode. Because the Subaru security system upgrade was a dealer-installed accessory for 1998, operating instructions for it were provided in an owner's manual insert that we were given when we took delivery of the car. (The upgrade kit, which is actually the alarm kit, came with the car and was listed on the window sticker, but the dealer installed the kit when the car arrived there after we ordered it). I would be surprised if parts for the security system upgrade were available separately since it was originally made as a kit.......let me know if you want me to fax you a copy of that owner's manual insert......

Yes, Rain-X is a product applied to the outside of the windshield to make water bead up. It improves wet-weather visability. But the application only lasts a short time; it looses effectiveness and causes the glass to "haze" over when wet. You may want to simply remove the remainder of the product with denatured alcohol first, followed by Windex.

Perhaps a previous owner applied Rain-X to the windshield. To remain effective, it has to be periodically re-applied. To remove the product completely, clean the glass with plenty of denatured alcohol and paper towels. Then use Windex to remove any remaining "haze".

Just read the second paragraph in the article: "The Kia Amanti was the top-ranked "Premium midsize car" in the survey and the Kia Sportage was the top-ranked "Entry SUV." (The discontinued Pontiac Aztek placed third, after the Nissan Xterra, in the "Entry SUV" category.)" This paragraph alone should be enough of a hint about how warped this data is to begin with. Who comes up with this nonsense?

Nipper, I don't think that's correct. What's on the sidewall of a tire is the maximum amount of air that the tire should safely hold, no matter what kind of car that tire is installed on. You should adhere to the pressures shown on the label that the manufacturer applies to the vehicle (at least, if you're installing original-size tires). As GBHRPS indicates in a previous post, manufacturers do a considerable amount of research to determine the tire pressure that provides the best combination of safety, handling, ride characteristics, and tire life for that particular vehicle. I do see, however, that the latest trend seems to be to inflate the tires a little bit over the manufacturer's recommendations to save fuel. But I still firmly believe that the number cast into the sidewall of a tire is only a maximum for that tire.

OK, I'll buy that. Now that you mention it, this makes sense because we have the 15 inch wheels on our 98 Outback and the 16 inch wheels (with lower profile tires) on the '99 Legacy GT and the tachometer on both vehicles reads about the same at 70 mph.

One more thing you might consider before moving to larger diameter wheels: the ECM is programmed for 15 inch wheels. What will happen when the ECM "sees" a different number of wheel rotations per mile? And then there's the speedometer.......it won't read correctly, either.

There are "up-stop" brackets bolted to the upper area of the door "shell" --one near the front edge of the door shell; one near the rear. Sounds like the rear upstop bracket is adjusted too low, causing the glass to stop before it reaches the top of it's travel within the window opening.

Owner's manual of our '98 Outback and our '99 Legacy GT call for "inspect valve clearance" at 105K for 49-state vehicles. I'm contemplating how to deal with this on our cars now. I've heard about this "special tool" and I can't picture how anyone can do that kind of work in the confines of the engine compartment. I replaced the outer and inner rocker cover gaskets and bolt washers recently on these 2 cars and that alone was challanging enough (in terms of lack of space to work in...) I'm assuming that the valve adjustment procedure is done from under the vehicle if one tries it with the engine still in the car.........

You'll probably save a considerable amount by going to 1stsubaruparts.com They're actually a Subaru dealer in Washington. There's a toll-free number listed on the website; you can contact one of the parts counter-people and specify that you want to purchase parts thru 1stsubaruparts.com They will look up the part for you. Great service. Yes, there's a shipping fee, but you'll still save bucks.

Other than buying one of those aftermarket license plate frames to slightly "stiffen" the tag, it is the way it is. I can see your point about "fitting the curvature of the bumper". If it's any consolation, Subaru (as well as other manufacturers) have done front license plate mounting that way for years, now. Typically, there are two tiny "dimples" cast into the front bumper cover where you're supposed to force the self-tapping bolts in with a drill-driver.