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Sapper 157

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Everything posted by Sapper 157

  1. Sapper 157
    Okay thanks, I was just curious. Nope not a turbo.
  2. Sapper 157
    Any particular reason to use the 2008 sti HG (p/n 11044AA770) instead of the actual HG for the 2005 Forester (p/n 11044AA642)?
  3. Sapper 157
    Thanks GD!
  4. Sapper 157
    Yeah ill probably hold on to the oil cooler for now. Definetly gonna do HGs... ive heard and seen too many friend's 2.5s failing. I do have what may be another "newbie" question... would this bearing set work for my cars timing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Idler-Bearings-Tensioner-Kit-911-82005-Forester-2-5L-SOHC-99-05/272667954248?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50544%26meid%3D4d5fe1d256484fd697d58cbaf78e66e6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D302313888648%26itm%3D272667954248&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 It says only for manual trans but i know these internet vehicle part match things are not always accurate. Would this kit work with the 4EAT forester?
  5. Sapper 157
    Exactly... because they are factory. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you simply will not find an aftermarket axle that will last as long as OEM. I doubt even if you put synthetic rubber boots instead of neoprene you could get any set to last 20+ years. Best option is to re grease and reboot the factory ones.
  6. Sapper 157
    Dave is right... subaru factory axles, as long as they have not been run without grease, are over-built and incredibly durable. My buddy had a set of factory axles on his Forester that he ran with ripped boots for several months (we don’t actually know when the boots ripped, but it had to be several months because there was no sign of grease.) When they finally started sqeaking, I took a peak inside to find that the entire inner part of each axle was filled with rust and road crap... and they STILL worked. But OEM ones are getting scarce even in junkyards. For aftermarket, I use EMPI and usually get 5-6 years out of them... 7-8 if I spray the boots with silicone often.
  7. Sapper 157
    Again, I am unsure what vac ports you’re talking about. If you have a Weber (only one “b” please) then you should only have one vac line coming from the front of your carb to the distributor. All other vacuum ports on your intake/engine can be capped. As far as MSD, I can only repeat what has already been said... there really is no gain to adding MSD to an EA81
  8. Sapper 157
    I assume you are talking about all the vacuum hoses at the carb? you can try to cap them, although members have had mixed success. Easiest fix is to get a weber, although they do cost a little bit ($200 - $300)
  9. Sapper 157
    Sweet Ill look into that once when I have the car in front of me.
  10. Sapper 157
    Found this Aisin kit on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aisin-TKF001-Engine-Timing-Belt-Kit-With-Water-Pump/112960719404?epid=227929600&hash=item1a4cfbca2c:g:W6gAAOSwzJ5XZs6c&vxp=mtr Product bulletin: http://www.aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/68y84rq7_TKF-001_TIMING_BELT_KIT.10-07-11.pdf In the PB above it says its for a manual trans only... is that correct or will it work fine for an auto trans? Also I found the HGs you were talking about GD. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
  11. Sapper 157
    Ah okay then. I didnt realize that about the fuel filter. I wont be able to get to the car until late june so that doesnt help. Ill add changing the diff fluid as well.
  12. Sapper 157
    Dang okay. Looks like im gonna be pullin the engine. I'm guessing OEM only on HG correct? FelPro no good? As far as new radiator, found one on rockauto by a company called TYC. For timing belts I am looking at AirTex. Think they will work or is there a specific brand for radiators or timing belts for these cars? sorry for the rookie questions
  13. Sapper 157
    Hello all. I usually am over in the Old Gens, but given recent circumstances, I am having to retire my old Blue 84' wagon. Standing in as its replacement is a 2005 Subaru Forester auto transmission with 125,000 miles on it. it has the 2.5, which has had regular oil changes. (the car is a gift from an elderly couple who keeps their cars in good shape). According to their mechanic, the timing belt will need to be changed soon, but other than that, I am planning the following as a tune up: Spark plugs & wires (NGK), rad cap, OEM thermostat, new coolant, service the battery, change transmission fluid and filter, fuel filter, and air filter. Is there anything specific to this engine/transmission that I should hit with my tune up? I know they are known for HG issues... how worried should I be about that since they have never been done? Any other maintenance recommendations to help make this car a reliable daily?
  14. Sapper 157
    Yup. Get rid of it and cap the ends.
  15. Sapper 157
    Now take the pump to the guy who broke it off and wack him in the nards with it as hard as phyiscally possible. never let that idiot near your car again.
  16. Sapper 157
    Sounds like it’s a dremel and a cutoff wheel time. Slowly make a two cuts into the pump being careful not to cut the block. That is probably your only option now.
  17. Sapper 157
    How much did you adjust them? Yeah that probably wasnt the best idea. Did you adjust them in or out? did you follow any adjustment procedure at all, or did you just start turning the nut?
  18. Sapper 157
    I have a LUK in my 84 right now. So far I have put 12,000 miles on it with no problems. Most of that has been stop and go city driving too. If you can’t get the exedy, the LUK kit is a fine standin in my opinion. As has already been said, don’t bother with a new flywheel. Just resurface your current one.
  19. Sapper 157
    Just had Blue aligned, and now almost every time I step on the brakes, (problem is intermittent) there is a thud in the rear passenger area. I already bled the brakes and took off the drum for inspection. Nothing looked out of place. No obviously loose bolts or anything. Anybody have this happen or have an idea of what’s going on?
  20. Sapper 157
    yeah that tiny bit of scoring on the pump flange shouldnt be a problem. As far as the O-rings you are correct in both statements.
  21. Sapper 157
    Go to the forum home page Go down to the bottom where it says moderating team in small blue letters click on one of their profiles Click on the message button
  22. Sapper 157
    Really dont understand how your friend (or whoever you are) thinks we are gonna hurt his (your) family. We are just a bunch of guys and gals who care about old subies and wanna learn from each other. we dont all agree and some of us react rather angrily when we see a perfectly good wagon hacked up for cheap thrills and fitted for a carb that belongs on a motorcycle... but none of us are so passionate that we would drive over to washington to do physical harm to you. Nobody is gonna try to do anything with his dumb pictures. You need to take a chill pill dude. And stop ranting at us. If you want your ridiculous pics taken down so badly, then ask a mod instead of pissing all of us off more with your demands.
  23. Sapper 157
    lol lawyers?? He was griping about spending $300 on a Weber and now somehow he can afford lawyers?? What the heck is he scared of? No body is gonna get any information from a few pictures of an 82 wagon with an ugly carb sticking out of a hacked hole.
  24. Sapper 157
    That paper gasket doesnt really do a lot of the sealing. most of it is done by the larger o-ring. How scratched are we talking? Like scotch brite scratches? or deep gouges? BTW thats a beautiful looking wagon!
  25. Sapper 157
    Yeah the pan is easy to remove, and most people just replace he gasket with RTV. Real simple job. Just be sure the mating surfaces are extra clean when you put them back together and don’t overtorque the pan bolts. Also tighten in criss cross pattern I think they only have like a 3.5 - 5 ft lbs torque iirc
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