Sapper 157

So I’m gonna be doing my inner and outer tie rods in light of their current condition. Is there anything special about the inner tie rod removal I should know about? I assume it’s just like removing any other inner tie rod. I will need the inner tie rod tool right?

Wow that’s pretty smart! I Wonder what could be done to slow them down for those of us that have the too fast problem...

Lol I’m a moron. Yup that top one sure is the brake cable. Yeah the control arm is twisted so gonna need a new one. Would a 1982 wagons steering components be compatible? According to the web there is one at the pull n save here in spoky.... Thanks for the tip about that radius rod

Took a corner a little to fast last night and locked up the brakes. Slid and hit a curb, which did all this I bent my Control arm, possibly my strut, and inner tie rod The red arrows are steering parts that are bent and need but I don’t know what they are called. Anybody have a donor Wagon in/near Spokane that I could scavenge off of for not too much money? Or by chance does anybody have these parts on hand? I’m gonna look at pull n save but I don’t have much hope. Also, I am in A&P school so I’m on a pretty tight budget...

I got some nice Rockford Fosgate 4” that fit perfectly in my 84 wagon. I can look up the p/n if you want it

First thing I would check is your throttle linkages. Make sure the cable is not excessively loose

yes just plug it with JB weld

I'm trying to figure out what the posts go to internally in my alternator. I know the post marked BAT is the post that charges the battery, but im trying to figure out what the two terminals that the little plastic connector plugs into do. On the MFG plate on the alternator, it says the top one is "S" and the bottom one is "L". I'm guessing S is for Stator but I havent a clue what L means.

I have not had good experiences using just RTV on the oil pan gasket... but I had great success with the graphite + RTV gasket. i guess I could have done something wrong, but no matter how clean I got the sealing surface I would always have leaks at the oil pan gasket a few weeks later. You dont need the valve adjustment tool... just use a set of feeler gauges. You can get the hoses and valve cover gaskets on rockauto or at just about any autoparts store. You can get the gasket material on ebay for like $15. I would not use just rtv on the valve covers... In case you need to make more adjustments down the road. although I have coated the cork gaskets with a thin layer of RTV before and it sealed it quite well.

Might be your rear main.... could also be a transmission shaft seal. Has your clutch been slipping at all? With the engine out I would replace the following: Rear main (if it needs it, if you take the clutch off and it looks clean, just leave it alone) Reseal the oil pump (kits on eBay run for about $12... its well worth it and you will notice an increase in oil pressure if its never been done) Install new coolant hoses all the way around. Install a new water pump if it hasn't been done in the last five years... they are only about $20 for a new one. Tune up your valves Reseal your oil pan. I would recommend buying a sheet of graphite gasket material and using that instead of the cork ones. Also coat both sides of the gasket before installation Reseal the valve covers

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/?p=1362546 This has been covered quite a bit. You should find your answer in this thread... check the bottom post first.

Interesting, I have exact opposite problem. Mine wipe superfast even on the lowest setting.

In the aviation community, we use LPS-3, which is a spray on wax like stuff that prevents corrosion. CorrosionX is another good product, and has saved many rusting Cessnas by being fogged (sprayed as a dense vapor) into the wings... it makes an awful mess (it dries as a tacky goop) but it prevents current oxidation from getting any worse and prevents new corrosion from forming. Like anything in Aviation, both products are spendy, but it shouldn’t require much to do the wheel wells and underside of a small subie. Wash it often.

Are your referring to the fact that the EA81 wipers don’t really have a “slow” setting?

Cool. I didn’t think it would but figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask. Thanks Dave. You da man.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1984,gl,1.8l+h4,1268344,steering,power+steering+repair+kit,416 Looks like rockauto is all out... maybe try searching for the p/n on google? Edit: ouch. I tried doing an amazon search and the cheapest one was $87. I would recommend checking eBay for cheaper prices, but you probably won’t find much better

Okay that makes sense. How about running it off the battery? The kit came with two jumper cable type jaws for running it off a battery, shouldn’t be a problem to just run it off my battery right?

EA81 Got a small electric tire compressor as an early Christmas present and in the manual for the thing it says that is is for use with “modern 15A cigarette lighter ports... do not use with older 8A ports”. Went out and looked at my fuse for the lighter port, and it says it’s a 15A which means it’s probably the old 8A type port (not really surprised by this, since the car is 33 years old.) so my question is, does anybody know why they put this warning on it and if it would really hurt it to run it on it on my lower amp cig lighter? Other than running slower from the reduced current flow.

Jono you have a severe grammatical error in your post... you used the words “hitachi” and “tuned” in the same sentence, which we all know makes no sense at all.

I’d rather deal with lead than have to deal with the affects of using a cheapo intake mani gasket. From my experience, the aftermarket ones are made of some card board like material and are just plain trash. But I have never had an issue using oem ones.

That growl is incredible!

Smoking, oil, and clanking with RPM change? I would say thrown rod or something else major... Further inspection is obviously warranted, but all those things together sound really bad.

10W-40 Royal Purple Fram ultra synthetic filter 10w 40 is a good all around weight for the EA81. Just don’t use 5w30.

Or perhaps DaveT could give dimensions, materials, and pictures so the tool could be accurately fabricated?

It depends. Some models of the EA81 had hydraulic lifters, while most had solid lifters. Look on your valve covers, if you see a sticker that says “do not adjust valves” then you have hydro lifters and they require no adjustment. If you have no sticker, then you have solid and need to adjust them every 10,000 miles or so. Factory settings are .010” for intake and .014” for exhaust, however the lash can be taken down even more if you have ticking problems on a solid lifter engine.