Stevo F

One big like for my new 2014 Impreza is with the CVT I am getting 32- 33 MPG on my 80 mile round trip commute which rivals what my 2007 Corolla used ot get. But this car is always in AWD, is heavier (which holds the road and outhandles the Corolla). Dislike about this car is it seems complicated, not as easy to work on.

I was thinking of getting a basic scanner like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I5KOU3KZ6JLQ Unfortunately my phone (LG840) is just a Tracfone and won't run Android apps.

Actually the exhaust heat shields rattled like crazy when I first got the car. I stuck pieces of coat hanger in them and they haven't made a peep since. I listened to the noise again, it's not terribly loud, but noticeable if you stand in front of the car. I pulled the drive belts and it didn't go away, so it's in the engine somewhere.

I reset the ECU again and the CEL, and the previous high idle/ hard start and no CEL issue are apparently gone. I'll go ahead and get a code reader for if the CEL comes back.

Timing belt was last done 12K miles ago. Idlers, seals, water pump were all done at that time (right after we bought it since I didn't know when the timing belt had last been changed). I feel I've heard the noise before, but it's noticeably louder now. I feel it is coming from the drivers side timing cover area, but I may pull off the drive belts to eliminate the A/C compressor or idler pulley from being the culprit.

1998 legacy L, EJ22 engine, 4EAT transmission, 103K miles. My son has been driving the Legacy for the past couple of months back and forth to school. One thing I need to do is replace the front driver's side caliper (the brakes are running hot), but couldn't break loose the upper caliper bolt, so we took it over to a friend who runs a garage and they broke loose the bolts and snugged them back up last Monday, so I can get to the caliper this weekend. No problem there. Then this morning my son tells me that car feels a little jerky when he is braking (he says it like it's changing gears). I figure maybe the caliper's a little loose and I'll take of it tomorrow anyway. Then there's more... when he got home tonight my son pointed out that sometimes the engine doesn't catch right away when you crank it (sounds like like it's half starting for a couple of seconds) then it fires up and runs OK... Then when I tried starting it again to duplicate the not catching right away issue I noticed the idle won't go below 1,500 RPM even at operating temperate. I wonder if that's related to the starting glitch? I checked under the hood to make sure all vacuum lines looked OK. My son told me all of this started Monday after we had the caliper bolts loosened (and they were never under the hood). But wait, there's more. When I was poking around under the hood I could hear a pretty noticeable ratting coming from somewhere on the driver's side front of the engine. It's not rhythmic (like a bearing noise that is timed with the engine) but the rattle is irregular. What the heck is happening with this car? Not blaming my 17 year son for any of it, but I miss driving it everyday where i would notice any irregularities right away. There were CEL's then , but I decided to do an ECU reset. Afterwards, the engine seems to start and run normally. While resetting all of the stuff on the radio, it threw a CEL (which stayed on after multiple restarts). I need to get an OBD2 code reader I guess. Actually I few weeks ago my son got a CEL, but it went away and didn't return until after the ECU reset

Seems like it's always deer season around here (central VA)- just a bit more in the Fall. I will also recommend an alignment as that will point out if you have any suspension damage. Also looks your car has good ground clearance, which i'm sure helped. Our '98 Legacy and new Impreza sit so low (too low for me personally).

I'd buy it for that price. I test drove one exactly like it last year (only 93K miles) and it had issues with the lights, ABS light on, and torque bind and the used car place wanted $3,900. As soon as I felt the torque bind I walked.

If the low vehicle is also an issue I can understand (I have a 2014 Impreza also) and I think the car is too low, at least for me personally. I've seen where spacers can be installed at the top of the struts to give 1" or more additional ride height. I'm thinking of going that route sometime myself- just not sure I'm up to doing the work myself.

Do most tire shops to resurfacing or shaving of tires, or is that only certain places that have the equipment. Our local tire shop can barely handle repairing tires, let alone something as precise as that.

As for the purge valve, I had accidentally broken off the one on our '98 Legacy. The issue that it caused was hard starting right after I filled up the tank, but so issues with actually filling the tank, so I agree that is not a correct diagnosis of your problem.

We picked up our 2005 Outback Sport for a reasonable price. The N/A EJ25 still has enough power to get around and is still a simple engine to work on. I believe there were fewer (although still some) headgasket issues starting in 2004- 2005 than in 2002- 2003. I know what you mean about the newer ones being way too complicated. The electronics on our new 2014 Impreza kind of scare me.

Thank you- Are you tihnking of this set? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2013-2014-Subaru-Impreza-LED-Fog-Lamp-Driving-Light-Kit-Set-sedan-hatchback-/321444642860?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2014%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item4ad798002c&vxp=mtr If I get these, I still will need the relay and the replacement lower dash panel with the switch for driving lights. I assume I can still get these separately, outside of the complete kit that Subaru sells

Thinking about getting the driving light install kit for my new Impreza. Wondering if they'll do a lot of good for me. Looks like since they illuminate the area right in front of you better, they may be better for driving in fog or falling snow (where high beams just reflect back at you). My biggest issue with night driving (and will soon be doing a lot more of that with the days getting shorter) is all the deer we have around here- not sure it would help me see them better. In any case I like the look of the lights mounted on the car (vs. the blank that's installed in the holes for them now)- just not sure it's worth $270 unless they improve visibility.

I read a lot of good reviews for the Subaru Extra S oil, so I ordered for 4 quarts from Fred Bean- hopefully be here early next week and I'll give it a shot.

I've thought about the oil (also back when it was grinding a bit in 4th). I'll likely go ahead and replace it since it is probably a needed maintenance anyway. It was not better driving to work today, really. No issues until pulling into the parking lot at work- had the clutch in while slowly going around a turn (getting around some goof who parked a semi in the road)-it didn't want to to go into second at all and ground a little when I pushed it in a little harder than it wanted. Does the Subaru Extra S oil generally help for smoother shifting, or if the synchros are getting a little wanky? I've also heard people recommended the GM Synchromesh "Friction Modified" ol as well.

That's the fog light surround- I think it only has some clips that hold it in.

I rechecked the fluid levels to make sure. Clutch is fluid is good (I recently changed it out as the old stuff was nasty). The transmission oil looks clean (not sure when last changed as I've only the car for 7 months) and is up to full. I did have an issue a few months back where I would get some gear grinding going into fourth. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal so it engages the clutch a little more and that problem went away. Thinking it might be a linkage issue, tonight I popped off the surround around the shifter and removed the shift knob and boot. I lubricate the pivot point of the shifter. It now feels a little easier to shift (I drove it around the neighborhood a couple of times shifting between 2nd and 3rd a lot), but I'm not sure something still won't start binding again. I guess I'll try driving it on the 80 mile round trip commute tomorrow and see how it does.

I driving our 2005 Outback Sport with 5 speed manual around today and felt it was getting harder to shift into various gears (especially 1st and 2nd). It got so bad by the time I turned into our street to go home, that it wouldn't go into any gear easily so I coasted it on into the garage. A few minutes later, it shifted smoothly through the gears. There was no grinding or any other issues once it went into gear- it just is taking a lot of force to shift. My thought is that it's an issue with the shift linkage- is there periodic lubrication of the linkage needed, and if so, how is it done?

I used to run our '94 Legacy on 10W-30 or 10W-40, Nowadays I run our '98 & '05 Subies on 5W-30 only.

I would avoid places like Advance Auto or Autozone for electrical (especially remanufactured) parts. I usually order stuff like that from Rock Auto (many difference decent brands available and reasonable prices).

I use the term "flush" the brake lines interchangeably. I use a one man a vacuum brake bleeder (about $30- nothing special) so I don't have to have to bother anyone to pump the pedal. t have

I'd try http://www.car-part.com to look up used engines, but you may have have to travel to find a decent one.The closest I saw to you was one with 245K miles in Ruckersville and they want $600 (sounds too high for that many miles). Not sure how many good 2.2's are around locally (I'm in Culpeper). There was a guy in Harrisonburg selling what sounded like a decent one for $400 on Craig's list a few months back but I imagine he sold it by now. You could also look at used 2.5's but most of those are probably being junked because of headgaskets (like all of the Outbacks I see cheap on Craig's list).

Make sure you do a full ECU reset when you disconnect the battery. Leave it disconnected for 30 minutes or more and push the brake pedal a few times during that time (that should make sure the power is drained from everything before you hook thee battery back up again)

I used whatever brand DOT 3/ 4 clear brake fluid in everything we have (I've used Valvoline and Prestone- around 5- $6 per quart). 1 quart should be enough to bleed out most of the old fluid in most cars. I usually start at the rear (farthest from the master cylinder and work my way closest). Just make sure the mater cylinder doesn't suck in any air. i did that a few months ago on the '98 Legacy. Bled the air out and brakes feel fine now, but ABS brakes are locking on dry pavement so maybe some air still in the ABS pump?