keith3267

Did you replace the right side wheel bearing? Brake hoses (the rubber sections) can delaminate and act like a one-way valve. You cannot see it from the outside. I always replace mine on the next brake pad change after the ten year mark.

If you had a Saturn with a P0507 code, I'd tell you that you have an intake manifold gasket leak. The Saturn SL1 engines are famous for this. The code means that the ECU detected a high idle for two minutes or more. A vacuum leak around one cylinder tends to confuse the O2 sensors so they end up dumping extra fuel into the manifold which causes the idle to rise up. But it could be the IAC was well.

I find that a lot of times the evap codes are often caused by chronic overfilling the gas tank. IF that is the cause, then it is usually self curing by simply stop filling at the first click. If that is not the case, then either the purge valve or the canister has to be replaced. However, it the vent line is rusted through and has a leak, that could be the issue. Instead of replacing the line, I would just cut it and slip a tight fitting rubber hose over it.

You don't use group V oil in a car. Its not made for petroleum powered engines. I don't know what it is used for but it is not ICE engines. Group III is your paraffin based synthetic. Group IV and V are both PAO oils, but you only use Group IV in your car. Mobil One is group III where Mobil One extended drain and Amsoil are Group IV PAO oils. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

Seat belt receptacles are NEVER built into the seat. But there would be almost no room for the reclining lever if the seats were reversed. Way back in the old days, the few cars that had bucket seats did not have reclining backs so people used to swap them to even out the wear. But it would be such a PITA to do that today that swapping the foam and covers is the only practical way. Just because something can be done (with enough effort) doesn't mean that it should be done. If the seats can't be separated from their tracks, then they cannot be swapped on some cases because the tracks aren't symmetrical.

The second number is the relative viscosity of the oil at around 210 degrees F, so the outside temperature is not a factor is selecting this number. The number that is affected by the outside temperature is the first number, specifically if it is followed by a w. The w means winter and that is the oils relative viscosity at 0 degrees F. My understanding is that the new engines have a tighter seal at the edges of the main and rod bearings to slow down the flow of oil from the bearing surfaces. The bearing to journal clearance is the same, but oil flows from a hole in the center of the journal to the outside of the bearing. The gap between the edge of the bearing and the side of the journal is made smaller. If you use a higher viscosity oil (second number), the oil flows slower, pressure is higher and the result is that the oil gets a lot hotter against the bearing surface. This can lead to bearing damage. For warmer weather, you might get away with 5w20. But 5w20 can be made from conventional oil, a synthetic blend or a synthetic group III petroleum based oils which do not meet the standards required for use in any engine that specifies 0w20 oil. 0w20 oils must be made from group IV base stock PAO which is a synthesized oil made from natural gas. It has no paraffin's in it. That's important for some reason. If you switch, make sure you are using a group IV synthetic oil such as Mobil One extended drain. However, there is one more issue and that is the oil does more than just lubricate. It is also used as a hydraulic fluid for the variable valve timing. The wrong viscosity oil could have a detrimental affect on cam timing. Bottom line, if you have an engine designed for 0w20, you should probably stick to it.

There are interchangeable if you don't mind the controls on the inside instead of the outside. You can swap the foam pads and covers though. Edit, manual seats only, power seats, not so much.

You don't need a timing belt to check the valves. Just have the engine at least 30 degrees away from TDC for all cylinders, that is somewhere mid stroke. You can turn the cams to close all the valves, cylinder by cylinder and do a leak down test. Its faster than a compression test. Be careful when turning the valves that you don't cause the intake valves to hit the exhaust valves. A knowledgeable mechanic should know the procedure.

I don't know about older Dodges, I'll take your word for it, but newer Fords need to have a maintainer plugged in or the vehicle has to be towed to the dealer and have their scanner reprogram something or it will not start. That is why I did not even consider having a Ford in my future. Before I bought the Subaru, I went back to the service department and asked specifically about this, along with a number of other questions that the salesman never had asked of him.

Lift one of your terminals and put an ammeter between the battery terminal and the cable to check for parasitic drain. An alternative is to lift the neg terminal and then touch the cable to the battery terminal very lightly and see if there is a spark. There should be a very small spark, if its a big one, then there is an issue. If there is a big parasitic drain, it could be a light in an enclosed space, like the glove box, vanity mirrors or trunk. I suspect that you will not get a very large spark. I think that in the end, it will turn out to be the battery. Even a new battery can fail early. They can develop an internal short, which is what I think you will find. One way to test is to disconnect the battery for a day or two and if it is dead, then you have the solution. Caution, some cars do not tolerate going without a battery for very long, these modern electronics are very sensitive. You might want to put a spare battery in or get one of those keep alive things you plug into the cigarette lighter that uses a 9V battery. Edit: a small internal short may not affect a load test on a fully charged battery so that is why the dealer missed it.

There is a drain for the HVAC ducts, and yours is clogged up. The drain is located under the AC evaporator and goes through the firewall. To find it, open your hood and look for the AC lines where they go through the firewall, then look down from there and find a rubber tube that points down after it comes through the firewall. This is usually at the top of the slanted part of the firewall. If you have access to some compressed air, then just blow some up there and you will see a lot of water draining out. A nylon tie strip stuck up the hose works too. When you use your AC, either in summer or in winter to defrost your windshield, water condenses on your evaporator coil. That is why the drain is installed. You may also be getting a little water into the duct work from the fresh air intake that is located under the cowling at the back of your hood. You don't usually get much this way, but if the drain is clogged, it will accumulate.

My goal was not to start an argument, but often when I say anything against flushing the cooling system, someone will take the opposite stance. Flushing with tap water just to prevent mixing is not valid. That would be like hosing out your crankcase every time you change the oil so the different brands don't mix. The only issue with mixing types of antifreeze was with dexcool and the old high silicate formula antifreeze. I don't know if that old stuff is even on the market anymore. Dexcool is an OAT antifreeze, all others are HOAT. HOAT is a hybrid version of the OAT type and is compatible and can be mixed together, though I personally would not do that except for the small amount left in the system when changing over from OAT to HOAT. I have done this conversion a couple of times and have never had a problem. I've been working on cars since high school, class of 67. After about 20 years, I noticed that every time I used a chemical flush, I had problems with seals and hoses leaking within a month or two. It was a trend. I stopped using chemical flushes and since then, in the last 30 years, I have had very few cooling system problems. The occasional stuck (open) thermostat, oil soaked hose that leaks or a leaking rubber seam on the new aluminum/plastic radiators and of course, the radiator cap that stops holding pressure, but no major problems. Well one leaking waterpump but that one had 265k miles on it. I do not like flushing automatic transmissions either and I get some flack over that from time to time. The only two things I flush are brakes and toilets. If anyone disagrees with me, thats OK. You are paying for your car and I am paying for mine, so you do what you think is best and I will do what I think is best. I will listen to your arguments for the way you do yours, but I will make mine too. Please don't take offense, I didn't mean any.

The advantage to Quick Struts is that you have a complete, brand new assembly. That restores everything, spring rates, rebound bumpers, rubber bellows, upper mounts etc. The downside is they are expensive (if all those other parts on your car now are good) and only a few companies make them. Monroe is the leader in this field and a lot of people do not care much for the quality of Monroe struts, but a lot of people are very happy with them as well. KYB announced that they were going to start making them too but I haven't seen any on the market yet. If you can find KYB quick struts, I would recommend them as KYB makes very good struts. Check rockauto.com and autopartswarehouse.com Note: I am only speaking of OEM replacements. There are "coil overs" that are made for high performance replacements that will raise/lower the vehicle and provide much stiffer rates and the ability to adjust the camber.

I know this will start an argument, but here goes. If you have an operating cooling system and have followed the recommended maintenance schedule, then never, never, never: 1. Flush the cooling system with plain water 2. Flush the cooling system with a chemical flush 3. Flush the cooling system with a power flush machine. All the above will only contaminate the cooling system and lead to early failure. You can never get all of the fresh water or other chemicals out of the engine, some will always be trapped. The minerals found in tap water will immediately start consuming some of the corrosion inhibitors in the fresh antifreeze. Chemical flushes are hard on seals and no matter haw much fresh water you pour through the system after, there will always be some residual chemical left behind. Power flush machines use a reservoir of coolant that can be of unknown origin. Your old coolant will get into the reservoir along with the used coolant of other vehicles. It is supposedly filtered somehow to make it good, and that may have worked back in the day when all antifreezes were the same, but not today. Power flushes and chemical flushes should only be a last ditch effort to save a neglected and non functioning cooling system. They may not work, but they are usually not too expensive so its a risk/reward decision. Drain the radiator and the block. Refill with the desired mix of antifreeze and distilled (or purified or demineralized) water. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule. For Subaru's, do put in the additive called for. One last thing, my understanding is that Peak antifreeze is the only antifreeze that meets the Japanese spec that Subaru's use, but in my opinion, any major brand, longlife, universal (HOAT or G06) antifreeze changed every 5 years will do just as well.

To answer your original question, the answer is no. There is something else at play here. Changing your coolant should not cause a blown HG, if that happened, it would be just a coincidence. Did you change the concentration of the mix? That might have an effect on the expansion. Was the new antifreeze a premix or full strength, and if it was full strength, did you mix in some water (preferably distilled) so that the concentration is somewhere between 30 and 70%? Did you drain the block and radiator or only the radiator?

This would be a good starting point, but start with the hoses first. A leak at the end of a hose could appear to be a heater core leak, and since the hoses are a whole lot easier to replace than the core, that's where I would start. Then do the pressure test or do the pressure test first and look at the ends of the heater hoses for leaks.

Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze is made to be mixed with water. It is not made to be mixed at 50/50. It is made to be mixed at anywhere from 30% to 70% concentration, but the peak effectiveness occurs at 67%. That is where the mix has the highest boiling point and the lowest freeze point, and 67% does not hinder flow. 50/50 is the concentration that works for most of the lower 40. It is good down to -34F. In very hot climates, there seems to be some question about whether mixes higher than 50% carry as much heat, therefore are not as effective as the higher mix concentrations, but I have used 67% concentrations for about 40 years in very hot climates, including pulling the grade out of Death Valley into California (in my Saturn) on one of its hottest days on record, and did not have an issue. I even had the AC on at the time. Right now my Subaru has the factory fill in it which is 50%, but if I ever change it, it will be to the 67% concentration level.

What ratio did you mix it. If you used a premix, you should not add any water. If you bought a full strength coolant, it should be mixed with distilled water at a 50/50 min to 2:1 (antifreeze : water) max concentration. I always go with a 2:1 just to get the additional concentration of corrosion inhibitors. You cannot use it at full strength as its freeze protection goes down above 67%. At 100%, it still protects in a way as it does not expand when frozen like water does, so if it freezes, it won't crack the block or heads. With a Subaru, you should go to the dealer and get the stopleak additive they use in the factory mix. This is preventative maintenance, you need to use it before the head gasket fails, not after. Most antifreezes are Ethylene Glycol, even Dexcool. The difference between them is the corrosion inhibitors. The only significantly different antifreeze are the environmentally friendly (less toxic) antifreezes that use Polypropylene Glycol as a base. It can be used at 100% concentration, but has less freeze and overheat protection. It is good enough for anywhere in the US except parts of Alaska.

Do you top off the gas tank when you fill up? Overfilling can cause this code, but it usually clears by itself in a couple of days. If you get it too often from overfilling, then the canister can be permanently damaged. Always stop on the first click.

The engine is warm. Rodents and Rabbits seem to like PVC for some reason.

The head is relatively stiff, that is it doesn't flex very much. When you initially torque the center bolts, you begin compressing the gasket. As you torque the outer bolts, you further compress the gasket effectively relieving some of the torque on the center bolts. You be confident that the engineers have correctly calculated the needed initial torque so that when the process is complete, the gasket has the same clamping force across its surface. The clamping force is the most important factor, not the tightening torque on the head bolts.

You must have had Firestone tires to mask that bearing. In 02, I bought a brand new Saturn. At 84k miles, when I replaced those OEM tires with a good set of Bridgestone Turanza's, I discovered that one rear wheel bearing was bad and had been so from the factory. It took me two days to get the old bearing out, I even pulled the bearing on the other side to see if it was supposed come out the way it looked like it was supposed to. It took about ten minutes on the other side. The new one went in easy so there was something wrong with the hub assembly housing on the bad one. This bearing made the typical roar. This is teh same car that blew a front bearing that sounded like a propeller, but that didn't happen until almost 274k miles.

I should add that when my last wheel bearing failed suddenly, it did not give the typical roaring sound but instead it sounded like a propeller on a small airplane. It only made noise above 50 mph. First time I ever heard a wheel bearing make that sound.

Can't see the video but I have had a bearing go with no prior indications. Its a bummer, especially when you are on vacation and almost 1k miles from home. In fact, it happened to me this year.

You will get a check engine light (96 and newer) if your thermostat does not open in a prescribed time determined by your computer. The time is based on outdoor temperature and conditions of warmup. I had one set one time when the freeze data showed the coolant at 179 instead of 180 when the time was up.