AKIRA

ok I am confused, fuse #13 is which one? the black wire connects to 4 fuses in the fuse box, and each one has a good connection to ground. I used my meter, there is no continuity between the wr wire to the black wire? and a very weird thing, with the car running I get 13.6 volts at the battery, I turned it off it measured 13 and was slowly dropping, it leveled out at 12.6 when I checked it a few minutes later and the lights are still on. just great. and sorry about the slow response, I was out of town for a few days, and I'll be out of town for a few more starting tomorrow.

the glovebox fuses are for a gen 1, mine is a gen 2 I have already checked the fuseable links, they are good. I did alot of tapping & shaking, doesn't work. (it made the lights dim before, but now does squat) all the warning lights turn on when the ignition is on. I jumped the wire, it worked. I got 13.47v off of the battery, no "wrong" lights, voltmeter was in the white.

hi everyone, I am the guy with the actual problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36830&page=1&pp=10 northwets diagram is the same one I have, a 6 page for a u.s. 82/83 out of a haynes manual I have already checked my fusable links, they are all good sorry jerry, this is a 1984 brat, gen 2. the "charge" for mine is a 10 amp, not a 5 like in the diagram

ok, well the black wire doesn't route throught the same connector block as the wr wire, it just exits the fuse and then dissapears into the dark regions of the dashboard. ok, well all of the fuses except the "charge" fuse are reading 11.5 - 11.8 volts, the charge has about 5. I was able to measure the voltage going to the #12 fuse, the ignition switch, and the fuel pump, all read ~11.5 volts the continuity from the wr wire to the black is good, with about 1.64k ohms (the resistance of the charge bulb fillament probabaly) what should I do now? and now for your entertainment, a fat cougar http://www.collegehumor.com/?image_id=153148

ok, I was able to trace it, the fuse the charge light (bw) wire leads to, a wire comes out of the fuse rail (black), it goes through the same connector the wr wires goes through, then to the ignition switch and the fuel pump. I was able to narrow it down to two posssible fuses, I will test the fuses for voltage after I post this, I just wanted to get this out before I got it mixed up in my mind.

I don't know, my diagram does't label the fuses at all. it just shows tyhe wires going to them, and what amperage rating they are, I only knew that the charge fuse was what it was because of the labeling in the fuse box, and the wr wire went to it. and I can't identify it from where it is in the box, the "charge" is in a different location in the diagram than in my car

what is the #12 fuse called? my wiring diagram shows a wire leaving the charge light and going straight to a 15A fuse, but it does not identify it beyond that. there are no red/yellow wires going to the fuse box

from the "charge" fuse to the negative battery terminal is getting 5 volts? yet the wire has less than one ohm of resistance the one beside it is getting 11.5 v oh and I'll sheck the #12 fuse to charge lamp wire too.

sorry, forgot to mention that. yes it went back to the non-charging mode, it only worked for a few seconds - and I have not been able to recreate it. not sure if the fuse has 12v on it, I was checking continuity with the continuity setting on my meter (it gives resistance and beeps if there is a connection) I'll check to find the voltage on the fuse

no amount of jiggeling now will get the lights to even flicker, its some fluke that made it work that one time. I took my lower dash off, and I was able to get a good continuity from the WR wire from the alt to where it hooks to the "charge" 10A fuse. it becomes a brown wire from there and then dissapears up into the dash. so I am sure that the wire is good up to the fuse. I am tracing the wiring from the diargam in a haynes manual, trying to get to a point that I can access without tearing the dash appart.

you mean the red light by the voltmeter right? yes it is lit up when the car is "on" but not running. news, when I tried the fuse test with my dad, when he stuck the probe in one of the fuses, it was reading about 11.7 volts, but then the car suddenly started idling a little lower, the lights disapeared and it jumped up to a little over 13 volts. we weren't able to reproduce this but by pushing on the fuse box we can make the "wrong" dash lights dim slightly. tomorrow I will pull the panel off and try to find a connection that is loose or a wire that is not conducting.

Just checked, I found a problem: I got 11.99 volts from the large post on the alt to the neg. terminal 12.06 on the large wire in the plug 66.7 mv! on the smaller wire in the plug from neg terminal to engine ground I got 2.6 mv from the large post on the alt to pos terminal I got 286.6mv

bump? we are stumped on our end.

I don't have a cleaner, but there is no corrosion on the contacts, I did bend them in so the connection is very tight now, but no amount of wiggling made a difference.

I tested these: from neg terninal to unibody, block, alt body from the + post on the alt to the fusible link the large wire on the plug to the fusible link other side of fusible link to pos batt terminal all of them read less than .5 ohms of resistance and the battery is at 12.5 volts, yet it reads just into the red on the dash guage and yes, I disconnected the battery before I did the resistance measurements what else should I measure?

I replaced the alternator, its not that, still does it with the new one. so I will start testing the resistance of wires.

checked the links, the plug, its all good. your two tests came up good too. It probabaly is just a bad alternator. It was just weird that the remanufactured alt that I replaced the old one with went bad too, and the one from the loyale is bad as well, when it was working just fine before I parked it. coincidence? can I test the alt. to see if it is bad using my multimeter?

My 84 brat has a problem, when I start it up, the "stop lamp" "brake fluid" and "parking brake" lights on the dash all stay lit (even with the e-brake off, no foot on the brakes, the fluid level is fine), along with the battery voltage being low enough to have the warning light come on. each time I started it the volts dropped and it got harder to start. right now its at 10 or 11 volts, but I had the battery on a charger for an hour or two, before I did it was at 8 and it barely started. I tested the voltage after I charged it, its the same with the engine off and when the engine is running, the book I have says I should take it to the dealer or a reputable garage because there is a problem with the charging system. It did this same thing about a year ago, but when I replaced the alternator it stopped, but its come back and no alternator will make it go away. I have replaced both the battery and alt. with the ones form my loyale and it still does it. when I had the problem this time, it fulctuated a few times, going from normal to lit up and back. now its just staying lit up. so its not the battery or the alt, what should I start checking, and how? the manual just says to take it to the garage. is it in the wiring?, and how do I check that?

usually I do, I forgot because I was switching alternators and batterys back and forth because of a wiring problem I am having, which I will be starting a new thread about now.

ok, I checked that and found the blown one, I hadn't realized before that that was a removable cover. I grabbed a link out of the dead loyale, it works.

I forgot to disconnect the battery when I removed my alternator, the wire that is held on by the nut in the back of the alt. scraped and sparked on the side of the alt. now nothing happens when I try to turn the car on. the little "door is open" chime still works. I checked the fuses under the dash, none blown, couldn't find any under the hood (except the ac fuse). did I miss any fuses?, what should I try next?

a word of caution to everyone, don't buy a set of $5 spark plug wires off of ebay. (the "Preformance" ones you have to cut to size and crimp the end on yourself.) I replaced them with the factory ones from my loyale, it runs fine.

my 1984 subaru brat's engine misses when driving it it misses alot from idle up to 3 or 3.5 thousand rpm. when you are just reving it, it misses from about idle to 2 thousand. I have sprayed carb cleaner in the carb, checked the whole ignition system out (nothing looks damaged or worn, wires are not "leaking", the plugs are gapped to .040 and look in good condition) I have adjusted the timing all around, it still misses. I even replaced the egr valve with the one off of my loyale. I have not checked the compression as I do not have a tester that can reach in properly do you have any other suggestions?

ballitch, so did you use the stock radiator? any problem with it

I may have found one sheap, but out of state. but I have to find a diagram for a 93 legacy automatic then