Sapper 157

Yeah here they are: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6586008&cc=1270134&jsn=396 Have you tried these?

Doesnt rock auto have some Heavy Duty axles of some kind??

Okay thanks... by the sounds of it, he is gonna move on as he does not have the cash, tools, time, space, experience, etc. to do a HG change right now. The search goes on. Thank you for your advice wtdash!

Hello new geners! My older bro is looking into buying a 2005 Impreza with a EJ25i with 124,000 miles on it. Timing belt was just done HGs have not been done. Regular oil changes at 3k and 4K miles. Only one small rust spot He didn't really check for oil leaks but he said the oil was halfway down from the full mark... so maybe the rear bell housing oil seal is crapping out? I'm not really sure what to tell him since I am really only knowledgeable about the outdated EA81. What are some concerns he should have with this engine and car? Were HGs still a huge issue with the 2.5i? The owners are asking $5,000 and he says they are a nice couple that doesn't seem to be trying to screw him over.

If that doesn't work I have plenty of spare throttle wheels.

Dude you need a secretary... or maybe more like five.

No offense intended but your mechanic is mistaken. Piggy backing on GDs post, a properly tuned Weber will give up to 30+ mpg hwy regularly and 25-28 in town. My average since installing my Weber in January is 25.6 mpg... but that is because I was doing a lot of warm up time in the winter, and the carburetor wasn't properly tuned. Now that the weather is nice and warm and it's tuned correctly, I get 26-28 around town, and 31 on the hwy, providing I don't gun it. As long as all other tune up stuff is good (clean fuel filters, no vacuum leaks, NGK spark plugs ONLY and NGK spark plug wires ONLY, clean disty cap terminals and rotor, timing advanced to 12ish degrees, valves tuned, and ignition coil in good condition) then really the Weber's mpg will depend almost entirely on how you drive it. It does give a small power boost over the Hitachi, so it's tempting to floor it constantly to open up that second barrel, but your gas mileage will go wayyyy down. So the moral of the story is drive it nice and it will do just fine mpg wise. As far as why you are getting only 19 mpg right now, more than likely it's a vacuum leak coming from one or several parts of the Hicrappies mind bogglingly complex vacuum system. All of which you can cap off and eliminate as vac leak sources if you do the Weber swap.

I would more say that they are considered one of the worst carbs ever made. They are overly complicated, difficult/impossible to tune, and are plagued with vacuum leaks. I would not get a new one from eBay... I really doubt that the Japanese version is any better. I spent hundreds of dollars trying to get mine to work right, but was always unsuccessful. You will find many people here with the same story. Get a Weber. They are worth every penny, and you'll spend a lot less on a new Weber than you will trying to get that piece of junk working again.

sweet. thanks for your help GD and naru. I will readjust them and be sure to check them more regularly.

haha what a great visual . I'll try tightening them up... why on earth do you suppose they would set the specs so loose?

Solid Lifter EA81 Since I did an engine reseal last summer (2016), I have had a very annoying tick coming from the passenger side rear of my engine block (so cylinder #3). I replaced the oil pump, push rods, oil pan gasket, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals (done in October of 2015), etcetera, etcetera. This ticking has completely baffled me, because I did not touch the lifters at all. (Other than get new push rods to replace the bent ones). I have readjusted them to spec (.010" intake .014" exhaust) countless times, and yet the tick continues. My theory is that since this was the second time I have resurfaced my heads (I did my HGs in october of 2015 as well), my heads have lost enough material that there is more slop. Is this a viable theory? I have done some searching here on the forum, and have turned up several threads about solid lifter ticks... there seems to be a consensus that a person can tighten them up a couple thousands of an inch to take up extra slack. The difference that I am worried about is that most of these guys seem to have had their cam shaft reground, which is not the circumstance with me. Anyways, what do yall think? Could I take a thou off each valves clearance and see if that takes up the slop? Here on some of the threads I used for reference: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110933-odd-noise-after-engine-work-ea81/?hl=%2Bea81+%2Blifter+%2Btick&do=findComment&comment=931599 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108408-another-noisy-ea81-thread-solved-with-some/?hl=%2Bea81+%2Blifter+%2Btick&do=findComment&comment=910808

Awesome. Thanks for the fast response!

So awhile ago I replaced my old four blade electric fan with a flex-a-light 10 blade fan. The one problem is that since installing the fan, I have been unable to use my block heater, because the fan offers no room to plug the cord into the element in the block. I was thinking, if I reversed it and put it on the front of the radiator and rewired it so it pushed air instead of pulled, that would solve my block heater issue. anybody ever tried this? Any potential/theoretical problems that could develop by doing this?

Drive her nice and easy. Driving habits are number one for fuel consumption IMO. Use MMO (Marvels Mystery Oil) regularly in your gas. Keep the fuel filters changed on a regular basis. Play with the timing a little and see if advancing it a few degrees gives you better burn. Use only NGK wires and plugs. Make sure your thermostat is working properly and is an OEM one. Make sure the float level is dead nuts in the center of the carburetor bowl. Make sure tires are filled to correct psi at all times (I usually fill mine to 40psi).

This subject has been covered dozens of times. The general consensus is that the EA series really don't care what kind of oil you put in them as long as it's above 30 weight. HD 40 would work fine. But so would just about any other 40 weight oil. I use 10w 40 royal purple, but that's just cause I find it more cost effective since I can extend my oil changes.

Awesome thanks!

I use 10W 40 all year round... 30 is probably a little light... especially with the increased temps you probably see in Texas

So I'm servicing a rocker arm that I had lying around and I was wondering if the direction of the spring washers matter? Also, inspection wise, what am I looking for? Are there any specific tolerances I should check with a micrometer? Wear looks pretty minimal.... there are some scars but they're not super deep... maybe four or five thousands of an inch.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/?hl=%2Bweber+%2Bcarb Here are the condensed steps for a Weber conversion for an EA81

Don't buy from the USMB... The purchasing software doesn't work properly and won't let the seller know that you have bought something.

I have had good luck with AIRTEX

I swear by my EA81. Besides the crappy stock carburetor, the engine is incredibly reliable. They are simple, easy to work on, and will take heaps of abuse. But as reliable and tough as these little engines are, they are no means powerhouses. As stated by another forum member, with the EA81, you won't be the first to get there, but you'll get there every time. However, no matter how much you modify the crap out of a these little engines, an EJ swap will remain the cheaper option and will get you more HP then you could ever get out of the little EA81.

+1 for making sure you have correct jets.Look into this link... there should be a trouble shooting guide near the bottom http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/?do=findComment&comment=1347335

Never been there personally, but I think pull n save is one of the only places in Spokane...

I would like to build one that is similar to the factory one. Do you think you could provide a few specs? Like how long the top bar vs the bottom bar is? And how far between them? Also, which material should I use? I was thinking 6061 T3 aluminum, since it is close to as hard as steel and is very weldable, and would also keep the weight down.