keith3267

What might make more sense for Subaru from a marketing standpoint would be to use the turbo 2.0 from the WRX, tuned for gas mileage ala Ford's ecoboost. It would still have more power than the NA 2.5 but get better mileage. In reality, the higher purchase price combined with the shorter engine life would not really be a savings for the customer, but as a marketing tool, it works for Ford.

If you are still interested, I bought this at AutoZone a couple weeks ago. It has a vibrator in it but i have not installed the batteries. It also uses memory foam. Not an ache since. Cost $15

I know this is going to sound a little anal on my part but you used the term "bleed". Bleeding brakes is to get air out of the brake lines and components. If you are just going to replace the fluid and do not have air in the lines, then the correct term is flush. The reason I point this out is that if flushing is your goal, then there is an easy way to do this that you can do by yourself. Get some clear 1/8" vinyl tubing at the aquarium section at WalMart. With the vehicle jacked up and on jack stands and wheels removed (easiest way IMO, attach a piece of the tubing to the bleeder valve. Note: if you do not have the correct size flair wrench, then use a box wrench or socket on a breaker bar to crack the bleed valve loose first. The tubing should go upward at first a few inches, then into a jar of some kind, but it is important that it go upwards for an inch or two first to prevent any air from siphoning into the calipers. I also like to pack a little grease around the threads of the bleeder at the base, but that is not really necessary for this type of flushing. Now use a suction bulb of some kind to draw out all the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. I use a suction bulb for batteries from a car parts store but you can use a turkey baster if your wife doesn't catch you. Refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid, your choice although I recommend that you not use any brake fluid meant for racing. Racing brake fluid absorbs water much faster than regular Dot 3/4. Racers usually change their brake fluid after every race and those who use their cars as street/track often swap between the fluids at the beginning and end of each race. Now all you have to do is to open each bleeder, one at a time or all for together and let gravity do its thing. Only open the bleeders a little, especially if you do all four at once, because you need to keep the master cylinder full. If it goes empty, then you will have to bleed the brakes. I usually do the two at the back first, then the two at the front. Since this has a X brake pattern, it does not matter which side goes first, just rears first, then fronts.

The torque angle method is more accurate than pure torque. You don't need a torque angle wrench though. You torque to 37 ft lbs and then mark the peak of the most convenient point on the nut, or the point that is closest to 12 o'clock. Mark the spot behind the peak, then turn the nut until the next peak aligns with this mark. The points on a 6 point nut just happen to be 60 degrees apart. I haven't worked on the Subaru engine yet, but here is a home made tool I used to holt the pulley on a Toyota. Its made from a scrap 1x4 and a couple of bolts.

Try a truck stop. They have all kinds of seat support systems. I do not like the blow up lumbar used in the Subaru seats (or any other brand car seats) as they are too high in the seat back and one each side of the lumbar. They rabbit punch the kidneys more than they support the lumbar. Memory foam makes the best cushions. Also move the seat as far forward as you can stand, and then lean the seat back a notch or two. If you have power seats, don't tilt the front up as it will cut off blood circulation to your legs. Seats are very personal. I usually have the best luck with the least adjustable seats in the cheapest models. My truck seats are the best right now. I wish I had gotten the basic Legacy instead of the Premium.

I have had 39% carbon tint (non metallic) to the windows and a 5% strip across the top of the windshield since this picture.

Bought a 2014 Legacy in Dec. I hope that I don't need any advice for repairs for at least a few years. My last 4WD was a Toyota Tercel 4WD wagon, that was a great little car but people kept asking "what kind of Subaru is that?" We got this car because my wife has limited range of motion in her one of her legs so getting in and out of the 97 Honda Accord was getting difficult, and we couldn't find anything else that was any better until we tried the Legacy. As you can see, we keep our cars for a long time so I hope this one works out.