Sapper 157
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Everything posted by Sapper 157
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<p>Is it not quite full or is it discolored/dirty? Has it never changed? If the answer to any of those questions is yes... its time for a change.</p>
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- Gl transmission
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After Rebuild, Cant Keep it Running or to Idle
Sapper 157 replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Nope, but I can probably get a hold of one -
After Rebuild, Cant Keep it Running or to Idle
Sapper 157 replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
How would this have gotten messed up?? I didnt touch the disty except for a new cap and rotor. How would I tell if its 180 out of wack? -
After Rebuild, Cant Keep it Running or to Idle
Sapper 157 replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i took a few photos and I marked EVERYTHING and made sure that everything was reconnected to its proper port... but like I said I could have missed something, so I will go over the photos again -
Okay so I got it to start, but I have to rev it to about 1500-2000 to keep it alive, if I let it get below that then it dies. The tach is also super jumpy even at that high rpm. So heres what I am thinking: I could have adjusted the valves incorrectly, I will recheck that I could have put a vacuum tube in a wrong port... I don't think i did but I will recheck again The carburetor I'm sure is out of adjustment, but I don't think it would cause this much of an issue Could be out of timing? It cannot be a misplaced spark plug wire... I rechecked those about 30 times Other thoughts or advice?
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yup. Aftermarket block heater... It doesnt work right now though, I need a new cord
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Almost done! Engine is in, hooked up and almost ready to go. Had quite a few issues with the rocker arms and pushrods, but thanks to CrazyEights, all that is taken care of now... I still need to fill the antifreeze and triple check all connections, but once when that is done, then all that is left to do is get a new pitching stopper rod at a pick n pull. Crazyeights rocker arm all snug and valves adjusted:
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Do I need the pitching stopper rod to run the engine? I was trying to torque it down tonight and thought my wrench was set for 13 ftbls but was set for 23 ftlbs.... ended up snapping the end of it. I am really anxious to get this thing going, but dont want to cause more problems. Do i need it in order to run the engine/use the car? I am planning on making a pick n pull trip this coming week to get a new one, but was wondering if I can still use the car until then?
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Hot-Rodding a Brat in two stages - Suggestions?
Sapper 157 replied to RAD's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I would be hesitant to use silicon on a carb body gasket... it would be too easy to block up a pour or passage way... I do use a tiny bit on the base gaskets to help seal the mating surfaces, but on the carb body I dont believe that would be necessary. Now, as far as the base gaskets are concerned, absolutely use gasket material. it is way cheaper than buying a bunch of premade ones. -
Hot-Rodding a Brat in two stages - Suggestions?
Sapper 157 replied to RAD's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Honestly your best bet is a rebuild kit... if you can scrape it together, its only about $22 for one from carparts http://www.carparts.com/details/Subaru/GL/Walker_Products/Carburetor_Repair_Kit/1984/WKP15853A.html -
Never mind, I found where it goes... It is the brace that goes from the oil filler tube to the bell housing
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Fuel not fully burned, everything working - WTH?
Sapper 157 replied to RAD's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It is good that you have done rebuilds in the past... you will need to call upon all your carbureation expertise in order to take on the Hitachi. They are hellishly picky and incredibly complicated for a two barrel carb... You will need to purchase a rebuild kit. The cheapest I have found them is on carparts.com for about $25ish. Or sometimes ebay has a good deal on them. I would try to get a Walker kit as they have always been good to me. You pretty much nailed the problem on the head... or at least a potential problem. The fact that it was slowly getting worse tells me that the float itself may have a leak in it and is soaking up fuel, thereby making it run richer. Or it is possible that your throttle needle just needs to be replaced... You could just replace the float for good measure. They typically run about $6 — $10. -
Fuel not fully burned, everything working - WTH?
Sapper 157 replied to RAD's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Probably just needs a float adjustment. Look at the little sight glass on the side of the carb while it is running at idle and look where the fuel level is... above middle of glass = too rich. Below middle of glass = too lean. At center of glass = just right. To adjust, take the top off the carb and pull the float off needle valve. bend the little foot on the float either up or down to adjust. I THINK its Up = rich and Down = lean.... but cant remember exactly. Have you rebuilt the carb recently? make sure you did not flip the jets by mistake. I did that once and got 14 MPG. haha! Also, are the plugs/wires NGK? Replace them if not. You will see a jump in performance just by switching to NGK plugs -
Yup... that would do it for sure...
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Almost sounds like when my accelerator pump arm was defective on my hitachi... The thing would shake like a no tomorrow on hills... The problem could be fixed for a short while by chugging the gas pedal and getting the rpms up. Maybe you are having a similar problem?
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EA81 Spring Washers.... Why me?
Sapper 157 replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You are the best crazyeights! I'll get that PM sent tonight -
Broken bolt problem 1980 subaru brat
Sapper 157 replied to skinny664521903's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My guess is you just got a low quality set of taps... Also, did you lubricate the hole with WD-40 as you were tapping it? Thats what I do and it seems to help. -
Broken bolt problem 1980 subaru brat
Sapper 157 replied to skinny664521903's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Heli coil new threads into it. If you cant get a helicoil then try a different set of taps. The head is just aluminum and should re thread no problem. When my thermostat housing bolts stripped the threads, I just used a tap set and made new ones and it was no problem for me... -
Well its one dag gum thing after another.... I have my heads back on with new head gaskets and pushrods, and as I was adjusting the valves today, I noticed that the rocker arm was extremely loose. I compared it with the other rocker arm, and found that my left hand rocker arm is missing the spring washers. So now I gotta find out what kind of spring washers these are and where I can buy them from... unless of course it is possible to run the rocker arm without them... any advice on where to find these spring washers? My local hardware store and automotive shop doesnt have it... I live about 80 miles/1hr 45mins from the nearest Home Depot. Does anybody know where I can buy these stupid things online? Or what size they are? Or have any info on them at all?