Sapper 157

Oh crud, I just read the last part of your last message, sorry for the unneeded post

Okay here's what you do... First, remove the big wash locker thingy (sorry, forgot technical term) that keeps the pedal from falling off the brass bar. the blue arrow is pointing to it in the pic.. Now you should have enough wiggle room to get that smaller clevis pin (just to the left of the lock washer in the pic) off of the pedal/cable, because you will be able to almost completely take off the clutch pedal (when you do get the clevis pin off, you WILL be able to completely take off the pedal). Does any of this help?

Gotta love the simplicity of these cars!

Yep. On EAs it takes all of 10-15 mins to take off the pan if you know what you're doing. Getting the bolts in the back of the pan can be tricky, but doable.

Thanks for the tip! I looked them up and their kits were $50 cheaper and had the same contents as the Bosch kits on PartsGeek that I was looking at. Both me and my wallet thank you!

So yesterday, I casually went to turn off Bandit (84 gl wagon), and it would seem that he thought that was a pretty ridiculous idea, because I had to wrestle the key before it would finally shut off. Its been stiff for a while but its gotten bad lately, which leads me to believe the ignition switch is going out. How do I get the bugger off?

There should be a little lock washer thingy that goes over the bolt that holds on the pedal and cable. you can get the little bugger off if you use a flat head driver or some good needle nose pliers. after that, the pedal should just slip off.

The Blue Bandit (1984 wagon, EA81 ) has been having a few carb troubles lately and Im looking for a rebuild kit. Not really sure what I should be looking for as this will be the first time ive ever rebuilt a carb.(fiddled with carbs and taken simpler snowmobile ones apart but never a car carb) I have the confidence and enough mechanical know-how that I can do it (and if I do get lost I have plenty of friends with years of experience under their belts, not to mention this forum) But I need help finding the right kit.

So is there even a predictable life span for alternators? I still have the stock one and my rig has 166,600 miles on it right now. No signs its going out yet. But given the miles on it should I be wary?

I looked at KBS... looks like some good stuff. Did you buy the whole kit? and if so where and how much did it run ya.

What type of chemical spray/brush on rust removers do you guys use for surface rust? Ive been looking at Rustolems Rust Reformer but is there anything better out there? thanks!

Yeah aftermarket cables for these cars suck. I put one in and less than 3,000 miles later... SNAP. I replaced it with an OEM cable and man, I cant say enough about how smooth it is now.

Yeah I would say a new oil press sending unit would be in order. I just replaced mine and man, was my old one way off. in fact, it was so far off I thought the new one was broken! I dont think you actually have a oil press light because Im pretty sure we only have the idiot light or an OPSU... I dont think our older rides have both. Someone please correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure thats the way it works

ok that puts my mind at ease. thanks!!

crud, sorry I did a double post

I just hooked it up to the old wire that the old sending unit was plugged into. Im starting to think now that it actually may be functional because it will give me lower readings now when Im at idle. Not as low as my old one but better than it was. I thnik it could be that my old one was going out for a long time and was giving me the wrong readings and now this one is showing what my true oil press is. Question: is it possible to have oil pressure that is too high? What is the potential harm to having it high?

I did the first thing you said to do. When the wire is against the block, it gives me no reading (the needle drops below the 0). when away from the block, but not plugged into the sender it gives me a very slight reading (just on the 0). Disconnected from the sender the gauge says the same thing as I said previously (just on the 0). I think im gonna try looseing it a little... see if that helps.

Ok so I just put in an aftermarket CarQuest Oil sending unit and now my oil pressure is reading the maximum 75 psi ALL THE TIME. Even when Im running at normal temp and the oil is warmed up it still says my press. is at the max. Normally when im in 4th gear and at 2500 rpms the oil press. is about 45ish psi not 75. Anyone know why the sending unit would freak out like this? Is it just a defective unit or is there a certain amount im supposed to tighten the unit? (I tightened it until I couldnt get it any tighter) or somthing like that? Do these things have to be broken in?

welcome to the family! You can also use 75w-90 gear lube, which is synthetic instead of 80W-90 which is conventional oil. Both will work fine although I personally prefer to run synthetic oils and lubes through my rig.

If that is the original cable you should probably consider getting a new OEM one. When I took out my old one it had 161,000 miles on it and the previous owner never replaced it. I replaced that one with a Pioneer aftermarket cable that snapped after 3,000 miles and was really stiff. I now have an OEM subaru cable and my clutch is softer than a babys bottom, and my shifting is incredibly smooth!

check out this test that amsoil did http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G-Items/Performance%20Testing%20Archives/g3115-2013-current/index.html they tested several different synthetic oils and theirs came out on top almost every time. Now I know that companies will lie for marketing purposes, but after seeing this report and hearing almost no negative stuff about Amsoil, I think its safe to say that this test is accurate.

This is exactly what I was seeing on a lot of web sites and reviews of K&N: a lot of back and forth between the majority of people who say K&Ns rock and the people who have practically declared war against K&N. So, despite many of you heeding that I crusade against the marketing injustice of K&N, I did ended up buying the filter and am currently running it in my car. I know I have probably sent cringes up many of your backs, but honestly, after reviewing several lab tests by K&N and other independent test labs; and after hearing many a good word about K&N from a lot of people, both local and on the web, I decided it would be money well spent. My car now as a slight but noticeable gain in acceleration. Here are the MPG results for my car, with, and without K&N. Every morning I was performing this test I let my car warm up for exactly 3 minutes. I run non-ethanol 87 octane fuel and Quaker State Full Synthetic Advanced Durability 10W-30 in my car. I drive my 4 speed wagon at 55 to 60 mph on the highway with my tires full and I usually shift at around 3000 to 3500 rpms. When I filled up the first time with the paper filter, I got just barely under 26 MPG. When I filled up with the K&N filter, I got just over 28 MPG. As for filtration, its gonna be a while before I will be able to see just how effective K&Ns are in that respect. Although after reading several lab reports, I am not overly concerned that it will do poorly.

haha yeah like I said I was pretty sure there was no MAF on my car, being that there are so few electronics on my car to begin with. Thanks for offering, but I have already had my eye on the one that fits my car. I think I'll make the buy sometime this week since the general assessment from you guys is that they will be a good investment.

Ok quick google search and I found that the MAF is the 'mass airflow sensor' (learn somthing new every day) . Im pretty sure my car does not have one,(someone correct me if im wrong) although still a great tip not to over-soak the filter.

Um okay im still pretty new to subarus and mechanics in general. Im getting better, but still do not know all of the terminology, so you could please clarify for me what a MAF is?