Stevo F

I PM'd you

If they're known to be in working condition I might take you up on that.

I rechecked battery voltage on my old voltmeter. It read 12.2 volts not running, 13.2 volts running. I checked AC voltage it was 25 volts not running and 30 volts running. That seemed crazy (maybe the old voltmeter is FUBAR). Also, as a comparison I checked the same on my '98 Legacy wagon- It read 12.5 volts not running, 13.7 volts running. I checked AC voltage it was 25 volts not running and 30 volts running- definitely suspect an issue with the voltmeter with those AC readings.

Battery is only 3 or 4 months old.

Thinking of picking up an IACV but $230 new- Rock Auto, or $65 used- Ebay. I removed the solenoid portion from the top of the IACV, and the shaft for the valve moved smoothly back and forth, so it doesn't seem dirty, which makes me think maybe the solenoid itself is bad. I could take that part off my wagon and try it on the GT IACV, but hate pulling parts from a perfectly good running car to experiment on another car.

The power steering pump spun freely with the belt off. I think the whine could be coming from either the alternator or power steering. but not very load, and I doubt either would throw off the idle. The IACV hose is in good shape and connected with clamps. I also checked the operation of the vale in the IACV and it moves smoothly.

My 1997 Legacy GT (with '95 EJ22 engine) has been idling poorly lately- fluctuating, lower and rougher idle and a resonating noise coming through the intake. It has also thrown a couple of P0505 codes which makes the IACV suspect, but the IACV valve opens and closes smoothly. Then today I pulled the alternator belt as I've been hearing a bit od whine from the engine and was trying to isolate it. When I started the car, the idle was normal and smooth. I restarted it several times (until the battery died) and the same result. So maybe a grounding issue, or maybe the alternator is overcharging (voltage too high), maybe ECU is heading south? I did check battery voltage and it was right around 12 volts with the engine off and around 13.5 volts with it running (I have an old dial type voltmeter so it's a bit hard to read) I know the alternator is doing its job because 3 starts without it hooked up killed the battery pretty quickly. Here's a video clip- first with it running well with the belt off, then running poorly with the belt back on:

I had an Impreza Outback Sport from northern PA where the backing plates crumbled apart in my hand. Just removed the bad parts of rust and bent the rest of it away from rubbing against the rotor

Are sure the fuel is really good? Does it smell clean or a sicky sweet smell? 10 months (assuming fuel was fresh was car last ran) seems like a stretch without using fuel stabilizer.

I've heard where the redesigned pistons on the '97- '98 EJ22 had shorter skirts, hence greater chance of piston slap than '96 and earlier EJ22's. The EJ22 in my '98 wagon has always had a soft tap that goes away when the engine is warm, so I have attributed this to piston slap. The'95 EJ22 in our recently acquired '97 GT doesn't make this noise.

I'm still chasing around the idle idle issues on the '95 EJ22 that is sitting in my '97 LGT. Ran fine previously, installed a '95 air tube (for improved airflow over the '97 resonator) and noticed the weird noise coming from the air tube along with slightly erratic idle. I figured I messed up a vacuum line connection somewhere, so I double checked the connections on my '98 wagon (where I also installed a '95 air tube) and everything was connected tight and correctly. I also replaced the original air tube and it still had the same symptoms). I then pulled a P0505 code and the engine ran rough, like the ECU put it in limp mode. Cleared it and didn't come back for a while. I also installed new spark plugs (gapped around .43), new NGK wires and did the MSD coil mod, but no change. I also replaced the PCV valve. Now it's getting P0505 most anytime the car is started. The idle actually doesn't get any rough but a lot more erratic. I'll clear the code and it will smooth out somewhat, but idle still fluctuates, especially when in park. Does this sound like I just need to remove and clean the IACV? Maybe an electrical problem? I've also checked for any loose or broken vacuum lines and replaced a couple of dried out lines. I hate to take it to the mechanic, but can't really drive it when it's acting like this, so I'd love to fix it myself. I did another video of the noise it's making plus the erratic idle for your listening pleasure :

My 2014 Impreza windshield cracked from the lower edge the first winter I had it when I ran the defroster on a very cold morning. I did see a small chip in the middle of it so I assume it was impacted earlier by something (I've had those rocks come from nowhere too- just the other day again,likely kicked up by somebody ahead of me). the heat applied to the cold glass stressed it enough to form the crack. Luckily insurance covered the entire thing (I have $0 deductible comprehensive) which i believe was $800, but I didn't have Eyesight to worry about. In general, windshields are lot weaker on the edges- I've seen rocks smack the center but no issues.

Assuming both are wagons, they should fit.

No improvement with spraying the MAF cleaner a few times (actually smells just like the electrical contact cleaner I have). I should probably throw a new set of double platinum or iridium plugs in.

Spark plugs were in the car when i got it. I pulled one and it had normal deposits. Wires are new NGK wires. Made the same rumbling noise in the intake with either new MSD coil or older OEM coil. Oil was just changed (after the noise started). Not really concerned with the tick as much. I think it sounds louder in the video because I had my phone near the valve covers. Tick is no worse on this car than my other EJ equipped Subaru's. Might be worth throwing a new set of plugs in, but I plan to get some MAF cleaner tomorrow and see if that helps at all.

Pretty much hearing it from under the hood at idle along with somewhat erratic idle speed.You can hear it from the intake tube. No CEL's except a P0505 a couple of times. I posted a video where you can hear the sound

Actually plug wires and coil are (NGK wires & MSD coil) They made no difference, What also concerns me is the noise that comes through the intake pipe when it misses- weird!

Figured out the no start- The wire connector wasn't firmly plugged into the coil so it starts and runs again. What is weird is the miss I am hearing at idle. Actually it is making a resonating noise that's going through the air tube. Also, the idle is uneven, with RPM's fluctuating a bit. I had previously gotten the P0505 IACV code but that hasn't returned. I first noticed this miss/ resonating noise after I changed to the '95 air tube. At the same time, I attempted to change out the air box to the '95 box, but the intake hole was smaller, so put the '97 box with the MAF back on. I rechecked how the vacuum lines were installed and a couple were switched around so i copied the way that are connected to the '95 air tube i installed in my '98 wagon a few years ago, but still the miss For kicks, I swapped in a spare MAF that came with a bunch of Outback parts I acquired a few months ago. If anything the car idles even worse now which makes me think maybe the MAF needs a good cleaning, which I will try to do with my original before reinstalling it. What is the best method to clean the MAF?

The hose is connected (and I added a clamp where it attached to the new intake tube as well. I thought of the IACV valve as the cause (especially since it's thrown a coupe, of codes now), but I'm not sure if a dirty or bad IACV would cause a no start situation like I'm now experiencing.

I decided to do a couple of the same mods to the '95 EJ22 in our most recently acquired 1997 Legacy GT. Similar to what I did with our '98 Legacy EJ22 wagon, I swapped the air tube resonator for the earlier style '95 air tube (less air restriction). The vacuum lines all install pretty much the same way and it ran fine afterwards, although the idle might have been a light rougher (attributed it to the ECU needing the relearn the difference in air flow). Drove fine a couple of weeks then last weekend we were going to have my son drive the car on a longish trip and the car idled rough and got a CEL. I checked the connections (especially the large hose to the IACV) and all looked good, but I swapped the originally air tube back on and cleared the code. The car has a bit of miss at idle (almost has a rumbling sound coming from below the engine when it misses). Also idle is a little erratic. I went ahead reinstalled the '95 air tube and installed the MSD coil- no real differences or improvements in the way it runs. My son drove it about 40+miles for a driving lesson yesterday and it drove fine I also played around a little with the TPS adjustment to try to up the idle speed a bit, which may have improved the idle speed a little. Then this morning my wife went to take it to work and no start at all. The engine cranks and when it ties to catch the engine shakes quite a bit. It feels like some sort of misfire. I tried to read any codes from it and did come up with the P0505 IACV code again. I cleared it, but it does the same thing when you try to start it. (I wouldn't think IACV issues would cause a no start situation anyway). So I'm thinking some of the recent work done on it is the cause- is the the MSD coil defective possibly- seemed to work fine at first. Totally unrelated but could it have jumped timing? (timing belt and idlers replaced 30K something miles ago when P.O. swapped the EJ22 in). Should whatever happened be throwing a code? (I'm not reading any new ones).

Yes I did buy new rotors and pads- but thinking of trying the left foot dragging procedure before I pull the old ones off- I guess it couldn't hurt at this point

I like the idea of a less restrictive intake tube. I'm not sure what year car this is, oer what your original intake system is like, but I like using the '95- '96 EJ22 intake pipe on my later '97 & '98 Legacy's because it is less restrictive. This along with the MSD coil mod gave my '98 wagon 2- 3 more MPG. Actually going to do the same 2 mods to my '97 GT with EJ22 this weekend.

Once headgaskets go, they will likely fail again unless the heads and deck were checked for warpage and machined if needed. Less likely to fail repeatedly on an EJ22. The 4EAT transmissions are generally pretty solid as well.I have '98 Leagacy with an EJ22 with 129K miles that I'm hoping to still be driving at 300K.

Right after buying our '98 GT, I found you had the hold the key in start for a few seconds if the engine was cold, but no problem if it was warm. The previous had put a junk Autozone starter on it a year earlier, but I ordered a Denso remanufactured starter and have had no problems since.

I've seen other cars warp by 40K miles and I never ride the brakes, or use them excessively (I use them to come to a stop and that's about it). I agree it's most likely the front ones only since they do the majority of the work and build up more heat. I'll definitely check the slide pins for free movement and check everything else over.