Sapper 157

You might consider doing a quick oil change with some cheaper oil mixed with a few cups of MMO or Seafoam in with your fresh oil. Then do another oil change after a thousand miles or so... It should help clean some stuff out. Also wouldnt hurt to run a can of seafoam through your fuel system with some fresh gas (although maybe you already put fresh gas in and I just missed that??)

If its an 82 then yes, you have an EA81. First thing that comes to mind is that the valves are indeed stuck open.

Had any induction icing issues with that intake pipe like that? Personally, I think having to cut the hood of the car is quite a sacrifice. I’m perfectly happy spending $70 and getting a more powerful, more customizable Weber 32/36 where I don’t have to sacrifice my hood and don’t have to deal with as much fabrication. You have a cool concept, but honestly I think the Weber is a little more practical. Just my opinion... you can do whatever the heck you want for your car.

Off topic, but if you lost that much MPG i think something else might be at play. Did you advance your timing enough? Did you follow the mixture control settings properly? Is your jetting correct? After ten years, I’m sure your Weber could benefit from a seal change and a good internal cleaning.

Got the new struts today... They are definitely new-old-stock. They actually are pretty easy to compress by hand and they dont return to their top position very quickly. should I return them to RA and get those Gabriels instead? EDIT: after looking over them, I have realized they are entirely the wrong part (for a 2WD instead of 4WD) so I will be returning them and getting the Gabriel’s. The cheap route is always a risky route I guess.

Yes... but the theory is that the factory exhaust is restrictive, which causes unneeded back pressure. When the old exhaust system is upgraded so it is less restrictive, it causes a power boost because now the engine is not fighting that unneeded back pressure. That is my understanding at least...

In addition to putting a weber on there, you could try doing JeZeks custom muffler trick to free up the exhaust. Makers the car breath much better and should give you a little power boost. But yeah... Definitely get rid of that Craptachi. Take it from me, after fiddling with mine and rebuilding or opening it up probably over forty times, I was never able to get it to run right. So dump that piece of junk and get a weber as your first move. The weber is highly constomizable, modifiable, fixable, simple, and easy to find parts for.its everything that stupid hitachi is not. Just go http://www.carburetion.com or really anywhere else and you can find every part you will ever need.

With friends like that... who needs enemies? +1 what iceage said.

Thanks for the suggestion. My strut mounts look to be in good shape, (no cracks, tears, or splits) so I’m just gonna try replacing the struts with the new Monroe ones for now. But if that fails I might try your EA82 strut idea

Yeah RA has a few of those too... I’m thinking about going with a set of Monroe’s from RA just cause they’re really all I can afford.

Dang.... looks like Im gonna go with rockauto then. Should I replace the strut mounts as well? Or do you think they will be fine?

Cool. I was thinking this is probably the issue... any idea if a 85 GLs Struts are compatible? There is currently one here at the pick n pull in Spokane...

Okay, so after Blue's little adventure on the ice... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/166264-need-steering-parts-for-84-wagon/ I still have excessive positive camber on my drivers side front tire. So far I have replaced the radius/leading rod and its bracket, both rad rod rubber bushings, the control arm, the inner and out tie rods, the ball joint, the CV Axle, and i repaired the sway bar. My thoughts are either A. I bent my strut B. I bent my frame C. I bent/damaged my wheel hub D. A combination of A - C. None of the above items in A - C have any obvious bending or twisting to them... of course that doesnt mean that none of them are to blame. Anybody have any other thoughts as to what could be wrong before I go and replace my struts...

Okay thats good to hear! Maybe mine was just an isolated occurrence. Thanks for the response and for checking though!

http://s350.photobucket.com/user/SubaruMech/media/06A1E721-3DB6-4161-BE76-EA0548223A9E_zpskwa0awzr.jpeg.html?o=0 Was under the car today and discovered that both my engine mount bolts had worked themselves loose. )They are indicated by the red arrows.) I removed them, put some blue thread locker on, and torqued them to 40 ft lbs per my Haynes manual. I was curious if anyone else has experienced this? If so, this maybe something to be aware to check periodically for EA81 owners.

Sorry for the misinformation. Thank you for the correction. I was just quoting the specs from the Hanyes manual.

To summarize what everyone else has said: #1 Never go back to that shop again... If they dont know how to change the tranny lube on an 80s subaru, they are incredibly incompetent. These cars are literally the easiest thing in the world to do routine maintenance on (or just about any maintenance for that matter). #2 There is a 21mm drain bolt on the bottom of the transmission case. Remove it, drain the fluid. Reinstall plug and snug (torque spec is 33 ft-lbs if you care). Then add fluid thru dipstick hole using a long funnel. the fluid type is GL-4 75W-90 or GL-4 80W-90. it takes around 2.5 to 3 quarts.

I wouldnt spend that money on an OEM Just go with either a cardone select P/N 5573512 or an AISIN P/n WPF005 I have used both and the first lasted over five years, and then I replaced it with a cardone. EDIT: sorry the text is doing this wierd highlight thing, I copied the P/Ns from rockauto and cant firgure it out lol

UPDATE: okay so I decided to remove the corrosion on the rubber bushing part of the radius rod. it was pretty thick... .076" to be exact. I'm hoping that I can just weld a small section of steel tubing over the top of it to take up the lost material.

I think in the 90s Subaru changed their control arm set up, I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure 80-89 will work but starting into the 90s o think they changed their control arm setup. Somebody please correct me if I’m wrong...

I just had this happen to me in my 84 GL... I ended up getting a used radius rod, sway bar, and control arm at a pull n save. I would check the internet for pull n saves and junk yards in your area. That is probably your best bet as a lot of board members dont really have the time or really want to rip suspension parts off of their parts cars (assuming they have parts cars.)

I have a replacement radius rod now. I took off the rubber bushings since I will be replacing them with new MOOG ones, and I found a severe amount of corrosion on the portion of the rod that is covered by the bushings. I am a little worried that if I try to remove this corrosion, that I will end of removing that whole part of the rod. Should I just leave it the way it is and install the new bushings over the corrosion? of course the other side of this is if I do that, it may end of corroding to the point of failure anyways. Thoughts? Also, best method for removing control arm bushings? I have done a little searching on the forum, and it seems a lot of penetrate fluid, a propane torch, and an arbor press are in order. any other tips for getting those suckers out?

Cool thanks for the feedback!

EA81 I’m putting new tie rods on and I am getting MOOG for the inner tie rods but I am still undecided for the outer. Anybody have experience with Mevotech?

We Need more info: What is your engine type? What is your cars year? We need all the same info that you plug into RA before we can answer effectively