jonathan909
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Everything posted by jonathan909
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Sorry - stupid me. '01 Forester. -
We've determined that all Foresters on Alberta highway #549 are cursed. After writing off two last year (deer), a moose ran my girls off the road on Friday. I just can't get a break (in the wrenching) with these things. Now I need a fender. So I looked up my VIN on vindecoderz.com , which is the best free online tool I've found so far (Question 1: Does anyone know a better one?), and it confirmed that I've got 8J6 - ROYAL SILVER M/GRAY paint. Now I'm plugging in the numbers from the wrecker's web site in an effort to find a match, but it's not returning the "additional information" section, where the paint info is. Question 2: Is the problem that the paint is in the last six ("sequential production") digits, and the detailed information on those is just not available anywhere? Question 3: Am I going about this all wrong? Question 4: Which years use the same panel?
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I'm sure I read something about that, or maybe one of my more credulous friends drew my attention to it... wasn't it more like a fermenter or coal gas generator that you fed wood into? Struck me at the time that you could do it that way, but you wouldn't be going very far very fast. Most certainly, but as I said, the oil companies are big, practical, profit-driven entities that would ditch oil and sell hamburgers if they saw more profit for their shareholders in it. Seriously, as the market for fossil hydrocarbon fuels slowly dies, they're rebranding themselves as "energy" companies and diversifying into wind and solar and hydrogen and anything else that'll keep the dividend cheques flowing. So they really couldn't care less about "oil" as a thing. In contrast, the gun lobby isn't just doctrinaire, it's obsessive and fanatical in a way that's not well understood anywhere else in the world. They aren't motivated by profit, logic, or common sense - just look at how they work to the detriment of their own constituency by absolutely refusing the CPSC jurisdiction over firearms (the only product sector so excluded). We could get into a discussion about the historical origins of this weird behaviour, but I think we're sufficiently OT already to try everyone's patience quite enough. So any parallels between the two industries fall apart really fast. Ah, I never bought into that five-hundred-mile-per-gallon-car-runs-on-water-and-dark-energy-but-big-oil-suppressed-it bu11$h!t. Strictly conspiracy-theorist nonsense, no different than any other perpetual-motion fantasy. The laws of thermodynamics still apply: You can't win. You can't break even. You can't get out of the game. If there'd been any substance to any of that crap, James Randi's million-dollar prize would have been claimed. But it wasn't, and it was retired with him after 30 years. Fun idea (and I hate to be a buzzkill), but I think about half an hour of back-of-the-envelope calculation would probably show why it wouldn't fly...
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Crimp butt splices are okay in a pinch, but they really don't have any place in building a proper harness. The tape you're talking about is self-fusing butyl rubber (same sort of stuff used for sealing windshields). You stretch it, then wrap it over itself, and it fuses into a single piece of rubber. I'm pretty fond of it because it doesn't leave any adhesive residue. The downside is that it's very soft and easy to chafe through, so you have to careful where you use it. And one of my earliest tool investments was a Panduit wire tie gun - it tensions the wire tie, then cuts it off cleanly, all in one pull of the trigger. You don't have to use one, but if you don't you'd better have a very good pair of flush cutters for cutting the free end off. There's a special place in hell reserved for people who don't, and instead leave sharp little stubs sticking out of the wire ties to lacerate the wrists of those who come later.
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Whoops - sorry!
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You shouldn't have to do that. The engine doesn't need to be running in order to clear codes via the ODBII port - you just need the key on.
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Should be okay - I dunno exactly where the electronics drop out, but that's a reasonable drop for cranking. As mentioned, easy enough to check. My only timing failure experience was a catastrophic one. I can see the crank and knock sensors complaining, but the others strike me as less directly related. That's where I'd be thinking about a wiring fault common to them, and the canonical answer tends to be "grounds".
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It would suggest that the power is good enough to crank. But at the same time, the voltage may be dropping low enough to create problems for the ECU, etc. You really want to get a meter on it.
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I wouldn't believe it either. Think about what all those things have in common, starting with bad power. I'd be looking at the battery, alternator, etc. If they're okay then the debugging starts.
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Well, nobody's threatening to come and pry your steering wheel out of your cold, dead hands - they don't have to. It's much more simple than that: Gas will simply be priced out of reach, then ultimately banned. You can keep as many big shiny metal planters as you want. This isn't like guns, where (Americans) have a (debatable) constitutional right to them. Nor is there a gas-guzzling-car equivalent of the NRA going to the wall to fight against end-run fuel restrictions, the automotive equivalent of the Brady bill. And the big petroleum companies are already showing signs of starting to divest of the worst of their hydrocarbon holdings i.e. the Alberta tar sands. They know what's coming down the pike, and if getting out of what is still their core business is what they have to do to preserve shareholder value, then get they will. As far as electric supercars go, I hope you caught the episode of The Grand Tour in which Richard Hammond wrecked the megabuck Croatian Rimac. He rolled it, then it burned for four days. Every time a battery cell blew, it set the next one alight, and they couldn't put it out. Just amazing.
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Dude, please. This has been discussed ad nauseum. You know what it is. You know where it is. It's not that hard. Just do it.
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Whew - that was a blowout rant. I'm not the slightest bit interested in getting into a knock-down-drag-out on the (WAY OT) subjects of peak oil, the growing environmental depredations associated with its extraction, and global warming here, but they're all real. And they're the pressures that are going to cause the effective extinction of the ICE - probably in my lifetime, but most certainly in that of my kids. Are electrics perfect? Far from it - in fact, around here, at present, they're the worst example of "long tailpipe" pollution, as most of Alberta's electricity still comes from coal (yes, all of those plants are being forced by legislation to convert to natural gas by 2030, but that's a marginal improvement, not a quantum one). So while Teslas are cool, they aren't as meritorious as owners here would have you believe. They may tell you that they pay a premium for solar- or wind-generated power, but that's accounting flummery. Hydrocarbon fuels remain the gold standard in terms of energy density, but there isn't a car company or related industry that doesn't see the writing on the wall, and the investment and effort in improving battery chemistry (and every other aspect of the electric drivetrain) is massive, and will continue to improve to the points at which it's competitive with, then superior to, burning fossil fuels. And that's the viewpoint from the very practical engineering perspective, not the starry-eyed environmentalist one. That doesn't mean we don't have a lot to atone for. The energy of slaves (as fossil fuels haven been described - PM me for references) has resulted in our building an unsustainable society in many respects. Departing it may force us to make very difficult and unpleasant compromises, but compromises that will in the long run rationalize and improve our society.
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It's a small point, but one that separates the knuckle-draggers from the pros: Do not use tape. Just don't. It's amateur and ugly and in time the adhesive turns to goo and you (or the person who deals with it later) will be filled with hate. Use heat-shrink tubing, and the clear stuff so you can see what's underneath. Your work will look like a million bucks.
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- vanagon subaru swap
- vanagon
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Sorry for the drift - it happens. But a simple "yes" or "no" would have been nice. [edit] Found the cross-references. EOT
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Before I put in an order, do I have the right numbers here for the DOHC? 13028 AA072 aka TB 277M
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Did you use your voodoo can? I've got a Chinese tea can - I threw a bunch of dead (computer) chips, bolts, and chicken bones in and glued the lid on. If a problem is sufficiently baffling I shake the voodoo can over it and it's sometimes mysteriously solved without further frustration. I trust that's what you did.
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Pick-n-Pull is my go-to yard because they have two locations here in Calgary. But they're California-based, and do an excellent job with their online database. Right now, they have six (6) 1994 EJ22 Legacys listed within not-unreasonable driving distance (250-350 mi) of you. Not close, but if you need it that badly, probably close enough - as in, you'll spend a day getting there, pulling it, and getting home. One car each in Modesto, Carson City, and Sparks. Three in Rancho Cordova. Unfortunately, no indication whether they're turbo or not (perhaps you can suss that from the VINs - I've never tried). Like any self-serve yard, time is of the essence, and how much of it you have depends on the yard. Here, the big yard (Barlow Trail) moves volume, so you have a couple of weeks to get what you want before the carcass gets crushed. The smaller one (52nd St) will keep a car in the yard much longer. If you're considering any of these, best to call ahead, confirm they still have the car, and find out what their particular TTL (time-to-live) policy is. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Zip=93535&Make=226&Model=4157&Year=1994&Distance=500
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Is that OEM?
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Could be the switch or the (delay) timer module as well - check the schematic.
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Any preferred brands for the belt?
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Well, it's a mischaracterization to say that you're "using the clutch to slow down". That's like saying that you're "using the clutch to speed up" when you're accelerating. The clutch doesn't slow you - you're using it to shift to a lower gear, then letting the motor slow you down. The point (of course) is to do it right by matching the revs to minimize wear, which keeps you in closer touch with the state of the machine. GD, I've gotta disagree wrt to learning a manual being "a waste of time for most kids now". It's a skill, and learning a new skill should never be considered a waste (at least, that's my argument to the friend who's telling me that learning how to rebuild an engine is a useless exercise when I can just go buy a used one, especially since I have no intention of doing it professionally). I have two 16-year-old girls - they just got their licenses, and it's important to us that they're able to handle with equal comfort and competence all of our vehicles - standard or automatic - because they cannot predict which car or truck they may have to drive in a given set of circumstances. Plus, they just bought a dirt bike, and they'll be that much further ahead with it thanks to having learned to handle the 5MT in the Legacys.
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You learned right, just as did I. Having "the web" teach you that riding around in neutral is somehow better is just as idiotic as it sounds - doing so is an enormous sacrifice of control in addition to being a lot harder on the brakes. Is the clutch going to wear? Yes - exactly as it's intended to.
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Not a "new" member - signed up 4.5 years ago, but just wasn't very active here for a long time (as I was on the other forum). Whatever.
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1197sts - Trying to mate up flex plate and TC? I've managed to bodge that one up too! Gottta be about eight years ago that I had to replace the 4.0 litre straight-six cast iron beast in my '97 Grand Cherokee - it was really high-miles, the pistons had been slapping for years (I just didn't know that's what it was called), and finally put a rod through the block. So I picked up a used mill from a Jeep guy in the city (sidebar: Nice chap, but if anyone's wondering if Canada has hillbillies, the answer is "yes". They come from Moncton, N.B.). After an abnormal amount of swapping of manifolds, water pumps, and brackets (the morons at Xler had reversed the rotation of the pump between the model years, so everything attached to the belt needed to be futzed with), it was lowered into place and ready to bolt up. Only the TC and flex plate (and the block and bell housing) would not suck together. After trying just about every Brute Force and Ignorance (nod to Rory Gallagher) trick to get them to mate, I finally pulled the motor back out in pure frustration. Buddy I'd gotten it from had been running an MT, and I hadn't spotted the pilot bearing in the end of the crank, which by this time had been bottomed into the cavity so hard that I couldn't grab it, nor was there any room for the ol' grease-and-dowel trick. I ended up grinding the sonof@b!tch out.
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Thanks - I'll take a look. Appears they're canuck-positive. Btw, are links to other Subaru fora legal here? I posted one a while ago and the entire post disappeared - I assumed a mod had yanked it for that reason.
