Sapper 157

Okay sorry about that. I just read the part of JesZeks thread where he talks about fuel consumption... "Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure" That pretty much answer's my jetting question although I wounder if the EA81 would behave any differently?

Thanks for the help and awesome write up JesZek! As far as jetting and tuning, my understanding is that the Weber is extremely customizable (unlike the helltachi). What would the "standard" jets be for the Weber? and could I get jets that run it even leaner? The reason I ask is because I really want this car to retain its amazing MPG that it would get when the Hitachi would run right, which was not often. But when it did run right, could get 33 MPG on the highway reliably. I'm sure Ill see an MPG drop, but is there anything I can do as far as jetting that can reduce that? Also, I found this thread talking about the weber in relation to EA71s. Is all the info in here applicable to the EA81? Thanks for all your help guys and gals! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155339-advice-on-hitachi-to-weber-conversion/?hl=%2Bweber+%2Bconversion

Okay thanks for the tip... which one of Jezeks many threads would that be in?

After calculating the unbelievable amount of money I have spent on rebuild kits, spare carbs, and wasted time, I have come to the conclusion that it will be more cost effective for me to give up the battle with my hitachi carb. However, I am searching for a cheaper option than a brand new Weber.... does anyone have a gently used Weber and conversion kit that fits an EA81 that they would be willing to sell to me? Also, where are the main conversion threads on the USMB for the Weber? I cant seem to locate them. I would ask a boatload of questions that are swimming around my head but I'm guessing most of them will be answered in the conversion thread(s).

Okay, so should I not plug up the EGR with a steel or aluminum plate?

So I'm thinking of deleting the EGR on my EA 81. What are the possible effects of this? On these engines, does the EGR even perform a very big role? Will I noticed a drop in gas mileage? I assume that all one has to do is plug up the EGR pipe that leads from the passenger side head to the EGR itself and then also plug up the EGR with a steel plate of some kind. Is there anything else that I need to do to make sure that it's disabled? I've had it recommended by some of you before, but now I'm seriously considering it since it's been giving me so much trouble lately. Thanks for all your help guys

Ya know.... As a matter of fact, when I was tightening it, I did accidentally cross thread it... Do you think that could be the issue? I didn't think it would be a problem but I guess it would cause issues cause there is vacuum going through the egr isn't there?

Is there anyone here who has a shop or knows a shop in Boise, Idaho that works on old gens? I replaced the carburetor gaskets twice And while it did help, it is still acting like it has a massive vacuum leak and a misfire and I am at a complete loss as to what it could be.

Update. OK, so I owe a huge apology to all of you who suggested that it was the carburetor. Turns out I took it to the Subaru specialist, and he was more of a NewGen/EJ25 specialist. But he offered to poke around the engine anyways. We were checking all the different connections, and he came to the conclusion that it was not a misfire. Just for good measure He decided to spray some brake cleaner around the carburetor and you my idle returned and the click went away. So now it looks like I'm taking this doggon carburetor off again and going to be making sure that it never ever has another vacuum leak in its life. thanks to all for all of your help and support, and I'm sorry if I was a little bit frustrating to deal with at times.

I know that I know better, but I am capable of some pretty stupid stuff, and like I said I have checked everything else. All of this I have done except for the vacuum leak check, and the spark jump test, and wet fuel test. I have tried several different spark plugs, all NGK, and all of them are firing and working as they should. The cap and rotor are new and clean, and I have tried swapping them out with my old one and it does nothing. I rechecked the firing order literally a 100 times. I bought and installed a brand-new set of NGK wires and ohms tested all of them and they're all good to go.

sorry, accidentally double posted

Did a compression test today. Tester read it was running at about 149 on the Bad cylinder. Which at an altitude of 5000 feet, I think that is pretty good compression. So here's what I'm thinking… I think that while I was putting the intake manifold back on, or the carburetor back on, I might have left either a piece of rag or maybe a nut or bolt somewhere that is now keeping the fuel flow from getting to the cylinder. This is really my only other option, since Spark is OK and fuel seems to be flowing well. What I plan on doing is taking off the intake manifold and and blowing down it with compressed air, as well as sucking out with a shop vac. Just to be sure I did not miss anything I will reach down with a magnet head and see if I can retrieve any missing bolts or not. If this fails, I will be taking the car to our local superspecialist and hoping that he can find the problem. Also, it could be possible that when I cut the carburetor gaskets, I did not cut them correctly and maybe they're partially blocking the fuel flow. I don't think this is the problem but it could be.

What would make the carburetor only give fuel to three of the pistons though? I am going to try cleaning the carb again today, and I'm going to try taking off the intake manifold and making sure there are no obstructions that are blocking the fuel flow.

I replaced head gaskets, intake manifold gasket's, I rebuilt the carburetor, I got new pushrods, a new rocker arm for that side, but I didn't touch the rings or the pistons other than cleaning the top of the piston.

I can hear the cylinder clicking on number three. Also, when I remove the spark plug wire on the number three cylinder for some reason the clicking goes away however it runs a lot more rough. But that tells me that my problem is on cylinder number three. It's almost like his firing but not all the way, like maybe not enough you'll is getting to it.

So I realized today that when I pull the spark plug cable off, the ticking goes away, but it runs even rougher. any ideas what this could mean? I will try to get a compression test done soon.

Now im thinking it is either compression or fuel, because I put a brand new spark plug (NGK) in and moved the suspect wire to another plug and it is still having issues on #3... so far for ignition I have tried replacing the Coil Spark plugs Wires Cap Rotor I checked timing rechecked valves... three times checked the wires leading from cap to coil, and they are working Next I think I will check the grounds and see if there is something wrong there... if not, maybe there is a blockage in the intake manifold?? Maybe I accidental dropped a nut or bolt in it and it is blocking the fuel flow?

UPDATE: I may have failed to mention earlier, but the number 3 cylinder has a constant "clicking" when I do get it to run... One of my buddies says it is the piston failing to ignite, which I would agree with since it does not sound like a valve click (plus those are adjusted so it couldnt be them) Im not sure if that points to anything imparticular, but that is one of the symptoms I am experiancing. I am begining to think this may not be an igintion issue but a compression or fuel delivery issue... which is strange because all the other cylinders are getting fuel, and the carb seems to be trying to do its best to keep the darn thing running.

So I put the battery cables on the negative batt. terminal, and on the block to test, correct?

I replaced the plug with a brand new NGK, and I also ordered some new NGK wires. I tried switching the wire around, but even with the brand new plug, I still have a misfire on #3. I am thinking that the wire that runs from the coil to the cap could possibly be the culprit, because when I replaced my wires with the new NGK several months ago, for some reason the NGK wire that was supposed to go to the coil/cap was about half as long as it should have been to fit, so I just had to reuse my old off brand wire. I am also thinking that possibly the wires from the disty to the coil could be to blame, but im not sure about that. I might try replacing them just for kicks. I am running out of options here. I must have this car drivable in two weeks so I can return to college for next semester... but im running out of patience and time. Is there anything else that could possibly cause this misfire??

Okay ill try that next Cant be the carb. Im sure it is contributing to the jumby tach but not to my misfire. I have all the idle stuff adjusted almost to spec. I can hear the piston clicking back and forth because its not getting its fuel lit plus I pulled the plug and watched it spark and it was weak and yellow instead of white on the number 3 cylinder, so it is definitely an ignition issue. Yup. Brand new.

So I hit it with the timing gun, and it was a tad out of timing, but not bad at all... I did find that for some reason I have a misfire on Cylinder #3. It does have spark, it is just weak and yellow instead of bright white. So that is probably my problem. My NGK wires are only a few months old, and I did an omes test and all of them checked out. The coil is within the specified omes. I tried replacing the plug with a brand new Champion plug I happened to have on hand, and it didnt effect it at all so my plan is this: Get a new NGK plug and see if that helps.... If it doesnt... I have no idea what could be causing this. Maybe a wire grounding out somewhere??

Okay so I am about to go out and check the timing with a timing light... Lets just pray that this is what is wrong... I am sooooo done with this car

More like a tune up... I resealed a bunch of stuff but I didnt open the crank case at all so there was no need to take off the disty.