eternalphoenix64

We put new pistons in. I was pretty sure the orientation was correct, but just in case we need to get into it that deep as we tear it apart, how can we verify that?

almost 275000 miles, just rebuilt the engine including checking the valves (they were good, no leaks). Does it at all engine speeds, engine temp makes no difference. Is there a way to test whether or not the tensioner has gone bad?

So this thing has been a mystery recently.... Engine started to make a knocking noise that instigated a rebuild of the engine. COULD NOT FIND CAUSE. Went away when we put it back together. Got timing wrong by a LITTLE bit (like, one tooth on one cam) and caused a CEL. Got it fixed in a jiffy. Could have sworn we were dead on when we put it in though. Seemed like the driver's side was off by a half tooth between the two cams though. Couldn't be fixed.... Now the same knocking (it's not a BANG-BANG knock more of a TICK-TICK knock) noise is back. When I replaced the timing belt my dad (former flat rate mechanic with ~99% success rate) said that the tensioner was good and didn't need replacing. Could the original knock, CEL, and this knew "knock" all have actually been caused by a worn out tensioner allowing for just enough jump in timing that didn't damage the engine but caused a noise? The two knocks BOTH came on when I was in the processes of decelerating for a continuous turn (both on freeway interchanges at different speeds).

Don't know what caused it.... got a tester and it ended up being perfect. Reinstalled the sending unit and the light was gone. Oh well.

Would a compression tester work as a guage? Will one of the adapters included in the kit work or will I need to find another adapter? Thanks.

Car has 275000 miles on it, had worn bearings so much it was causing some knocking. Just rebuilt the engine a week ago. The only issue at the time was that the fuel purge solenoid got broken. Replaced that and the CEL went away. Came back on after a drive or two with a misfire on cylinders 2 and 4 both. Pulled the covers off and discovered it was out of time by a tooth (assuming it jumped timing, so planning to get a new tensioner already), pulled off the valve cover on that side to be certain we had tightened down the cam caps and they were good. Between a too loose oil pressure sending unit (it's been tightened now) and taking off the valve covers, I lost a little over a half quart of oil. Topped it back up and started it up and the oil light is coming on. Now here's the mystery - it doesn't SOUND like it has low oil pressure. The question: Does anyone know a good way for me to check the oil pressure with a gauge? Maybe a compression tester? Or do I just have to disconnect the coil, remove the sending unit, and crank it to verify that it makes a mess? Thanks.

Ok, so I bled the clutch system, didn't help matters much. Can someone confirm something for me.... I can use a trans from an EJ22? Just speedometer might be off? Provided, of course, that it's AWD. I know the final drive gear ratio is different, but the trans itself has identical gear ratios. I really need to get a trans ASAP before this one goes out completely.

Sounds about right, I'll check into it. Just a couple quick symptoms to add, don't know if it will change diagnosis.... I only notice that problem in 1st or second gear, and sometimes when I'm releasing, the pedal not only stops, but begins to travel back down.

Slave and master both have only about 5000 miles on them. Not much crud to damage them, fluid is still clean, and I diagnosed today that it only happens in first and second (had clutch down in third, no issues, shifted to second, suddenly had the issue). So I'm doubting it is hydraulic, but it's possible.... I'll try bleeding the hydraulics. Could I save some work tapping by just swapping bell housings? Which sensor is the speed sensor? Will the connector be the same? Would Forester size tires fit (and clear) in the wheel wells? I won't need tires for a few years probably, but having the info would be nice. Thanks

I know the 4th gear isn't a synchro issue, but it ALSO has had a synchro issue. Should I take it that a 99 Forester wouldn't work? I use an app that can check the pick-n-pulls locally and a 99 Forester was added just a couple days ago with a 2.5 5 speed. Also, why can I not use a trans from a 95 Legacy GT/OB? Or was there just no 2.5 option in 95? I don't want to deal with tapping any threads, so I'm staying away from phase 2. For the clutch, that would make sense if I had actually added grease to anything. At least part of it I feel is the throwout bearing catching a little on an edge (I especially feel this is the case during release as the pedal sometimes stops briefly before catching up with my foot). I've already driven it more than the normal 500 mile break in that is pretty standard on all clutches. If anything it has gotten worse, not better. I can now add that sometimes when coming to a stop (in gear, applying brakes, clutch pedal down) that the clutch does not fully disengage. Usually if I clutch again I can get it out of gear, and usually can still get it back in after that. It's been random, it isn't every time and I haven't noticed any practice that really guarantees that I will need to do it. The only way I can guarantee to not do it is to leave it in neutral while braking.

That might help with prevention..... My problem is that they're already toast and I have an issue with it popping out of 4th gear. So I need to replace the trans. So I want a good used one, but I need to know all my options for pulling from the junkyard.

I would bet that you got something wedged in the way of the shifter or accidentally disconnected something while you were removing/replacing interior parts to install the stereo. It's most likely simple. Pull everything back off and check that the linkages are hooked up and moving when you move the shifter. Also check that they didn't come loose from the transmission. In my Legacy the linkages are bolted on, but I've seen setups in other vehicles where it's just a ball joint that can sometimes pop loose.

My clutch had a catastrophic failure not too long ago. One of the rivets gave way and the clutch grenaded itself. Not from rough driving, by the way. I learned my lesson on that a few years ago when I had to rebuild an engine in another car. Anyways, prior to that, I had been having synchro issues in 3rd and 4th as well as 4th gear popping out of gear occasionally. To save time, money (possibly), and effort I want to just replace the transmission with one from a junkyard. I can go to Pick N Pull and get one for $150. I know that I can't use a transmission from a 2.2, but what years and trim levels can I pull from and not have any issues? I was told I can't use a trans from a 95 or 99, only 96-98. How accurate is that? Also, the new clutch as a really unpredictable release point and feels MUCH softer than the old one. Is this a symptom of the throw out bearing catching on the input shaft a little or did I end up with the wrong part or both? Any help/advice is greatly appreciated. This is my first Subaru and I love it. Aside from this, I haven't had any problems with it for 2 years, when I bought it.