Sapper 157

Took the EGR off and it was caked in carbon deposits. Cleaned it all out and now im reinstalling

Naru, is the EGR vacuum line the big hose that connects to the EGR or the little one?

I just put fresh fuel filters in late last year. Yes the carb has fuel. So I guess it isn't vapor locking then. i am positive it is not a clogged jet because I JUST cleaned them when I did my carb rebuild. Just cleaned out my AAV and my EGR and am beginning to put it back together, maybe that will help? the EGR and its inlet where almost closed off with carbon build up. Rust, no I havent and will do that as soon as its put back together. Ferb420, No my exhaust and fuel pump are standard. My fuel pump has never been changed as far as I know, do you think I should get a new one?

EA81, Hitachi carb 1984 GL Wagon I'm sick and tired of this crap! Ever since ive been messing with my vacuum system (replacing hoses, trying to figure out EGR valve) this problem has gotten to the point where I dont even want to drive the car! As soon as it warms up at all, ill go to step on the gas and the rpms will climb for a split second, then fall either to 500 or below or die completely! When Im on the road it will lose powor or jerk violently unless I floor it and rev it high (4000 to 5000 rpms) A good friend of ours who has about 40 years of car mechanics under his belt says its vapor locking. does that sound correct? I just did a Carb rebuild a few weeks ago. What could it be? please help me before I go out of my mind!

To check if your current diff is LSD: 1) Jack up the rear of the car so that both rear tires are off the ground. 2) Engage 4WD 3) Spin one tire with your hand, if the tire on the other side of the car spins in the opposing direction, yours is a non-LSD. Learned this trick from MilesFox

Well I want to replace it because I have had various issues and I thought the carb may be the culprit. I just rebuilt my Hitachi so now im thinking its my my EGR is to blame. I thought you had to replace the EGR completely, didnt know that just cleaning it was a option, so maybe it just needs a good cleaning. Didnt know that the AAV was not required. I only assumed it was because when I unplugged the AAV hose from the EGR the engine immediately dies. No, im not sure the AAV works, I might replace that as well if its not too expensive. If cleaning doesnt work, I think I may just get an EGR from a junkyard like you suggested.

This is the part I'm afraid the new egr will lack. This little port circled in the picture connects to a hose which connects to my anti afterburning valve, which is required for my engines operation.

That does help. I am curious as to who one would go about cleaning it though. Do you just use an air compressor and blow out the ports? Or do you use some kind of chemical to clean it? Or a mix of the two?? Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion, but the problem is, I have really no desire nor the experience to do an egr delete. Nor would I like to figure out a weber, especially after I just rebuilt my hitachi.

Emissions? emissions?? hmmmm... Dont think that even means anything in Idaho, lol.

So im looking for a new EGR Valve and I went to rock auto and they gave me this as the cheapest choice: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3647412&cc=1268344&jnid=395&jpid=0 . Will this fit my 1984 EA81 GL Wagon? It says it will but the OEM part number that is on my old one is AEY78-12 and the OE number on the RockAuto one is A36139. Will it still fit? I have been looking for my old EGR's part number and have been unsuccessful thus far. Please, help me out here guys!

While that stuff is way cheaper than KBS per gallon, my only problem with it is that it doesnt say that it prevents flash rusting. which is my main concern and also what KBS is advertised to stop.

I have a friend who had a rusty, old, F-250 gas tank. He detached it from the vehicle then filled it with white vinegar, waited a week, then dumped it out, and then to be sure he got all the crap out he repeated the process a second time. Now when you look down the nozzle the tank is so clean its like looking in a mirror.

So my friend's family owns a junkyard and they recently acquired a late 80s Subaru GL wagon that was totally trashed in every manner possible (interior looked like a buzz saw went through it, engine compartment appears to have had a jug of oil explode within it, the paint job is a wreck, etc... ) The poor fellow had 245,201 as its final number on the ODO. (Taps playing in background) On the bright side, I got some great stuff for my own wagon. Back-up Ignition coil, front wiper motor, blinker dome, extra oil cap, ect, ect. I also grabbed the dead soob's coolant overflow container. Im not sure what year it was or if its an EA82 engine or part of the EJ series of engines but my question is: is it possible to make this overflow container work for my EA81 wagon(Which doesn't have one)? or is there some technical detail that would hinder the coolant overflows compatibility?

Just read your whole rebuild and I have decided I'm sending you my 84 Wagon. lol. Great job! Looks truly amazing!

Im really curious as to what the maximum miles is that you can get out of asubaru engine. So if you have/had an soobie that just refused/refuses to die, please post the year, model, engine model, and odometer, and whether it pooped out and what the cause of failure was, or if its still puttin' along today.

Changed my oil and my oil pan gasket in my 84' GL Wagon . spent my afternoon and into late evening yesterday rebuilding my Hitachi carb. He runs like a dream now!

Replacing the fuel filters might help things get flowing again. the two filters combined cost about $6 -$7 and can be replaced in a jiffy. Might not be the actual issue but might help. Good on you for saving a fellow 84 wagon.

Thanks, Tom. I'll check all that stuff out after school today.

Wow i am tired. I totally forgot to include my engine info, lol. yeah its an EA81 w/ hitachi carb

Ok so while changing my oil i discovered that there was a place where a air duct tube obviously used to go. after checking my repair manual, my suspicions were confirmed: it was my hot air intake system, long disconnected before it came under my family's ownership. This explains why my car hates cold mornings. Anyways, as i was looking into buying a new duct hose, a terrifying thought crept into my mind; the thought was that the last owner disconnected it because it was not working. I decided it would be worth a $10 hose to find out if it worked or not so i went ahead and installed it this evening. after getting up to running temp, i stopped, opened the hood and to my horror the baffle in my air cleaner box that is supposed to open when It gets to running temp was still closed, sucking the warm air from the exhaust manifold instead of the cooler air from the outside . So what should I do to fix this, so that the baffle opens and shuts when its supposed to?

Edit: Sorry guys my bad, accidentally double posted this topic. Please see other thread with same name.

Does it have a little button by the cassette player that says "pro"? try pushing that. for whatever reason, when im playing music through my wired cassette, if i dont press the "Pro" button its really quite. Dont know why it does this but maybe it'll work for you.

haha, yeah well the pivot bar has a brass-looking hue to it. Plus im no metal expert so to your average joe it kinda has the same appearance as brass.

Yep, we are pretty lucky here in 'Merica. I bought my walker kit from a site called FCP Import. Australia might be on the list of countries they sell in. Ya might be able to get a Walker kit or other walker products from them. Pretty cool site, they ONLY sell parts and kits for Subaru, Nissan, Toyota, Honda and Mazda.