Pasta

Thanks Texan, perfect.

I've wondered about that, Rooster2. A concern would be the high water pressure forcing water into places it shouldn't be (around gaskets or onto electrical boards or something?). Was also concerned about splashing cold water onto a hot engine, but I guess that happens when driving in the rain. Maybe I'll give it a try sometime...the driveway will be a lot cleaner

Didn't know it was going to post the Youtube link like that. Sorry, hopefully I didn't break any fourm guidance. Please let me know if that is okay or if I need to remove it.

Hi everyone, Purchased an 05 OBW recently. The leaking HGs and torn CV boot were repaired, but plenty of oil and grease cooked and caked over parts of the bottom of the engine, AT pan, and filter. Tried the Gunk Heavy Duty Gel. The can says to protect electrical components, but this video by Gunk says it is safe on electrical: I did not protect the electrical. Sprayed on a cold engine, waited almost 10 min followed by a thorough rinsing from below, then from the top of the engine to rinse off anything that may have splashed up. It did a fantastic job -- surprised how clean it is. No problems yesterday or today with the car or electrical system. Hopefully this info helps somebody

My Autozone has a lot,but none labeled for Subaru. Will keep looking at some of the other area stores mentioned above. Maybe I'll take one of the "tabs/clips/captive nuts" there and try to match that way. Thanks for the tips, everyone. Hopefully the post helps others, too.

Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148956-power-steering-flush-procedure/ I've done it on both of our Subaru's. You dont have to start the vehicle. Good luck, it is pretty easy.

Thanks Forester2002s and Rooster2. Good tips. Will probably do the zip-tie trick. If anyone knows the comparable Ford/GM/whatever size that works in the Soob, please post.

Hi all, Not sure what they're called and can't find any threads on USMB. But I'm talking about those plastic, Christmas-tree-looking pins that expand and hold the plastic shield in place in front of the vehicle under the radiator. The stealership wants something like $3 or $4 each! Don'g mean to sound cheap...it's only a couple bucks, and only 3 are needed, but it feels like such a rip-off! Went to a couple big box stores this morning. They had ones for Ford, GM, and Toyota (container of about 8 for $6.00). None for Subaru. Took a guess and it was too small. Tried using zip-ties, but that did not work out b/c some areas had nothing to wrap it around. Anyone know the sizing (or where I can look it up) of these retaining pins and/or where I can get some? Thanks, Pasta

You can see a picture of the boots here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH0/16055/01259.oap?year=2005&make=Subaru&model=Outback&vi=1430734&ck=Search_brake+guide+pin_01259_1430734_2894&keyword=brake+guide+pin&pt=01259&ppt=C0064 the small ones were torn, causing reduced motion and difficult removal. Also, it looked like they were lubricated with anti-sieze instead of brake grease. Could that have caused the rubber to break down?

Hi All, Decided to grease the brake caliper guide pins before starting a brake bleed on a ‘new to me’ 05 OBW earlier today. Removal of the bottom guide pin on both front wheels was extremely difficult. This bottom pin is different from the top -- in addition to the main rubber boot, there is an additional small boot that stays snug against the bottom of the pin. This boot was torn and limiting movement of the pin. I think the boots on the vehicle were aftermarket. I replaced them with aftermarket because the dealer is too far away and I was running out of time to get the job done. Once replaced and greased, the pins were moving *much* better. However, when the brakes eventually need replaced, will also replace the guide pin boots with an OEM kit. Just wanted to make a recommendation to get OEM brake caliper guide pin boots if you ever need to do it. The aftermarket ones on my car and the ones I bought seem cheaper and likely to tear again. When bleeding the brakes today, I possibly over-tightened the bleeder valves and am now worried about it. Will be closely monitoring brake fluid level, and looking for leaks over the next several days. Is this common… could there be damage? Any recommendations? Thanks, Pasta

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the forum! Lots of really smart and helpful people here. Most of my questions are answered by lurking in the search bar. I've owned 4 other makes of cars and the Soob is easiest to work on. Safe travels back to WA!

I had similar symptoms on a recently purchased 05 OBW. Turned out to be a transmission mount. lstevens told me to jack up the front end - stick a pry bar between the transmission and the transmission mount and flex it. That reproduced the 'squeak' and I could see the torn rubber. He stopped over the house yesterday and we swapped it out...much easier than I thought. Thanks lstevens, problem solved!

What a story! Glad you're not injured. These cars are tanks, aren't they?

Great advice, thank you! I will PM you later in the afternoon.

Hi Everyone, First of all, Happy Father's Day to all the Dad's out there Second, If there is another thread here that addresses this: please post--couldn't find one addressing this specifically and dont want everyone to have to repeat themselves. Looking to purchase 1998 Legacy Wagon. 4cyl. 164k miles. Asking only $1200 Owner disclosed a leaking HG. States it overheated "1 time" (of course, I dont know if that's true). Says he keeps close eye on the levels and no overheating since. New radiator. No other leaking fluids/other issues. Selling it b/c has 4 vehicles and does not want them all anymore. *Question 1: what is the liklihood of the Heads needing replaced vs. resurfaced? *Question 2: For those who have had a resurfacing, what did you pay? Will also have the timing belt/water pump, etc done while they are in there. I'm expecting this to cost around $1500-2000? *Question 3: how can I evaluate for signs there is damage? It is my understanding that the danger of a leaking HG is that the engine could overheat from low coolant and cause engine damage. Are there any other reasons a leaking HG would be dangerous? Thanks for your help...on a budget and need a reliable vehicle. We are very happy with my wife's 09 Forester. Pasta

Hello all, Found a good one...Mike's Boise Clutch and Auto. My experiences there with both cars have been excellent.

Didn't get to it this weekend, hopefully next weekend..

Great. Will try to get at this tomorrow afternoon. Will keep you all updated...

Okay everyone, you've helped on numerous DIY fixes and saved me thousands in labor costs. First Soob, purchased last summer. 2009 Forester Limited (Guessing it's the EJ 25 engine, but can't find any identifiers). 71k miles. Can't find this topic searching the forum. Went to change the spark plugs and noticed oil in the tubes - okay, replace tube seals and cover gaskets. But I cannot get to the lower corner bolt on the driver side, closest to the dash. Internet research shows guys doing a partial lift of the engine to gain a couple inches of room. They claim with a floor jack, 2x4 block, and 5 minutes one can easily lift the engine enough and gain access to this bolt. My skill level is probably "Medium"...maintain the family vehicles, but not nearly as experienced as many of you. I need some help...I know I can do this...I just need someone to explain it in simple terms. Can someone please explain HOW to partially lift this engine in simple terms? What nuts to loosen? Where are they located/how many? Where to put the jack? Do you recommend to lift the passenger side also? Thanks for your input. This is the last maintenance item to have the wifey's Soob up to date! Pasta (always lurking) P.S. is this considered "lifting" or "raising" the engine?

I had 3 mice in my Accord, turns out they were building a nest in the trunk spare wheel well with stuff throughout car and part of a rear seat belt. Here are my successful tips: . 1. Do a detailed cleaning of the entire interior. Get out all the tiny food pieces. 2. Put out 4 Victor mouse traps with peanut butter near the offending areas. I put one under each seat, one under driver brake pedal area, and one near the seat belt. 3. Even if you catch a mouse, keep putting the traps out there for a couple days. I caught 2 the first day, 0 the second, 1 the third day. 0 for the next 3 days. 4. Be sure to look for a nest somewhere in the vehicle. . Good Luck. Rather than purchase a new seat, consider just buying a seat cover...much cheaper. Let us know what worked for you.

HI everyone, I know USMB does not endorse vendors, and hopefully this post does not cross a line. If so, hopefully a moderator will remove the post. No bad intentions here...did not find an answer to this question in the vendor section. Regarding a "new to me" 2009 Forester with 69K miles. Went to replace the spark plugs this weekend and oil all over the plastic ignition wire covering. No oil leaking externally. Most likely spark plug tube seals are leaking, so I will also be replacing the valve cover gaskets (aka rocker cover gaskets?) (1) Anyhow, looking for recommendations where you all buy parts on-line. I've had my share of both good and bad vendors, and am hoping to avoid a pitfall here. This will also be helpful for future purchases such as oil & air filters, etc. The dealership wants $62.00 for the gaskets and tube seals. Seems like a lot to me. (2) should I also replace the ignition wires, or can I get away with just wiping them off real good with an old T-shirt or shop towels? So, if it is not against the integrity of the USMB, would like to know where you've had good experiences buying parts for your Subarus. Thanks! Pasta

Hi Belitsky, Welcome to the forum. There are plenty of good threads on this site and other forums that discuss the head gasket issue. Apparently, it was pretty common in previous generations until 2008 or 2009. From what I gather (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), if the HG was replaced recently, and you use the proper coolant, then the problem is solved. Also see the #11 post above from Miles Fox. If the Soob you are looking at has 100k miles and had the tune-up, you may be better off than one with 80-90k miles that still needs the service. We are extremely happy with our purchase. Having never driven an AWD vehicle before, I was surprised at the responsive handling and associated feeling of stability/safety. 2 weeks ago, we went to Yellowstone NP and the Grand Tetons NP. The vehicle performed beautifully up steep hills with sharp turns. There are places along the roads to pull over and look at wildlife, some of them gravel areas at rather steep/awkward angles. I have minimal experience driving off roads, but never once passed up an opportunity to pull over for fear of the terrain. I certainly cannot say that if we were in my Honda Accord. We did a mini-survey, and the most common vehicle we saw with Wyoming tags was the Subaru. I can see why, ours performed flawlessly and there will probably always be one in our family. I am originally from SW Pennsylvania and know that you are no stranger to shoveling snow in California, PA. Best wishes in your search for a new vehicle. Again, spend a couple hours on the forums, there is an unbelievable amount of information here, and there are plenty of threads that will answer any possible quesiton you could have on the HG issue...probably too much info : ) Good luck and keep us posted on your progress, the members here are very knowledgeable, professional, and patient. Best, Pasta

Thanks for your thoughts, everyone. This "new to me" Forester has almost 68K and needs to last my family a very, very long time. I want to take the absolute best care of it possible. We live in Idaho and mountain driving is fairly common. A friend of mine just told me Prestone DOT 4 synthetic has the highest boiling point he can find. It probably is overkill, and "big-box brand" DOT 3 will probably suffice just fine (that is what the owner's manual calls for), and I may spend a couple extra bucks for nothing, but the peace of mind will be worth it in the long run. If anyone else out there has a favorite, please respond with the name you like best and why you like it. Thanks!!!

Steve-o's method worked great! 1 hour start to finish. 1. Front of car on jack stands 2. Turkey baster with 7/16 OD / 5/16" ID clear tubing to suck out old fluid from reservoir. Fill reservoir with Valvoline Max Life synthetic ATF 3. Disconnect PS return line and attach 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID clear tubing (couldn't find a hose clamp to secure, so used a zip-tie) 4. My 10 year old daughter was in the car turning the wheel Left/Right. I caught the fluid in an old can 5. Just keep the reservoir full as the helper turns the wheel. 6. At 2 quarts, beautiful, clean red ATF was coming out of the return line! Maybe I was biased, but it felt like the steering was noticeably easier on the test-drive. Thanks for your advice, everyone. This was an easy maintenance. Anyone can do it with a helper. I hope this write-up helps others.

Good advice, everyone. johnc, taking the PS belt off seems too intimidating for me. I just cant do that on my own right now. I think Steve-o's method seems the safest. Going to go try it now. Will let you all know how it goes. Thanks.