AKIRA

We somewhat got it, it's an issue with the circut for connecting a trailers lighting up to your car. I was looking at the fuses (I was going to pull the one for the brake lights and see if that made the issue go away) when I saw the one for the trailer lighting. I pulled it and everything is back to normal. I assume something in it has shorted and is backfeeding power to the passenger side turn signals. We have the fuse pulled for now, so he can drive it normally, we'll have to troubleshoot it more when I have time off.

OK, these are some things we'll check. Would the turn signal switch cause the lights to stay on with the car off though? I saw that the switch on the top of the column was off, but I'll switch it back and forth a few times to see what it does.

Hi, this is regarding my fathers car, a 2005 Subaru Baja AT Turbo, about 110K miles. At one point, his passenger side turn signal lights came on and stayed on (solid, not flashing). They are on even when you take the keys out of the car. To be specific, it's the front and rear pass. side turn signal lights, and the front pass. side parking light (which is affected because it would normally flash along with the turn signals), so 3 lights. On the dash the pass. side turn signal indicator (the green arrow) is lit up and always on too. The Drivers side turn signal lights work fine, they flash normally. But, when you push the hazard switch in, the drivers side turn signal lights come on and stay on like the pass side. There is no relay click when you do this, only the click of the switch when you push it in. Using the drivers turn signals and the keyless entry unit, we were able to track down 3 modules that make clicking noises & cause lights to flash, two when you use the drivers side turn signals (one with a black plug under the drivers dash, mounted to the steering shaft, and a larger one, on the left side of the drivers side foot well up under the dash. It has a white plug). The third one is the keyless entry/security module, it's behind the glove box. We unplugged all three modules to no effect, the pass. side lights mentioned are still lit up solid. Is there another relay that we couldn't find (and if so, where is it?) or is there possibly a problem with the hazard switch? Thank You.

Hello, my Step-mothers car is a 98 forester and it has a problem with tires on the right-rear wheel. three times now a new tire put on the right rear side has become this within a few months: http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9995/tirevx4.jpg Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting it vibrates in the back when driving, obviously. (when I borrowed it I assumed a wheel was out of balance) now Walmart (where she bought the tires) have said the treads are separating and replaced them each time. any ideas on what is causing this? thank you.

well that didn't work. I am just going to take it to them, it's only going to cost $60 since I have the parts.

well I have the whole thing apart, and now I need that special socket I am going to try to make one, I will take 2 1/4" bars (like allen keys) and weld them to something and try it.

Hi again, I went to get my 84 4WD Brat inspected, and one of the things needed (along with front rotors) is that it needs the right rear wheel bearing replaced. I was told by the woman who owns the dealership (not the mechanic) that she "thinks" the bearing has to be pressed in and it may have to be done at the dealership. my haynes manual says specifically that the front ones need a mechanic to replace, and it doesn't really mention the rear other than regreasing them. so, can I replace the rear wheel bearing myself? I already have the large baring and two seals. mainly, does it require some pressing that only a mechanic could in their shop? I know her and she is very nice, if anything she is just mistaken, not trying to get me to take it to her so she can charge me for it. so, can I do it? thanks in advance.

ok, I got back from the drive. the fan works. I do however, want to wire in the other fan so that it will run in parallel with the working one. I am going to go to an autoparts store and get some plugs and heavier guage wire so I won't have to alter the stock harness in any way. thanks for your help.

ok, I got some crazy conflicting readings, and traced a wire that goes to an ac relay plug that, when connected, makes the plug that the fan plugs into have continuity across it's two contacts - so the fan won't run. I unplugged it, and now when I jump the wire off of the temp switch to the neg terminal, the fan now runs. I pinched the connector with pliers to make it hold better, and I am going to go get gas in it (it's low) to see if the fan runs when the car heats up. what do you guys think of connecting it so that both fans run with each other? (paralleling the one fan with the other)

I left my multimeter at work, but I was able to borrow my dads. I am going to check it out, but I have a quick question, this is what it looks like right?

ok, I found the switch, the wire has a loose fit, I stuck a jumper wire into it (the wires connector end) and grounded it at several points (including the batteries neg. terminal) nothing happened, it may have made a small spark once when I rubbed it on the neg. terminal, but no fans came on. ------------------- "You said "your fans don't come on", so I take it that you have AC. Do the fans come on when the AC is turned on? AC relay sends power to the DS fan, and grounds the PS fan bypassing the radiator switch, (if I've traced the wires of the harness out correctly). AC relay is the single relay closest to the PS fender in this pic. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...derthehood.jpg" ------------------- I did have ac, but all the freon leaked out before I bought it, and I removed the compressor when the bearings on it went out. the fans do not run with the ac turned on - there is no compressor. do you think that having no ac compressor is messing this up?

while in the drivethrough line at arbys (it was 5-10 minutes, the place has a high turnover rate so no one knows what they are doing) my car began to overheat, and it shot some water out through the overflow hose. I found out that neither of my radiators fans are working (and my car doesn't have a clutched engine mounted fan) I jumped both of the fans to the battery and they work fine, I just need to know where the fans temp sensor is located in an 84 ea81 brat. if it is bad, should I be able to just jumper across it to make the fans run constantly, for the time being? thank you. oh hey, good to be back, I haven't dropped by in awhile, I have been pretty busy with college and an intenship.

ok, I was able to get to cvs and buy a new battery for her remote, I did the lock/unlock, and it works fine now. thanks.

I will try that, but I have to wait until tomorrow, since the battery in her remote is dead. Thank you.

It is my stepmothers 99 forester automatic, ej25 shoc. after replacing the drivers side headgasget, we hook everything up except the radiator hoses, and connect the battery. when the battery is connected - no matter what key position (it doesn't even have to be in the ignition) the front turn signals, brake lights and instrument cluster lights (as in the light bulbs that backlight everything in the car, not the warning lights themselves) flash over and over. they flash at half the rate of a normal turn signal flash, they flash for one minute, then stop for ten seconds, then flash for another minute, and repeat. we have checked our electrical connections, and we are clueless as what this could be.