
nebmaster
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Battery and alternator cables are new, replaced with nice ones about six months ago. The continuity chech on the ignition switch went good, ditto for any obvious opens/shorts on the starter. I suspected the fuel pump relay first myself, but I don't see how it could cause the whole car to loose power like this...Fuel filter was also changed recently as well...
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Okay, just got back from front yard. Jumpstarting at first did nothing, but about five seconds after I disconnected the jump starter, I noticed the headlights had come on (Key 2nd click) Got in car and it started no problem, however several seconds later, the motor died and all of the electronics went. Did this again, and after cranking for 10~15 seconds (with no results) the car suddenly started again, ran for a minute, and then died... This is the weirdest problem I have yet encountered with my car...
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Interesting...Went outside to move car off the street after last stalling incident and the car has no power to any circuit that is not wired external of the car's stock electrical system. Battery reads 12.8v, no crank, and I can't even get the transmission interlock out. What could cause power to the car to die intermittently like this? Perhaps this is happening just momentarily when the car sputters or stalls, and then correcting itself...what should I test?
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Just test drove the car again after work, since it was night and there was little traffic. It appears that the engine stalling is the only electrical system affected. The headlights, A/C blower, and everything else just keep right on going. It's as if I had just turned the key off. I tried jiggling the key around while cruising to see if it may be a worn ignition switch, but this does not recreate the problem. The coil pack is an oem new replacement, only about a year and a half old. Other than that, I'm at a loss...I kinda want to suspect the fuel pump relay or the ignition relay (because of the clicking noise as the car dies...) but I'm not really sure how to test these (or even where they are located...but the click seems to be coming from behind the dash...) Help would be appreciated if anyone has any ideas. Hopefully I won't have to crater and go to a mechanic. Thanks in advance guys (and gals)
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This crossed my mind, but the voltmeter on the cap on my audio system has always read higher than 13.5 volts with the engine on, and 12.6 on just the battery. It's hard to glance back there when I stall, but the battery and all of the terminals on the battery and alternator have been replaced recently with high performance parts, leading me to believe that the problem is further down the electrical system.