
nebmaster
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Battery and alternator cables are new, replaced with nice ones about six months ago. The continuity chech on the ignition switch went good, ditto for any obvious opens/shorts on the starter. I suspected the fuel pump relay first myself, but I don't see how it could cause the whole car to loose power like this...Fuel filter was also changed recently as well...
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Okay, just got back from front yard. Jumpstarting at first did nothing, but about five seconds after I disconnected the jump starter, I noticed the headlights had come on (Key 2nd click) Got in car and it started no problem, however several seconds later, the motor died and all of the electronics went. Did this again, and after cranking for 10~15 seconds (with no results) the car suddenly started again, ran for a minute, and then died... This is the weirdest problem I have yet encountered with my car...
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Interesting...Went outside to move car off the street after last stalling incident and the car has no power to any circuit that is not wired external of the car's stock electrical system. Battery reads 12.8v, no crank, and I can't even get the transmission interlock out. What could cause power to the car to die intermittently like this? Perhaps this is happening just momentarily when the car sputters or stalls, and then correcting itself...what should I test?
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Just test drove the car again after work, since it was night and there was little traffic. It appears that the engine stalling is the only electrical system affected. The headlights, A/C blower, and everything else just keep right on going. It's as if I had just turned the key off. I tried jiggling the key around while cruising to see if it may be a worn ignition switch, but this does not recreate the problem. The coil pack is an oem new replacement, only about a year and a half old. Other than that, I'm at a loss...I kinda want to suspect the fuel pump relay or the ignition relay (because of the clicking noise as the car dies...) but I'm not really sure how to test these (or even where they are located...but the click seems to be coming from behind the dash...) Help would be appreciated if anyone has any ideas. Hopefully I won't have to crater and go to a mechanic. Thanks in advance guys (and gals)
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This crossed my mind, but the voltmeter on the cap on my audio system has always read higher than 13.5 volts with the engine on, and 12.6 on just the battery. It's hard to glance back there when I stall, but the battery and all of the terminals on the battery and alternator have been replaced recently with high performance parts, leading me to believe that the problem is further down the electrical system.
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My 96 legacy 2.2L with 190k developed a weird stalling problem when I was headed home from work last night. The car would for no apparent reason sputter out, and then immediately regain power, or die. I got home okay (interesting experience on the Houston freeways...) but when I drove the car again this morning, the problem had not gone away. When it happens, both the ABS and the AT Temp lights flash until the engine picks back up or dies, and I noticed this morning that I can hear a relay clicking whenever the problem occurs, leading me to believe it could be a bad relay. Beyond that, I really have no idea how to begin tackling this problem, so help is greatly appreciated...thanks in advance everyone.
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I did it this summer, it's really not that difficult at all (at least in a 1996 legacy.) I didn't take pics or anything, but if I recall, the best mounting location is in the lower left side of the door (when you are looking at it...) My kit used full sized actuators, so it was a bit of a squeeze, but it will fit. After you hook it all up, make sure you test it while the skin is still off the door to avoid trouble later. Best of luck.
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Josh, Thanks for all of the help so far. The invoice reads exactly as follows. N=New, R=Reconditioned/Rebuilt, U=Used 1 n Seal Oil Pan Gasket 232.60 1 n Rear Seal and Rear Cover 0.00 4 N Labor (rr) ( 296.52 Since he told me on the phone that there were gaskets left over in the set, I asked him for them when I came to the shop. He gave me the gaskets pictured above, all in an oil soaked cardboard box. The box was for a Fel-Pro "Oil Pan Set". It had my car listed on the back, and the part number OS 30656 C. A search of the Internet revealed that this part # usually sells for no more than ten dollars. So I'm pretty sure I got ripped off. I wrote him a letter demanding a refund of the difference in cost on these parts, sent certified mail of course. I guess I'll see what happens after that. Once again, thanks to everyone in advance.