keith3267

Looks like you nailed it. The receipt says the lockup solenoid is intermittently failing. Replaced the valve body and reprogrammed the transmission.

I get that a temperature gauge is a waste of space for a lot of drivers, but most most of those drivers, a warning light is useless too, they ignore them. Then they just don't understand why their engine needs to be replaced and why it costs so much. But for those of us who do understand the temperature gauge, it is very useful. I drove out of Death Valley to the California side one day when it was a 124 degrees at Furnace Creek. No car pulls that grade with their AC on in that heat without getting hot. I was in my Saturn. With the AC off, the temp would return to normal, with it on, it would rise. I put the AC in recirculation, then run the AC until the engine temp got up to about 60% of gauge scale (40% was normal), there were no numbers on the gauge. I would push the AC button to off and let the fan recirculate the cool air as the engine cooled down to normal. About the time the the cabin started getting uncomfortable, the engine was down to normal and I would repeat the cycle. Could not of done that with just an idiot light. I noticed the 2017 Outback they gave me this morning as a loaner while the Legacy is getting its new valve body in its transmission has a temp gauge, and it is not the limited model either, just the basic model.

Which engine in the Outback? You are scaring me a little as my 14 Legacy 2.5 has 53k miles on it. If it is going to blow a head gasket, I guess it would be better now, while it is still under warranty.

When I bought my 2014 Legacy, Consumer Reports ranked its reliability in a tie with Toyota in first place. However, among all the new vehicles I have purchased over the years, this one has had the most problems so far. Funny, my Saturn turned out to have the least issues of all, having fewer problems in 275k miles than the Subaru has had in 53k miles, but the Saturn was the basic model, single cam engine, stick shift and AC. No other options.

It appears that just putting up on the ramps and then taking it off each counted as a drive cycle. I decided to take it to the store a little later and as soon as I put it in gear, the lights went out. The transmission seemed to shift better than ever. I checked the codes and they were still there so I copied down all the FF data. I took it to the dealer Fri morning, they determined that it needs a new valve body and it will be covered under warranty. They were one O ring short of having all the needed parts so it goes back Tuesday for the repair. Edit: While I was waiting, a woman who was waiting on her car told me that the same thing happened to her and they replaced the valve body in her Subaru.

Started down the road this morning, about a mile from the house, the check engine light came on (steady) with a blinking AT oil temp light along with various other dash lights blinking. The blue coolant temp light was still on, the outside air temp was only 37 F. I turned around and went back home, put the car up on ramps and checked for any sign of leakage. Pulled the codes. P0700 which just means the transmission control module has detected another code and a P2763, Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit High. The car is a 2014 Subaru Legacy, 2.5, CVT 53k miles. It should still be under warranty, I'll have to check the book, it was either 50k or 60k. I can't find any other information so I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what I'm in for.

Do the cap first.

If the outer pad is the only one wearing down quickly, then the caliper pins (bushings) are sticking. It is quite common as brakes age. Just cleaning and greasing the pins is not enough, you need to replace the rubber seals as well.

This is a classic symptom for which people spend way too much money on. Its the radiator cap, pure and simple. Its not holding pressure, just get a new one.

Do you brake with your left foot?

If your screen name is providing a clue, you must own an 06 Legacy. The Innova 3150 scanner will read codes from that vehicle, including many manufacturer only codes. The manufacturer codes will require that you go to their web site to get an explanation of the codes meaning. If you are not getting any codes, then either your code reader is defective, your vehicle has a problem like a broken wire to the OBDII connector or you don't know how to use the reader. I'd be looking for a broken wire between the OBDII connector and the PCM or the CAN buss. One more possibility, unless your check engine light is on, you ay not have any codes to be read. You haven't said whether or not you have a CEL or that youare even having any problems with the car.

The P0420 is not a benign code. It indicates that the cat isn't working so in California, you will not pass the smog check with that light on. There are a number of things that can cause the P0420 code besides the cat, the rear O2 sensor is the most common. The rear O2 sensor does affect the operation of the engine in that it sets the course f/a ratio so the front sensor can fine tune it. The computer does have a workaround if the rear sensor isn't working. Once the front sensor takes over the fine tuning, the rear sensor only monitors cat efficiency after that. The fact that you lost power is a big clue here. If you still experience loss of power, your cat may be plugged up. There is a way to check the system for excessive back pressure. I'd get that checked and if it is too high, then you will need a new cat.

Better check those ratios. Most 6 speeds are close ratio transmissions where the 5 speeds are wide ratio. You could be in for a disappointment with the 6 speed.

Toyota invested heavily in Subaru's parent company and are now involved in the design and quality of the new Subaru's. Since Toyota got involved, Subaru's frequency of repair has improved to where it is almost a match to Toyota. The downside is that Toyota seems to be using Subaru to test new engine designs before using them on their own vehicles. The BRZ engine has features that Toyota will start using in the 2017 engines for the Camry and Prius. Edit: added this link to an article about the new Toyota engines and transmissions they will introduce 2017 to 2021 http://newatlas.com/toyota-tnga-engines/46830/?li_source=LI&li_medium=default-widget

For such a small difference, put the better tires on the front. For vehicles that are not AWD, if you have a large difference, say 4/32" or greater, then the better tire go on the rear for safety reasons, even for FWD vehicles. On a AWD vehicle, any differences greater than 2/32", the tires must be replaced or the better tires shaved down to match.

Fans can be intermittent. That is usually the result of one or more brushes sticking in their holder or a dirty section on the commutator. In either case, the fan only stops working when commanded on, it will not stop if the motor is in motion. Sometimes vibration will eventually turn on a fan that did not turn on when power was first applied.

Please remove the post about the new BRZ and WRX. It opens a "crashed tab" page that I think could be malware. I did not click on any of the links to restore, just went to my bookmarks and refreshed the main page.

If you use SS nuts and bolts, you have to use an anti-seize or the threads will gall. Copper anti-seize is recommended for this. You can use SS nuts with high grade bolts or SS bolts with a cadmium plated nut without anti-seize. SS bolt and plated nut is the best combo.

If the plug fits, its compatible. Remove yours and see if the plug from the wiring harness fits into the receptacle on the back of the new head unit. If it fits, it works. Usually. Edit: Google for stereo adapters. Almost all aftermarket head units use the universal connector. Look to see if the same adapter is used for both vehicles. Ebay is a good place to start.

You should be able to use any cat that is CARB compliant. In New York state, a CARB compliant cat is required. It is one of seven states that have adopted the California emissions rules rather than writing their own. But for many models, the only CARB compliant cats are the OEM.

I wouldn't worry about that little damage to the rocker. I'd just go to a parts store and see if they have a a can of dupli-color paint to match and spray the area where the paint lifted off. If it really bothers you, try a body shop that specializes in "paintless" repairs. They are much less expensive than the traditional body shops. My concern would be the wheel alignment and possibly a bent rim.

Are you loosing coolant? Are you checking? If you have a heater core leak, then you are loosing coolant and that could lead to an overheating event. You do NOT want an overheating event, I think everyone here will agree with me on that. If you are loosing coolant, the first thing I would check it the heater hoses where they connect to the heater core under the hood. The reason is that they are a lot easier to get at. If they are leaking at the connection, it is possible that some coolant could be following the pipe into the heater compartment. If so, that is a lot easier to repair than replacing the heater core. If the leak is very tiny, check to see if the AC drain is plugged up. I don't know about your specific vehicle but often the AC evaporator shares the same compartment as the heater core in vehicles that have an external heater control valve. That is a heater control valve located under the hood in the heater supply hose. Cleaning out the drain would drain most of the coolant so you don't get the fumes inside the vehicle. If all else fails, then use a 5/8" nipple to join both heater hoses together so that the heater core is bypassed.

ATF changes are usually done by a newbi/trainee. If an actual transmission technician had looked at the leak, you would not have to ask this question. There are a number of case connectors, each has a specific name and function. I'd suggest that you get a can or two of solvent, such as brake cleaner, and some rags and clean the outside of your transmission case. After a week or two, you should be able to find the leak. Another trick is throw a little talcum powder are the suspected areas, this will spot light the leak very quickly.

The silver stuff in the little tube is zinc oxide and is specifically made for an aluminum/iron interface, such as spark plugs. It is the best stuff for spark plugs IF the plugs aren't already plated with an anti-seize. For an iron/iron interface, grease fortified with molydium disufide (MOS2 or Moly) is the best. This would be for the hub/brake rotor and hub/wheel interface. The copper anti-seize is best for use on stainless steel but can also be used for spark plugs. Just because it dries up does not mean it isn't working.

Some aftermarket CVT fluids are yellow. Subaru's CVT fluid is blue.