Sapper 157

I will try to get some pics up tomorrow. until then, check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154295-just-plug-it-taking-some-of-the-mystery-out-of-your-hitachi/?hl=%2Bjust+%2Bplug

Wow that was a little overly dramatic... anyways, what is the factory ground clearance on the XVs? It looks to be quite decent from the videos.

Well I sure hope so. Its all hooked up now and matches my old Fuji one that came off the car... so I assume its the right one. I got the Luk #15003

I got the Luk kit. Yeah it had an NSK throwout bearing, a KBC pilot bearing, and this thrid bearing.

Found this little bearing in my clutch kit . So far I have not found any diagram in my repair manuals that includes it... Anybody know what this thing is for/where it is supposed to go?

Yeah that sounds like a very likely possibility...

Okay here is a pic of the spring... the longer end hooks to the accelerator pump arm, and the shorter end hooks to the little tube you see there

I'm aware of those holes. That is not the bolt I am referring to. I am referring to the head stud BEHIND the rocker arm. So what you are saying is, 1) take two sockets, and put them between the rocker arms and the head, then 2) put the bolts through the sockets 3) torque everything down 4) remove the bolts/sockets 5) put the bolts back on without the sockets and retorque them... did I interpret that correctly?

Is there a special socket of some kind that can reach the nut behind the rocker arms on the EA81 heads during the retorquing sequence? It is at an awkward angle that cannot be reached with a regular 17mm

Would it be a bad idea to reuse the intake manifold gaskets? They are only a few months old and they are OEM

Were you thinking Weber or Hitiachi?

The words "basic" and "dual carb" dont really work in the same sentence haha lol

Any ideas what could have happened? Could miss adjusting the valves do this? Do pushrods go bad often?

Yeah valve covers are off... that is how I can see the rod is bent. Darnit all... I shouldnt need to resurface the heads right? it was just done in October. Okay awesome! CrazyEights might also have a set so let me talk with him a little so you dont have to dig around a lot just to find out I got them from him.

Okay never mind... my pushrod is definitely shot. I was looking down the bore, and I rotated it up and saw that it had bent so much that the edge of the bore has almost completely eaten through the rod. And it looks like I have two other bent ones. Okay, so what am I looking at here? Will I have to redo my HGs again? Is it possible to take the rocker arm bolts off and put them back on without ruining the HG? Or will the torque change ruin them? IIs there anyone who can sell me a set of rods for my engine? This project was supposed to be done a week ago, now it looks like I wont be done for another two weeks with this problem.

EA81, Solid Lifters Okay so currently my engine is out of my car, there were really no strange previous running symptoms, other than a bouncy idle, but I would attribute that to the stupid carb. Anyways, I was looking at my pushrods today, and it looks like at least two of them have very noticable bends in them. Should I be worried? There was no bad symptoms before I took the motor out that would say I had a bad pushrod, I kept the oil level at the top. How would I replace them? I cant find spare pushrods anywhere on the web. Should I just leave it alone and hope nothing happens? Even if I could replace it, can I do that without taking the heads off? (I just did a head gasket job a few months ago and dont want to have to do all that work all over again)

Ah I see. You are referring to the BIG fram filters. Yes, those absolutely go for quite a chunk of cash. I mistakenly presupposed we were only referencing the smaller frams that our soobies run. My mistake. Why do you deal with them every day? Do you work at a lube shop of some kind? A repair shop?

I actually only recently switched to buying online, I used to buy at Wally World. Never in all my oil changes have I seen a Fram go for more than $9-$10 at Walmart. $30?? What kind of a Walmart do you go to? I have never been to any walmart that has an oil filter for more than $12. Also, you would be incorrect. They only manufacture one type of Ultra, there are not multiple models of the Ultra. The models they make are the Extra, Tough, High Mileage, and Ultra. They dont make any others. I disagree on the QC statement. In the hundreds of oil changes on both my cars and my friends cars, I have only had one that was obviously defective. Now... in an attempt to move the discussion along... what is the general opinion on oil modifiers like HyperLube, Lucas oil modifiers, ZMAX, and STP Oil Treatment? I have run Marvel in my oil about every other oil change, but other than that I have not really messed with the oil additives.

Ah... the good ol' Fallacy of Appeal to Tradition... well played! haha just kidding. Like I said, and like has already been said... if you dont use or like Fram, that is your choice. Thats fine. I have no problem with WIX, or any other filter brand really except STP. I would only request that your reasons for disliking Fram be well founded on research and data. Not sure I agree with you on the pricing... I would have to look into it more. Price varies a lot depending on where you buy them, and who you buy them from. I get my Fram Ultras off Amazon for $7.00, instead of going to Walmart where they are typically $9.00. At any rate, ANY high end filter will do the job and do it well.

Yes. You will need it if you want your carb to work correctly. Pics soon to come... This really belongs in the Old Gen thread and not the Historic thread. Just FYI

1984 GL Wagon, EA81 So, long story short, I could not figure out how to get the throwout bearing off of the bearing guide... found out all I had to do was pound it off with a hammer. Got the old one off and gently tapped the new one in with a wooden mallet. However, I looked at it today and spun the new bearing to check for tightness, and it sounded like it had been on the car for thousands of miles. It grinds really bad, and I can see grease coming out of the inner and outer race. So I ordered a new bearing today because this one is obviously shot. How do i prevent this from happening again? do I just tap lighter this time so as not to wreck the bearing? should I freeze the guide, then tap the bearing on in hopes that it will make the guide smaller?

Thank you for your thoughtful and kind response. I appreciate that you reconsidered your position on Fram I can understand why you would shy away after seeing some malfunctioning Frams. Fram is still no where near perfect. Although they may be leaps and bounds from where they were, they are still a company run by humans and therefore liable to error. I agree that as long as a person is using a higher quality filter, then the engine should be just fine as far as lubrication protection is concerned. Whether it be a Fram Ultra, a Wix Gold, or a Purolator Classic, as long as the filter is of a higher quality, and has all the right innards (metal end caps, silicon bypass valve, wire screen, and fiberglass instead of cellulose media) then it should be just fine.

haha I should have read your reply all the way before replying Jeszek,I probably should have just left the fram thing alone... but oh well

By what basis do you claim that Fram is crap? Just from a bunch of youtube videos? Or personal research/experience as well? I am in no way trying to be offensive, I ask it as a genuine question.Yes, I have watched the videos. And I have taken them apart myself. So far, not a single one has looked anything like the videos. Even their Extras (which are currently their cheapest model) now have metal instead of cardboard endcaps, and a silicon bypass valve. They still use cleeuose material in their extras, which is not as good as fiberglass media, but Wix uses the same thing in their filters if I remeber correctly. Most of those videos are from a time when their production standards were a lot lower than they are now. According to oil filter standards, their Ultras are some of the best filters available for the money. They have double layered fiberglass, a wire mesh screen, silicon bypass valve, and metal end caps. So if you are saying that they are of a crappy construction, that simply is not true... at least not anymore. My family's rigs have always ran perfectly as far as lubrication/oil is concerned. In the 25+ years my dad has used Fram on our rigs, we have not had one filter failure. If you dont want to use Fram, that is your choice, but if you are justifying your hatred of them off of a dozen videos done by rednecks who dont actually know anything about the oil filter industry, then I would encourage you to do a little deeper research. I found this independent study to be very helpful: http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

I use MaxLife as well... however I have always been partial to full synthetic, so I will likely be switching to Royal Purple 10W-40... agree to disagree on the filters. My family has always used Fram filters on all of our cars, I only use their Ultra filters on my soobie. Their ultras have double layered fiberglass media, and a wire mesh screen... so not sure what the big issue everyone has with them. they work perfectly well with me. I know their production standards used to be pretty low, but I dont see any issue with them now a days... just my 2 cents...