Sapper 157

Never mind, I did a little research and answered my own question about the hydraulic brake line. What model year range of vehicles will have the disk brake hub/knuckle that will fit my car?

Okay gotchya. If i do the disk conversion, do i need to change the brake line as well? are there any other parts i need to change (besides new disks and pads obviously) Oh okay. im glad i asked then. Looks like ill just try the rear disk conversion method. That way i dont have to open up that rear knuckle

I'm possibly going to replace my rear wheel bearings in my 05 forester X. So far it looks like there are two options, tapered or ball bearings. From what I have read so far, it looks like subaru stopped producing the ball and now one can only get the tapered bearings. (my understanding is that they did this because tapered bearings take axial loads a lot better.) My question is, when looking on RockAuto, it appears you can get either the tapered or the ball, and it seems the ball bearing is a little longer in size. This apparent size difference will not affect the installation will it? I just want to make sure I get the right part. Also, not sure if it changes anything, but my subie has rear drum brakes and not rear disks. I assume the knuckle is the same but i am not sure. (also, before anyone asks, I am aware i will need a press and I do have access to one) Tapered Timken P/N 513248 Ball Timken P/N 511023

haha it would be all yours Dave!

Thanks for the advice Tom! I'll probably end up sending it for $500.

Thats sort of how I arrived at my estimate of $1200 -$1500... I also had to factor in that I just replaced the shocks all the way around (brand new KYBs) and tires.

Hello all, My 2005 Forester XS gave up the ghost today. The slight knock that I used to hear only on hill climbs finally escalated to the point of throwing a rod. I work two jobs currently, so I dont really have the time to be screwing around with putting a new engine in it, nor do I have the money to pay someone to do it, so I am looking to sell it with the bad engine. What would be a reasonable price to ask for it as-is? It's a 2005 with a good working 4EAT, rebuilt title, nice interior, decent body, all maintenance records going back to when I first acquired the car (about 25,000mi ago), decent paint job (a few scratches here and there),and tires that are only about 7000 miles old. I live in the Spokane/Coeur d' Alene area. I am thinking $1,200 - $1,500 but that might be setting my hopes a little high. *Edit: Forgot to mention that the body has 154166 miles

Coolant In the rad is full. Got an oem t stat in there that was put in about 16000 miles ago. Hoses are good and I will check the fans tomorrow. Thanks for the specs on the tstats Rampage

I have an 05 forester with a 2.5 n/a as my daily. The car sees a 15 min hwy drive almost everyday on my drive to a from work. During that time I have a BlueDriver obd reader feeding live data to my phone. For the longest time, the car has stayed at a rock-solid 187 degrees during cruise at 60 mph. Yesterday I noticed that it climbed all the way to 210 before settling back down to 198. Coolant is full. When I got out to feel the rad hoses, upper one was hot while lower one was stone cold. I’m thinking I have a sticking thermostat, but wanted a second opinion. Am I freaking out over nothing?

Okay got it. Thanks for the clarification. I put the full size spare in the passenger rear and moved the original passenger rear to the front where the bad tire was. Hopefully I can find a used Brigstone Ecopia in town that has about the same wear

Doesn’t the tread depth change the circumference? Therefore I should be worried about tread depth?

So one of my tires decided to contract cancer... and the bulge has started to make the bead slip. The tread depth difference between my full size spare and the other tires is just over 0.100”. Can I run my spare for a little while without hurting the diffs if I put in the 2wd fuse? Just until I can get a used tire that has similar enough tread depth...

Thanks! I'll skip it then and spend my $30 on something more useful.

So ive been toying around with the idea of putting a cheap catch can on my daily (05 forester, 2.5 SOHC). I have heard that there is a much bigger benefit if you have a turbo, but since mine is naturally aspirated, what, if any benefits would I see from installing a catch can?

Quirkparts.com is where I get most of my oem stuff. I find their prices are typically slightly better than the dealer https://www.quirkparts.com/

Sweet. Ya got me sold. What are your thoughts on ceramic pads? Are they worth it or is semi metallic the way to go?

Looking for some new front brakes for my forester XS. The car is my daily but it does see occasional long drives where it will experience periods of braking on hills. Anyone have any experience with either of these brands from RA? I am just looking for quality brakes that won’t warp easily under average use/conditions, I don’t need anything fancy or track-rated. Power Stop: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10181964&cc=1430723&jsn=11573 Durago: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10701256&cc=1430723&jsn=11576

Update: I decided before I tried the Tactix cable, I would just see if throwing a new A/F ratio sensor in would do anything. So, after installing a new Denso P/N 234-9122, my light has not come on for 92 miles now. So it appears that my front o2 sensor went bad early for some strange reason

https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oem-parts/subaru-pcv-valve-11810aa131?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2v7mBRC1ARIsAAiw34_iHKBti9tURJTUOJAhKQvrPOIA7cMeznqObnJZ9oW-8G_0sKhxGQEaAompEALw_wcB

Hey all. Its been awhile. Got a 2005 Subaru Forester XS with the SOHC EJ25 N/A. Since around March, I've had a code P2097 off and on, and within the past month it has become a constant code. So far I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor (Denso replacement), the air filter, and the front A/F sensor was replaced with OEM only 11,000 miles ago so I am very hesitant to replace that one again. My short term fuel trim hangs around -2% to +3 on the highway, and long term trim stays around +4.7%. I have been told that those numbers are "normal" but please educate me if that is not true. My MPG is 23 - 24, and the car sees a mixture of city and short term hwy driving... so i believe that is a pretty average fuel econ. Is it possible my ECM needs to be reprogrammed? Other Information: Car idles smooth as silk at around 650 - 670 RPM Car starts great Engine response feels peppy (as peppy as a 4EAT can be) Car does burn some oil (quart every 1200 - 1500) Does not have any obvious fuel leaks at the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, etc. I do run some MMO thru it every other fill up The following was also replaced around 12,000 miles ago: Head gaskets (OEM) Spark plug wires (NGK) Spark plugs (NGK) I have not done any fuel pressure or cat back pressure tests, would those be good to do? Thank you all for any insight.

Cool thanks

The shocks on my 2005 Forester XS are prettty tired and I’m looking to get new ones. I was gonna go with KYB all around but I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Gabriel brand since they are about $20 cheaper.

Unfortunately, I’m already pretty strapped for cash so I think I’ll kick the oil pump upgrade down the road. I got the engine off without any trouble from the TC. Decided I’ll leave the fuel injectors alone.

Should I remove and clean the fuel injectors as long as I have the intake mani removed? Also, tips/guidance for removing the engine without accidentally pulling out torque converter with it are much appreciated. I have read it is a nightmare to deal with, and would like to avoid it.

That torquing procedure was recommended for the EA81. And to my knowledge, it was not a retorque in the sense that they backed off the head nuts to zero torque and them torqued them. It was simply going over them again and making sure they were still at 57 ft lbs. I have done this before on my car but it has never moved the nuts at all. I wouldn’t recommend it for the newer cars, since there is a warning in the manuals not to go beyond the specified torque range or you risk snapping a head bolt. this procedure probably had little to do with the HG reliability of the EA81. It had more to do with the EA81’s 9 head fasteners, compared to EJ series 6 fasteners. (I think it’s 6 anyways... correct me if I’m wrong) Also, it had lower compression and was a smaller engine.