Sapper 157

Check out step 4 of the installation procedure http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161649-ea81-weber-conversion-writeup/?do=findComment&comment=1347335You're supposed to seal the coolant passage with JB weld or use traditional welding to shut the hole

Should be on the front of the motor right under the distributor cap facing up...

So my buddy has a 2002 forester and both outer cv boots are blown on both Axles, and the bearings are getting pretty worn (I think he's been driving it with the boots blown for quite a while). I was wondering what opinions are on aftermarket axles? I looked on rock auto and found these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3854955&cc=1378739&jsn=359 Are these any good?

Depends on who you talk to... what engine is it for? If it's an EA81, get rid of it. It's pointless and after 30+ years most of them, if original, don't work and aren't worth replacing. The pros would be one less thing cluttering up the engine compartment, and decreased vacuum leaks, and all the cons are purely theoretical as far as I can see. Supposedly your engine will run a little hotter around the valves, but I'm not sure how accurate that is. If it's an EA82... I'm not sure what the advantages or disadvantages would be.

when you say nothing is connected, do you mean the choke isn't connected? If so, then just use the old hitachi choke wires for a 12V ignition source and connect one of them to the choke. I would try a compression test on the bad cylinder. FYI it's Weber with one b not two.

I also found this link to a Weber troubleshooting guide. I thought it might be useful for diagnosing some of the common quirks that may come up with the Weber http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf

Pure. Genius.

A word of caution on removing the oil pump. DO NOT PRY ON IT. I'm sure this is obvious to most but when I was resealing my oil pump, I it was very firmly pressed in and so decided to use a pry bar and one cracked oil pump and $100 later, I discovered you're just supposed to wiggle it out gently. On the bright side, I have a new oil pump and my oil pressure is amazing!

Here is some info I found on Redlines website regarding Weber tuning. They say not to use a tuning instrument, however I find that I can tune all my carbs a lot more precisely by using a vacuum gauge hooked up to the manifold vacuum. So I will give the instructions that I recommend when using a vacuum gauge, then I will give Weber's instructions. 1. Ensure carb is set at baseline settings (2 turns out on mixture screw, 1 1/2 turns in on idle speed screw) 2. Using a 10mm wrench or ratchet, loosen the distributor bolt and advance the timing by turning the distributor to the right. You should see the vacuum increase and be able to hear the engine increase in RPMs. This step can also be done after your tune up, but then it is a good idea to reset the carb back to its baseline settings and retune it. 3. Warm up engine... it might run a little rough, but don't worry that's normal. 4. Hook up vacuum gauge to intake manifold (there should be two ports that were used for the Hitachi right on top of the manifold... I used the one that is closest to the carb on the left side) 5. With the engine warmed up, start turning the mixture screw out slowly. You should hear the engine smooth out, and you should see your vacuum climb from a shaky 14-15lbs to a rock solid 16+lbs. 6. Keep turning the mix screw out until you see a drop in vacuum... then screw the mix in for a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, or until your vacuum returns. 7. You can disconnect the vacuum gauge now and cap the port. 8. Now set your idle screw per Weber's instructions 9. Throw your car in gear and enjoy the increased HP, and overall drivability of the mighty Weber! Weber's Tuning Instructions Base line Settings Speed Screw 1 to 1 and 1/2 turns Mixture Screw 2 turns Your settings with engine running Speed Screw______________ Mixture Screw______________ It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly. CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING. SET UP ADJUSTMENTS Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed. All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.) Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns. Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 2 full turns. TUNING BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point. The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings. To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW. Simple Rules for low speed calibration If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed. EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet. The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability. The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later. If you should need to call REDLINE for technical assistance we will need to know your final settings to help. Technical assistance is free for the first 60 days of purchase. Units in service over 60 days may be assessed a service fee. All charges will be noted up front after a brief consultation to determine any possible defect. If the carb is out of the warranty period and no defect is determined we will estimate the possible cost of tech support or recommend literature available that may help.

Finally got the Weber running! Also did a full brake job. Had fun doing some drifts in the fresh snow today!

Figured I do a quick update. So the ASV system is deleted, got the new throttle cable in, ( old one broke when I tried to move it to its new location ) started it up and it runs great! Feels so good to have a steady idle again! I'm pulling a solid 16 inches vacuum so that's good. The only thing I have left to figure out is get my brakes all taken care of and then my baby should be on the road again.

Thanks for your help Dave! Also thanks to Trident and grossgary for their help as well! Yeah it looks like my little rubber caps fell off along time ago, and I'm sure that contributed to any clogging that has likely happened as well. Anything special I should know about replacing the cylinders? Looks to me like I just pull the bolts off, pull the metal line off, pull out the cylinder, put in the new, and then torque up the bolts. And then of course bleed the system.

Update: so I got the square tool, pulled out the old stuff off again, put the new stuff back on again, turned in the piston in just a few minutes, and now everything is all back together. As for my rear brakes, I broke off a bleeder screw on one trying to get it loose because of all the stupid rust. And I think the other cylinder is faulty anyways because it seems to be leaking, so I ordered new cylinders and they should be here on Thursday.

UGH I can't believe that I've been trying to compress that stupid thing this whole time! I just assumed the front calipers were the same as every other front caliper on other cars, yeah I'm pretty sure the toilets at the damage it bent it but oh well… Do I need any special tool in order to screw it in?

Okay so here it goes... First time replacing brakes, and I got all the hardware on my rear drums successfully, but didn't install the drums (they were getting resurfaced) Went to the front, and got the new rotor and pads on, but could not for the life of me get that dam piston to depress. I even bought a compress tool for brakes and it just bent it. So since I couldn't get anything to fit, I took off all the new stuff and put back on the old rotor and pads... Now is where it gets stupid... I went to push in the brakes (can't remember what my logic was) and now my rear cylinders are pushed so far out they have pushed off the rubber caps. What the heck did I just do? And how do I correct it?

Sorry that was supposed to be just a comparison pic... the top spring flew off when I went to take the pic.

So it's my first time doing drum brakes and I'm a little confused. The first side I took off I forgot how the return springs went, so I just followed my Haynes manual and put the springs in behind the shoes as in the picture. However when I took the other side off, the springs were on top of the shoes. Does it matter which way they go?

Here are a few pics for referance: What the engine compartment will look like before the conversion: All that can be removed during the conversation (EGR can also be removed but is not pictured) What your engine compartment will look like after the conversion (sorry for the poor pic):

Okay, bear with me as this is my first write up, but here are the simplified steps to converting an EA81 from a Hitachi carburetor to a Weber carb... feel free to add anything i missed, and as always, referr to Jezek's thread if you dont find what your looking for here. EA81 Hitachi to Weber 32/36 Conversation NOTES: These instructions are for a no AC, non power steering 1.8L EA81; variations may apply to those engines equipped with said add ons. The author takes no responsibility for misinterpretation of these directions and the consequences thereof. These are general guide lines that apply to all older Subarus equipped with the 1.8 liter EA81 engine. However, most steps will apply to the EA82 engine. There are some unique differences between the EA82 and the EA81, so if you're doing a swap on an EA82, please go to JesZeks thread here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Even if you are doing a swap on a EA81, I highly recommend looking at his thread, as he includes things which I have not covered in this write up, such as fabricating and installing a free flow muffler. Terms: PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. The PCV vents harmful gasses away from the engine. It is found on the backside of the intake manifold next to the EGR. EGR = Exhaust Gas Readmission valve. The EGR is an emission valve used to recirculated unburnt fuel vapors from the exhaust ASV = Air Suction Valve. A useless emissions system that is supposed to suck cool air from the air box into the catalyst converter. It is easily identified by the large plastic silencers that attach to a shiny pipe that screws into each head. 12V Ignition Source: Any wire that has no more than 12 volts running through it when the ignition is on. Throttle wheel: This is the part that the throttle cable (cable that goes from gas pedal to carb) hooks onto and controls the carburetor linkage shaft, which controls the butterfly valves, which ultimately controls the amount of fuel/air that enters the engine. You will need: 1) Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor 2) Single Piece Adapter for EA81 3) Weber throttle cable bracket 4) Assorted rubber vacuum caps 5) JB Weld 6) Metric socket set and wrenches 7) Vise grips 8) Two quarters (.50 cents) or equivalently sized change or metal 9) A cutting device of some kind (hacksaw, Dremel, Sawzall, metal bandsaw, etc.) 10) Hitachi throttle wheel and washer 11) Nitrile/chemical resistant gloves 12) Carburetor cleaner/rags 13) Hose clamps 14) 4ft of 5/8" diameter rubber heater hose tubing 15) 1ft of 3/8" diameter fuel hosing 16) 1ft of 5/8" diameter vacuum hosing. 17) 5/8" plastic tee with a 3/8" contour CRITICAL THAT IT HAS A 3/8" CONTOUR!! 18) Drill with 1/2" drill bit 19) A few electrical connectors 20) Optional: Torque wrench, hi temp gasket maker, multimeter, egr Delete plate Install preparation: It is recommended that you replace the following in preparation for your Weber if they have not been done recently: spark plug wires, spark plugs, (use only NGK on both), distributor cap, distributor rotor, (be sure to use dielectric grease on all the connections), check battery and replace if old, check timing, if a solid lifter engine tune the valves, and change both fuel filters. I also personally HIGHLY recommend that you replace the throttle/accelerator cable, because after plus or minus 30 years, the plastic sheath that encases the cable has a tendency to crack and break when moved to its new location. In order to achieve maximum performance from your carburetor, you must take the throttle wheel off of your Weber and install your Hitachi's throttle wheel in its place. to do this, gently remove the nut on the Hitachi and the Weber and wiggle the throttle wheels loose on each carb and remove them. Take the washer that was on the Hitachi shaft and place it on the Weber shaft, (apply a tiny bit of grease on the washer before install) Then slip the Hitachi throttle wheel on shaft and re-tighten the shaft nut. WARNING! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN NUT!! LINKAGE BINDING AND SHAFT DAMAGE MAY OCCUR!! To prevent this, tighten the nut until it is finger tight, then tighten one more flat of the nut with your wrench. Check the linkage for binding by working the shaft with your hand. If there is binding, loosen the nut and reinstall it at an even lower torque. Your Weber will still run without the hitachi wheel, but the Weber wheel allows for only enough travel for the primary carb barrel to open. This means you are losing roughly 40% - 60% of your possible power. Accelerator Cable P/Ns 4WD Models with EA81: PIONEER CA8609 ATP Y639 Non-4WD w/ EA81: BECK/ANRLEY 0950494 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Removing the Hitachi1. Remove Hitachi Carburetor and all associated vacuum hoses2. Plug all Hitachi vacuum ports and remove unnecessary metal lines beneath intake manifold. 3. It is highly recommend that EGR be removed and plugged. Here is the P/N for a delete plate if you cannot make one yourself out of aluminum. P/N: R66M-70978 4. Plug the carburetor coolant passage in the intake manifold with JB Weld. 5. Plug the coolant line leading to intake manifold with JB weld a cap with vacuum cap to ensure a tight seal. (The inlet is found on the metal pipe that leads to the water pump; it should be directly under the alternator.) Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Setup Link to 5/8" tee with 3/8" conture: "https://www.finditparts.com/products/596808/dorman-47147?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K596808&gclid=CjwKEAiA79zDBRCgyf2FgeiY-CESJABzr0BMo_otGbsQpbhMdDjmHM3Cs_I-O0hmXJbpxDmXr_fndRoCPsrw_wcB">https://www.finditparts.com/products/596808/dorman-47147?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K596808&gclid=CjwKEAiA79zDBRCgyf2FgeiY-CESJABzr0BMo_otGbsQpbhMdDjmHM3Cs_I-O0hmXJbpxDmXr_fndRoCPsrw_wcB This can be found at any auto parts store... the link is just so you have a picture for reference. 6. Route the PCV line from the RIGHT head (drivers side) to one of the 5/8" sides of the chamfered tee. 7. Connect the other 5/8" end of the tee to the PCV valve. 8. Drill hole in the bottom air box plate big enough for the 3/8" hose or a fitting to hold the hose. (I used a 1/2" threaded plumbing fitting with a 3/8" barbed hose adapter) 9. Connect the 3/8" end of the chamfered tee to the bottom air box plate using the 3/8" hose 10. Connect the LEFT (Passenger side) 5/8" breather hose to the provided 90 degree tee that comes with the kit. This tee should be secured to the predrilled hole in the bottom of the airbox Mounting the Weber 11. Clean off intake manifold and adapter mating surfaces using carburetor cleaner and rags (use 320 grit sandpaper if necessary) 12. Optional: coat mating surfaces and gasket in JB weld before installation. This will eliminate any chances of vacuum leaks and after all, youre not going to need to take off this adapter again unless you want to go back to the hitachi for some weird reason. A and if you ever need to transfer the carb to another car, a few blows with a soft faced mallet should break it free. 13. Mount adapter plate on intake manifold. Tightening in criss cross pattern, torque the 8mm hex bolts to 12 ftlbs or until reasonably tight. (Recommended use of blue thread locker) Note: some members have welded their adapter plates on to completely eliminate vacuum leaks. If you are confident in your TIG welding abilities or know a good welder, this is certainly an option. 14. Screw the large studs into the top of the adapter (DONT USE THREAD LOCKER ON STUDS!!!) 15. Make sure carburetor and adapter mating surfaces are clean and dry. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE JB WELD ON THESE SURFACES. USE JB WELD ONLY ON THE ADAPTER/INTAKE MANIFOLD SURFACE... NOT THE TOP OF ADAPTER TO CARBURETOR SURFACES. 16. I personally don't recommend coating the carburetor-to-adapter gasket with any kind of gasket maker/sealer... in my experience with carb gaskets, they cause more leaks than they prevent 17. Remove the brass "Y" shaped fuel inlet from the Hitachi carb and install on Weber carburetor. 18. Mount Weber carburetor on studs. 19. Mount throttle cable bracket on rear studs. 20. Tighten nuts on top of spring washers in criss cross pattern. 21. Mount the bottom air box plate to the weber and secure with provided bolts. 22. Hook up PCV system. 23. Wait 24 hrs for JB Weld to cure, then hook up the main fuel line and fuel return line to the Hitachi Y-shaped fuel inlet 24. Hook up electric choke and fuel cutoff solenoid to 12V ignition source (Test them first, but usually the connections to the old Hitachi choke can be used) 25. Connect the Weber's right vacuum port (should be under the choke) to the distributer vacuum advance (the vacuum port on the brass fitting mounted on the distributer) using the 1/4" vacuum hosing 26. Place the top air box plate on the air filter element and secure the two plates 27. Use your Hitachis throttle return spring as your Weber's return spring (or you can buy one at any autoparts store for a couple bucks). Finding a place to hook the other end can be a bit tricky, but I found that hooking it to a hose clamp near the Hitachi works well. Deleting the ASV System The ASV system is not a needed or required emissions system, so it can be deleted and plugged. The following steps will illustrate how to remove and plug the system. 1. Follow the steel pipe on each head to where the ASV connects to the exhaust Y-pipe underneath the engine. 2. Use vise grips or a large wrench in combination with PB Blaster to break the fitting loose. 3. After you have removed the fitting, loosen the bolts that hold the upper part of the pipe assembly on to the engine block 4. Remove ASV assembly 5. Use your method of cutting to cut the end off of each pipe and remove the hollow bolt that screws into the bottom of each head. (This is the one you needed the vise grips for in step 2) 6. Take a quarter (as in .25 cents) 7. Optional: coat quarter with Hi temp gasket maker to ensure complete seal 8. Place quarter into hole in the bottom of the head. 9. Screw in the hollow bolt until tight You are officially done with the installation of your Weber conversion!! Your next step is to tune it for best lean idle, and to advance the timing. I have my timing set to 18 degrees BTDC. See a few posts down for instructions on that process. For more information on this conversion and for advice on how to modify the exhaust system to get even more out of your Weber, see Loyale 2.7 Turbos post on his EA82 Weber conversion. My guide here are simply the condensed steps, while he goes more in depth. I would HIGHLY recommend you study his thread thoroughly! "http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/">http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ For additional mods to make your car even better, or if you want a different way of routing your accelerator cable in place of the Weber cable bracket, see Knucklehead Saloons post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165020-goodbye-pingtashi-hellooooooo-weber/?p=1370223 If you found this write up helpful please let me know! If you have a question or something is unclear, PM me or just ask it on this thread.

What in the world??

Awesome! Thanks for the quick response!

Weber is finally on! Just got to figure out what to do with the stupid ASV system.

I did a recent Weber swap, and I'm considering removing the ASV system. I have a question though that needs some expertise or previous experience. Will removing the ASV system hurt or damage my Catalyst converter? I wish I could remove it, but certain local laws prevent me from doing so. My understanding is that the ASV system pulls fresh air from the air cleaner into the catalyst converter. Will closing off that fresh air source hurt the catalyst converter? Has anyone done a weber swap on an EA 81 and not remove their catalyst converter, but did remove their ASV?

Did you use a vacuum gauge to get your baseline tune correct? Search YouTube for how to tune a Weber. See if you can get anything from that

OK I lied. I have one more question about the ASV system. Will removing the system hurt my catalytic converter at all? Or be unhealthy for it?