Sapper 157

Yup. not a big deal. Which is another nice thing about the Weber... removal, installation, and disassembly are all a cake walk.

Yup. I can almost guarantee it will. That is exactly what happened to my adapter. I tried using RTV, and it would just melt it and cause a vac leak. my write up used to say to use RTV on that gasket a while back but when I kept having those issues with it I decided to switch to JB Weld, which has worked much better. It actually says on most newer RTV bottles something like “don’t use on carburetor, gas tank, or fuel pump gaskets.” Out if curiosity why didn’t you use JB weld?

Really good info and awesome mods to an already good conversion. I’ll pin this thread in my conversion thread. . Also, personally I put all my gaskets on dry, as I have had bad experiences with rtv and have found that it simply cannot hold up to constant exposure to gasoline. But that is more of a personal preference than a deal breaker though.

You can just add on to this thread and I can pin it into mine if you’d like... the only thing I would be concerned about is why you deleted your PCV system... that is a system essential to proper engine operation, as it vents harmful fumes out if the crankcase. Jezek gives a better explanation in his thread: “The engine needs an air Flow in and out of the Crankcase, not only to facilitate the crank's spin movement and release the pressure of the internals, but the purpose of this system, is mainly to take the harmful acid vapors Outside from the engine's internals, by routing those harmful acid vapors thru the P.C.V. valve at the intake Manifold, making possible that said vapors could be sucked by vacuum and Burned along the Air / Fuel Mixture on the Cylinders during their normal cycles.” I would suggest routing your PCV system as both write ups suggest... otherwise prolonged operation without a PCV system could lead to decreased engine life

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/?hl=%2Bweber+%2Bconversion Here is my write up on the EA81 conversion... for an even more in depth guide and directions on exhaust mods, see Jezeks thread here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/

Good to know!

Welcome to the board! Very nice ride! I second djellums and robm comments about irridum plugs. Old Subaru engines really seem to despise anything but copper NGK. Plus, what I have heard (someone correct me if I’m wrong) is that copper actually gives a better spark than irridum or platinum... the advantage of irridum and platinum to my understanding is longer service life and that’s pretty much it. Anyways, I would recommend giving the coppers a try. Good call chucking that Hitachi peice of junk and getting a Weber. Drivability, power, less of a chance for vac leaks, super customizable Tuning, and parts availability are all benefits in switching to the Weber. One last thing... personally, I would not recommend running 95 octane in your old scubie. (Unless the Australia Subaru’s are different) our rigs were recommended to run on 87 octane fuel, and you can risk hurting your engine if you run a higher octane.

Thermostat most likely... or bad rad/rad cap. I had this same issue with my EA81 until I replaced those three things. Now it runs cool as a cucumber. Make sure to use OEM tstat

Mine get louder once when they warm up too... thats the way a lot of solid lifter noise works. As the oil warms up and gets less thick, the valves get louder. Honestly, even after tightening them up, it is still ticks noticeably. But it has helped for sure

Try reading through here and see if this helps: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163497-ea81-ticking-lifter-possible-fix/?hl=%2Bticking+%2Bvalves+%2Bpossible

Can I just leave it uncapped / an open line then? Or do I have to run it into my charcoal canister?

I was gonna rip out my evap canister today because when I did my weber conversion originally I just capped all the ends due to being in a hurry. Today I realized that the fourth little tube goes down and into my firewall. Is this some kind of gas tank vent? I just want to make sure there's no harm if I remove my canister and cap this little line.

OK never mind I got it. I am a complete moron. I trace the wires that lead from the distributor… And found that The wires I was attaching to the ignition coil were only three of the required wires that need to be on there. So the wires that go to the distributor weren't even attached. It's official, I'm a dork. Sorry to waste your guy's time.

OK so I went in and did the test light like you said GD. I got a solid light on the both the negative and the positive... no flashing. I'm guessing this means that the wires are not finding the ground in the distributor, right? Which either means my ignition module is bad, or something else in my distributor might be haywire… Am I way off or is that what I'm looking at here?

Thanks for the help guys. I'll give those things a try after I heal up a bit from my stupid teeth

Okay I haven't gone out and tested it yet, but I just wanted to ask a theoretical question since I am just sitting here writhing in pain and had the time... While I was cleaning my engine bay, I tried to seal all The electronics with plastic bags, such as the alternator and the distributor. To seal the distributor, I put a plastic bag over the top of the rotor, and then put the cap back on and clipped it into place to make a sort of waterproof seal. Then I used Engine degreaser on all the greasy parts of the engine, trying to keep it away from the electrical components I had covered. Then I washed it down with some low-pressure garden hose water, again trying to avoid all electric devices. My question is, If I had somehow gotten water into the distributor, could that cause this issue? Thanks all for your patience.

Okay thanks for the helpful info gd.... I just had wisdom teeth pulled so I won't be able to get to it for at least a few days but I will let you know when I do. Also just so I understand, when you say test light you mean just a circuit tester light that I attach to ground and lights up when it gets power correct?

So I've got 12 V going to the black wire with the white stripe with the ignition on... but no volts at the fuse for the ignition coil. Thoughts? Is my ignition coil to blame? I suppose I really need to get a diagram of the ignition circuit to understand where those crafty atoms are going. I'm also getting 1.4 ohms of resistance from the coil ... I'm not sure if that is within spec or not. I've also got that other blac wire (the one that connects to a capacitor looking device and then grounds out on a bolt near the tire support rod bracket) hooked up to the positive sid of the coil.... should that be on the negative side with the yellow wire? I checked my distributor, and the rotor is tight and everything seems OK...

Yup and I should know better and that's why I'm really kincking myself for not doing that. I'll check the rotor when I get home from work... normally my tach jumps around a little bit when it is trying to start but when I crank the engine right now it th tach needle just sits there. So that makes me think that the electrons are getting stuck somewhere upstream... or I fried my dusty somehow... I'll update when I get home

It's still not firing. Any guesses what it could be? Could it be my distributor?

Thanks gd.... you da man

So I was doing a little cleaning of my engine bay and removed my ignition choil so I could clean it up and repaint it. Like an idiot I just unhooked the wires thinking "oh it's okay, I know my car... I'll be able to put them on right." Now my car won't start... it will crank and I can hear the fuel pump clicking, but no spark. So could someone remind me, do the two black wires with the white stripe go on the positive or negative terminal of the coil? Right now I have them on the negative... (because usually black = negative) I'm a little scared to just move them to the other side because if it turns out to be a different problem and they are wired correctly right now, I don't want to just start flipping wires around and start shoving volts in directions they are not supposed to go...

All vac ports can be capped except for the vacuum advance on the distributor. The only hoses coming out of the Weber are the vac advance for the distributor, the fuel line, the fuel return line, and the PCV hose

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/ Here is all the info you should need. There is a pic of my engine bay on the second post in the thread... that is what it should roughly look like when you're finished. There is also a Q/A form in that thread at the last post... if you have a question that is not answered there just let me know

Write-Up Update Several additions have been made to the condensed step guide for installation. Including directions for adding the hitachi wheel in the place of the weber wheel. The following is a Q/A guide to the most common questions asked by those converting their cars, or those considering conversion. Q: How much will a Weber conversion kit cost? A. The USMB price for the EA81 and EA82 Kit is $320. The average price on eBay is $220 to $300. Carbs have also been found on craigslist for anywhere from $40 - $200 Q: How hard is the conversion? A: The conversion is not difficult and can be completed by an entry level DIYer or mechanic, providing they have the proper basic hand tools and the needed materials. Q: What fuel pressure does the Weber require? A: The Weber must have NO MORE than 3-5 PSI of fuel. If the Hitachi Y fitting is used, then there should be no chance of over-pressurization of fuel. Q: Will my MPG increase or decrease? A: Generally speaking, a Weber that is properly tuned with the timing advanced will yield equal or better fuel economy. Realize though that the Weber provides a significant increase of fuel delivered to the engine. This is especially true if you floor it constantly, as this opens both the primary and secondary barrels. At most, you will see about 22 - 24 MPG with such driving habits. However, if smooth driving is maintained and the primary barrel is the only one used 80% or more of the time, you will see MPG similar or equal to that of your Hitachi. I get 26 - 31 MPH depending on time of year and driving conditions. Q: What is the base jetting recommended for Webers used on Subarus? A: For Old Gen Subies, the recommended jetting is: Primary Air corrector--- 170 Secondary Air Corrector- 160 Primary Main Jet--- 140 Secondary Main Jet- 140 Primary Emulsion Tube--- F50 Secondary Emulsion Tube- F50 Primary Idle Jet--- 55 Secondary Idle Jet- 50 Remember, this is the BASE jetting, and your car may like something a little different. But thankfully, the weber is one of if not the most customizable carbs ever built, and jet kits are available on ebay for $50 -$70 Q: Is it difficult to tune the Weber? A: Although I have only dealt with a few carbs personally (2BBL Hitachi, 4BBL Rochester and this Weber) the Weber is without a doubt the simplest and most rewarding carb I have ever tuned. They were built to be easily tuned, so they are really a breeze. Q: Will the taller air filter fit? A: It has been reported that the taller airfilter will fit on the EA82. There has been mixed success with the EA81. Some hood adjustments may be necessary. It barely fits on my 84' GL, and rubs the hood only a tiny bit. QWhat are the P/Ns for the EA81 and EA82 Kits? A: EA81 = K730 EA82 = K731 Q: Where is the built in filter screen located on the Weber? A: The screened filter is located under a large brass plug just forward and underneath the fuel inlet fitting. It must be serviced every time you change the plastic (EA81) fuel filters or the metal (EA82) fuel filter. Or whenever the carburetor is rebuilt. A 19mm or 3/4" wrench or socket will remove it. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT. Q: What do I do with my EVAP canister? A: You can either cap all the ports, except for the smallest tube that leads into the firewall. Or you can get rid of the canister, and just put a small fuel filter or something similar on the smallest tube that goes into the firewall. That tube needs to stay open as it is a vent for fuel tank. Q: What should I set my timing to? A: For EA82s, 20 degrees BTDC is recommended. For EA81s, 15 -18 Degrees BTDC is recommended. You will need a timing light. Q: Where do I get an EGR blocking plate? A: I just removed my EGR and traced the back of it onto a piece of .040” 5056-T3 aluminum and then cut it out with a die grinder cutting wheel. If you don’t have access to such materials (I am currently in college becoming an A&P mechanic so the supplies were readily available) then you can order one online. The part number for one that I know of is: R66M-70978 https://www.ebay.com/itm/151393859173 Q: Where do I get the throttle bracket for my Weber? A: The P/N for the bracket from Weber is 99903.962, other members have also made their own with great success.