Sapper 157

Ok thanks. I'll try that.

Can someone please help me figure out why my secondary barrel wont open? I'm certain that the mechanical base plate that holds all the springs and bars is to blame, but I cant figure out how to get the d**** thing to work! If someone would be kind enough to take a pic of the side of their carb (the side with all the springs and bars) so I can compare theirs with mine that would be great. I'm not sure how this got messed up, but it needs to be fixed. Thanks all1

Ya I know what it does... But is there a way to know if the canister is working if my ECS light on my dash never comes on? The previous owner did a lot of electrical stuff and I think he disabled either the whole ECS system, or just the light because it never comes on.

No not yet. Im gonna save the tires for either late this year or early next year. Your good report of them makes me glad im getting them!

If you haven't already, I would try adjusting the high idle screw on your hitachi (if you dont know where that is I can post a pic) Regarding the thermo sensor, or sometimes called a 'coolant temperature sensor', it it is located on the backside of the engine block, just below the intake manifold (although it might be different for EA82s, I have an EA81) It is almost always near the thermostat housing. It is the unit which tells you how hot your engine is, and I believe it also regulates other electronic things within your engine. (could be wrong about that) If it fails, it will give you false readings on your dash, and I have heard it can cause other electrical issues. Here is what it will look like out of the block: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQDhzabWtxdzRTqYn7ceKAhDDyQEqiUHRSbIlSn7FvVk9vZLKyRag and obviously, only the top part will be showing when its in the block. They are pretty cheap usually, I just bought one from rockauto on sale for $8; because mine is 31 years old and will need to be replaced soon. EDIT: I forgot to address the aftermarket thermostat. As just about everyone on this forum that has had to deal with aftermarket thermostats will tell you... they are bad news. And I would recommend that you find an OEM subaru one ASAP. Have you tried the online subaru store?

First, did you replace the thermostat with a OEM subaru one? Aftermarket ones are notorious for causing problems. Second, this could be the thermo sensor... I have heard of those things causing issues when they go out. Third...is the carb a hitachi?

So this is kinda one of those questions that has an answer that is either a really obvious "yes"or a resounding "NO"... Can I delete my ECS canister without experiencing ill effects to my now happy hitachi? I'm a good 90% sure that the canister doesn't work anyway, but then again maybe it has some hidden benefit that it has been giving my engine? So what do you guys think?

Well yesterday I refitted the carb that Ferox sent me and got the new gaskets on. No more jerking but it is running rich so im gonna have to adjust the float. I think the thing that controls the choke plate is messed up as well. Also my main jets are leaking a few drops of gas because like an idiot I forgot to put the washers in . After those adjustments, and a little more fine tuning and emissions deleting I should be sitting pretty.

Nice bug bra you got on that baby. in fact BEAUTIFUL wagon all the way around!

Amen, Dave... amen.

Sounds like a plan Ferox!

It could be the clutch cable is old and stretching (In my experience, usually a sign its about to snap) .. if the cable does need to be replaced, I'm pretty sure you can still get OEM clutch cables from subaru for 86 GLs. Do not get an aftermarket one that is not made by Subaru. Or if you do, don't get one made by Pioneer Cables (I cant speak for other aftermarket suppliers). I got one from them and it snapped in 4,000 miles. (original one lasted 163,000)

Ok so I asked a while ago if it was possible to do wheel bearings without a press and the answer was a definite yes. So probably in June, maybe July, I will be getting them done. I have never done them before but I am very confident in my abilities. I can take a Hitachi carb apart almost blindfolded because ive done it so many times trying to locate my annoying problem . So my line of thinking is, "Hey, wheel bearings can't be half as bad as the Hitachi!". Anyways, I will be gathering info through this thread in the coming weeks so I know what to expect before I go in there. So to start off, I have two questions: first, is this grease suitable? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=s9_simh_co_p263_d8_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=typ-top-left-1&pf_rd_r=0VMM53W26YNTRN8NPDZG&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=1827489602&pf_rd_i=typ01 Or should I use this grease? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYFSEDA?psc=1 Second, where is the best place to buy wheel bearings?

Ive actually taken my stock EA81 1984 wagon mudding before. These things are so light they skip right over the mud. I have also done rutted logging roads (that was a little sketchy with stock clearance.) and slept in the back. Although I had to sleep diagonally to stretch out all the way, I was still comfy and slept the best out of anyone on the camping trip.

Am I the only one confused by this comment?

UPDATE: Well after a few days of bliss, the problem returned. AP (accelerator pump) STILL wont work. Although the jerking is not as bad, because when I richened the mix, it made more fuel flow in to make up for the lost AP fuel. So since I cannot find the problem, (although at least I know it is the AP) I am going to simply replace the carb with one that Ferox gave me. I pulled the carb off my engine and as I was getting Ferox's carb ready to put in I realized that the gasgets had baked due to the heat generated (I donno why I thought that his wouldn't happen.) so now my soob is down until I can get the new gaskets from rockauto. After im done with this crap im going to delete the extra emissions that are on the new carb. Question: Is it possible to delete my ECS canister? Would I be able to just plug all the lines that lead to the canister? Or would that have ill effects on my sensitive hitachi? The reason I ask is because I don't think my canister works since the ECS light never comes on when I turn the car on. (before it came into my family's possession the previous owner went through and messed with all the electronics) P.S. Thanks for all your help guys!

ANNNNDDDD LOOOVVVIIINNNN' IT! haha lol.

i would kill to have 110hp! Try getting by with only 80! lol. just kiddin'. Looks like a real solid wagon! Are you gonna use it as a DD, or weekend wagon? , or a little of both? looks really clean! I see a little rust on the wheel wells... any on the underbody?

After many hours of grinding, priming, painting, and frustration... The wheels are on and they look fabulous! The finishing touches I did were armor all Extream Tire Shine, polish all Crome and aluminum, a good wash, and Thunderbolt wax. Enjoy! After pics

Well I have been working hard on bandit lately. I finally got a chance to take off those rusty wheels and grind and repaint them the glorious glossy white that the used to be. I also saw some of the armor all custom shield on sale for $5 a can so I got two and sprayed my trim, bumpers, and grille to bring that black color back and so they would be protected from further damage by UV rays and the weather. So first off are the before pics. And like a moron I forgot to take a before pic of the back. So y'all are just gonna have to imagine a rear bumper that has seen 31 years of sun, rain, snow and wind. ????

To quote you Loyale 2.7, "fuel injection is a science, carburetion is an art."

To put it bluntly, Hitachis are a living hell of small parts and vacuum tubes. So yes they are hard to clean. Try sparying carb cleaner down the throat to see if that will help before you go in there. And when you do, make sure you have a clean station to take it apart on. and I recommend having a fellow mechanically inclined friend to help you, that way you have two pairs of eyes on eveything. Take it slow too. If you try to rush it you'll mess something up. Buy a rebuild kit too. (I recommended Walker kits) If you can get it tuned correctly, these carbs can be very reliable. Just don't rush, always refer to the diagram (or USMB) if you get lost, and you'll come out of the the carb rebuild on top. God speed.

They dont make em' for the older dual square headlights like the ones on my 84 wagon do they? I might consider getting some if they did.

Technically, if you have the 4WD model, you have 80HP (not 72). Just sayin'

I saw one of these weber equipped models at a pickapart yard, when I saw the car I thought "oh awesome! they have an old gen subie! I will be able to find some parts after all!" I opened of the hood expecting to see that hitachi with 50,000,000 hoses coming out of it and I opened it up and I was like "What...the...crap?" haha figured out it was just a different model.