jonathan909

Honestly, I just think you're grasping for obscure and unlikely use cases. I still think the desirability of being able to do what my daughter tried - to (un)lock with the key in the ignition - outweighs these weird examples you're offering. I just can't see the justification from a normal use, common sense perspective.

I'm not buying it. You can make all the same mistakes with the lock control on the door. Doesn't change the nature of the problem, just the location of the button.

No, it was actually pretty clean in there, and in the car it loaded the CD just fine, then sat for a while before delivering the Err 6. On the bench I spun the head positioner with my finger, and it traveled through its range, so about all that's left is to power it up and see if it appears to work normally. Other than cleaning the lens and reseating the cables, I don't think there's much else to be done.

That's what I'm thinking. I pulled it apart today and there's little that can be done by mere humans - cleaned the lens, reseated the ribbon cables, moved the head to make sure it's traveling freely. I have to dig up a connector on the next visit to the wrecker so I can at least see what it's trying to do on the bench. Unless some magic happens, though, I'll be fishing for a replacement - whole unit or maybe just the CD transport.

Okay, here's a question for you all: "The keyless entry system does not operate when the key is inserted in the ignition switch." I'm quoting from your owner's manual. Can anyone argue in favour of this design decision? We can't come up with a single reason for this being a good idea. Why on earth would they do it this way? This is now A Thing because in the dead of winter, at night, one of my girls left work, and en route home (about a mile from her starting point) she stopped to grab a jug of milk. Since it was very cold and the car had barely started, she didn't want to risk it not starting the second time, and left it running to let it warm up. She took the remote off of the keyring, pocketed it, and used the door switch to lock it up. Only when she returned with the milk did she discover that the remote in her pocket wouldn't work, and she was left standing outside a running car in -35. (There are possible workarounds, of course, but the most obvious one - disconnecting the key-in-lock wire at the ignition switch - has hair on it. Though it would also eliminate the very annoying door-open-key-in-ignition alarm, it would prevent further programming of the keyless entry system, which requires that signal. But in most of my cases that wouldn't matter, because they won't program in situ anyway; that's why I do them on the bench. The next most obvious fix is having both a spare key and your wits about you, which is a difficult operational mode to support.)

And repair even less likely (as if that were possible) now that the Toronto Clarion depot tells me that they can't fix this one because it's OEM, it has to go to a stateside outfit called United Radio.

Oh, no doubt there's tons of that stuff around. No use to me, I don't carry a tracking device (or like the sound of mp3s).

Agreed. I'm not really interested in the potential workarounds. The AM/FM/cassette (curiously enough, I rediscovered some great music I hadn't listened to in many years thanks to just grabbing a box of old tapes for a road trip - ever heard ZZ Top's "La Grange" sung in Russian?) are fine, it's just the fershlugginer CD that won't work. I'll bust open just about anything to take a look, clean it up, see if it's a simple fix, but I don't intend to make it my life's work. And I just heard back from the canuckside Clarion people: Their only service depot is in Toronto, which is a nonstarter (as if I'd be willing to pay the rates people have spoken of for the fix anyway).

Dredging up a very old thread here... I have the McIntosh, and am pretty happy with it - except for the error (Er 6) it spews on inserting a CD. Does anyone have any sort of reference information for these things, even if only the error code definitions? (Scoobywagon hasn't been around for five years.)

Hmm. That's interesting. Just programming up a couple of fobs for the H6 and ran into something I don't think I noticed when I did this a couple of years ago. It appears that to reset the fob-programming state machine you have to first unlock the doors. In practice, of course, this is a non-issue - in order to open the door and get in and go through the programming routine, the door must first be unlocked, and if you lock it after you get in you're violating the procedure as described. But on the bench it got stuck and wouldn't enter programming mode until I started the process with a (door switch) unlock.

Just an additional note here: In the 2001 OBW (mine are H6) the keyless entry module has been moved from under the instrument cluster to the far right of the dash, between the glove box and the door. The location isn't exactly clear from the FSM drawings. You have to remove the glove box to get at it, which should just be a few screws, but also requires mutilating the glove box stops that the manual casually tells you to remove first.

Laugh it up, folks. We woke up to 2" of wet snow this morning.

I have plenty of experience with trouble from ground loops and very small circulating (as in electrical, not liquid) currents, so I get what you're talking about. What's important is that these problems are almost always solved by selectively removing excess grounds, and never by tossing in a bunch of extra new ones without very carefully analyzing the problem, or you can often make it worse. More grounds means more possible paths for those circulating and stray currents, and in this case adding a location (i.e. the rad) for possible electrolysis and/or corrosion that didn't previously exist. In other words, let the rad float (electrically speaking) and it won't give you trouble, even if it is a few millivolts away from the engine. (If there are any vintage microcomputer geeks listening, a formative experience for me in solving this kind of thing was about 40 years ago, working with a client who was building an early GIS system - it had to do with potential oil spills. Their system had outgrown the original (10-slot S-100) North Star Horizon chassis thanks to a whack of Matrox graphic cards. So I migrated them into a big rackmount (22-slot) Cromemco Z2-D box, which also meant duplicating in wire-wrap the serial and parallel I/O that were on the Horizon's motherboard (unusual at the time, as most S-100 backplanes had no active circuitry other than (perhaps) termination). They needed a hard disk, and this being a few years prior to the introduction of the very first (Shugart) 5meg 5" Winchester, we were using a 15meg 8" drive - a Priam or something. That's the part that was giving them trouble - the disk just wouldn't settle down and behave reliably. Disk read amplifiers are quite sensitive to noise, and I traced the cause to a couple too many grounds in the disk system that had been added and/or neglected by the North Star designers. Once I'd had some time to stare at the whole picture, I took a reasonable guess at which grounds had to go, and when I removed them the noise disappeared and the system sprang to life - and gave them years of pretty impressive service.) So I'm still skeptical, but might be convinced if someone can direct me to any solid references on the subject describing this application.

I don't want to get into the weeds on this, but I'm not buying it. Lots of things get "mentioned" that are complete nonsense. The coolant is constantly circulating through the engine, so I think it's succeeding in keeping itself pretty damn grounded wrt the engine, regardless of whether the rad core is insulated from the chassis. I'd need to hear a pretty convincing argument to think otherwise.

Yes. Not saying that's the problem, just that it's a mechanical switch like any other, the contacts wear over time, and yours is really old.

Anything's possible, but the blink-of-an-eye outage smells electrical to me. Still, the "vibrates like hell and sounds like trash" could be momentarily running too lean, no? Any backfiring?

Rad: Fried by what? Rads aren't electrical any more than the hose running to your lawn sprinkler is. Yeah, you'll want to look seriously at wiring e.g. the ground you describe. [edit] And don't ignore the possibility that you could have a bad keyswitch. It's a single point of failure for the entire electrical system.

First of all, what the hell does a rad need grounds for? I get where you mean, but they're scattered elsewhere as well, e.g. on the shock towers (aren't they the two bolt heads I see peeking up there over the rim of the stamping? My '99 OBW has a couple there, on both sides.). But that CEL flash and the brief drop in revs? I'd be thinking bad ECU, maybe bad power. Investigate your relay box.

Man, something that random is going to be a b@st@rd to debug. I know this is a mantra, but there's a lot of truth to it: Bad grounds. Hunt them down and make sure they're all sound. Bad connectors - but you had the engine out and back in, so you've cycled a lot of them and they should be making good contact. You have a new alternator, so your power should be solid. Maybe a flaky ECU? Is the misbehaviour isolated to the engine, or are there any other peripheral symptoms?

Oh, my. "Random" - the word that strikes fear in the heart of anyone who's ever had to debug anything. I should know this, but is '93 pre-ODBII, meaning there are no diagnostics to be had? Fwiw, I don't think an oil drip is going to bother the crank sensor.

Aw... fuzzy...

Fair enough. As far as repairing the motor goes, it's pretty much like any DC motor, so both the brushes and commutator are going to wear and get dirty. So maybe it just needs a cleaning and a new set of brushes, but maybe the wear to the commutator is such that it has to be replaced, and then you're futzing with the windings, so this is all stuff best left to shops that specialize in... wait for it... motor rewinding. Sure, they used to do more of it here, but now it's a more disposable globalized society that doesn't want to pay North American rates for that kind of service, so "Mexico". While I'm certain you can find someone locally who does that, I doubt you're going to want to pay them some multiple of the cost of a new starter. Just how it is.

Of course - a big steel bolt passing through an aluminum spacer in an often-wet location. What could possibly go wrong?

Heh. Prolly right - might be easier to test while mounted on tank. Just have to cap a couple of tubes. Will try in the AM. Disgusted to discover fresh snow on the ground tonight... I'm so done with winter.

Well, I finally got the miserable sumbitch out of there... in the end it was the predicted "brute force and ignorance" So I've been busy today transplanting the necessary bits between old and new tank, repairing hacked wiring, and finally checking those two valves: The fuel cut valve and the vent valve. They're in the top rear of the tank, behind the seats and without access panels. So nothing's happening to them without dropping the tank, and I'd better get it right this time. The cut valve is easy to check: It's just a float, so poking from beneath or just inverting it closes it. Simple enough. The vent valve is harder. To quote the FSM: When the fuel vapor pressure becomes higher than the atmospheric pressure and overcomes the spring force which is applied to the back side of the diaphragm, the port toward the canister is opened . The vent valve also has a float which blocks the fuel vapor passage when the tank is filled up. Increasing fuel level raises the float to close the port toward the canister. So it responds to both tank pressure and fluid level. How the &@!! do I check this? I've got two of them, and they seem to behave the same ways when I suck+blow the external ports (not tryin' with the in-the-tank portion), so do I call that "good enough" and put it together?