coronan

On my last build I used EA82 head studs on the EA81. Studs torque better than bolts. Steel thread on Steel bolt vs Aluminum threads in the block.

Photo dump. Check back for descriptions. Ford Edis control module I used a fuse as a means for a jumper. The module can run independent from the micro squirt when the jumper is removed. Mega squirt has info on their site of where to get parts at pick and pull or new. Crank wheel came from 98 Ford ranger. easy machining on the lathe the make it fit the Subaru crank pulley. Of i has to do it again, I might buy the wheel from DIY auto tune. Mounting the sensor is tricky. The only bolts near the crank pulley are the oil pump, and those need to seal. So I bolted to the large bolt on the head and on oil pan. Mixed and matched to save money. I got some parts from DIY auto tune,. Rock auto and pick and pull. I'm in for about $600

Keen eye skishop! I have actually tried 2 different wire configurations. MS tach output to yellow (ECU + Tach) and the 3 way splice. (Dizzy output + MS tach output to ECU + Tack input) That makes sense with the difference in signal coming from the dizzy vs MS. Next I will try clipping the MS tack output and just feed the ECU with the Dizzy. Bratman: I chose Microsquirt V3. It looked like the best bang for the buck. Thanks for the diagram but i cant read the wire colors.

Attempted to fix the Diagram photo.

Here is the wire diagram, I am using. Modifications are written in in pencil near the ignition coil. Wire Modifications to the Subie Harness at the old coil location. Including the mystery Grey wire with loop.

I know a few folks have dabbled with this but it does not seem to be well documented. I'll build this into a write up Once i get up and running. I Got my Microsquirt wired in. I'm starting with ignition only. Ford EDIS with VR sensor on Crank. I used power from the coil to close a new relay for the EDIS and Megasquirt. (black-white) I spliced together the Yellow Tack wire (subaru) to the Green Tack output from Microsquirt. The yellow wire used to come from dizzy and and go to the ECU and Tack. Fuel pump does come on. My tach bounces while cranking but I am NOT getting the injectors to open. Tuner Studio also sees the crank spinning. Battery is charged to 14v. While cranking the timing light shows 7* advance. (not perfect but close) Any ideas on why I'm not getting fuel? There is an extra grey wire that used to be connected to my coil. It is not in my wire diagram. Does it need to be grounded? Thanks!!!! Photos coming soon!

Thanks! Turbo! I'm going to cut the the center out of the EA81 pulley and weld in the EA81 shaft. Quick work on the lathe. I will be able to keep tight tolerances and produce a press fit. Photos to follow.

I'm at pick and pull now. I see the difference. Na vs turbo. But it looks like ea82 will fit if the shaft size is the same.

Damn. What is special about the turbo pulley?

There is a chunk missing from my crank pulley on the rear v groove. Mine has 2 v grooves. What years / models will be parts matching at the yard??? Anything other than EA81? Must have AC? I'm putting in mega squirt so a repair could cause noise for the VR sensor. Thanks!

I'm getting lost in the alphabet soup. I've been reading for a few hours yesterday and today. I have an Brat EA81 Factory turbo. It looks like the brat is special and got some more ride height than other cars. I'm looking about 1" lift to fix my the tire rubbing after installing 205/70/15s. What springs will lift / lower the car? EA82 4wd ? EA82 2wd ? EA82 Wagon? XT? RX? EJ? Toyota? Honda? VW Golf? I have read all these being used but without the effect on ride height. Is it true EA82 struts have more travel? A lot of folks mention what is working for them but neglect how much lift they got with that setup. Maybe folks can share their hub to fender clearance. Unless you have trimmed your fenders. Thanks!

Is this for the Radius Rods?

I'm getting ready to order a megasquirt kit. There are lots of options. Can folks describe the Options they are using? Wideband / Narrow band, external gauge? MicroSquirt / Megasquirt? Knock sensor? Flexfuel sensor? MAF + Map? Thanks!

Did anyone ever follow through with this? Is there a writeup?

Philbin wants $250 for the REBUILD of the EA81T Vacuum pod!!!!

Currently Philbin has had my Advance diaphram for 3 weeks and just told me today they need more time?

Awesome info in this thread!!! Can anyone provide the Advance specs for Turbo EA81's??? I know its 15* @ idle / no vacuum What about the rest of the RPM range? on boost? Thanks!

So I'm trying to fix the Vac advance on my EA81 Turbo (from the factory, not retrofit.) I got a 82 honda civic advance diaphram from Autozone. Part number JV1421 from Duralast. I don't like house brands like duralast but Autozone could get it the quickest and it will be easy to return. The honda vacuum unit is very different from the Subaru unit. Biggest issue is it is 0.25 inches shorter. My measurement is from center of the mounting hole to center of the mounting hole. Stock unit: 1.726 inches Duralast JV1421: 1.455 Inches Also the Duralast unit does not have a threaded mounting hole like the Subaru unit. The Mounting hole in the distributor would have to be drilled and tapped. This part looks exactly like the unit linked Ebay and Oriley previously in the thread. This thread references a honda Vacuum Advance, but for an 82 HONDA ACCORD http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47195-wanted-hitachi-vacuum-advance-units/ Standard Motor part # VC-429 According to Rock auto Parts matching is not the same accord to civic. Next step is to compare one of these. It could just be that the Turbo unit is very different than the naturally aspirated dizzy.

So I got to talk to Philbin on the phone Yesterday. I was not impressed. He couldn't answer any of my questions. Like what is the difference between Turbo and Naturally Aspirated Dizzys. He quoted $175 to rebuild my Dizzy (2 days turn around once he had it.) I told him i can buy a complete spare distributor for that much. I said I just need a Vacuum Advance Actuator: That's $75. He would prefer to rebuild mine, rather that ship me a new one. Overall I was not impressed. I get the Honda Civic Vac unit on Wednesday. We will see how that works. I"ll post up what i see in the way of Advance / Retard. If a Replacement Dizzy is nearly $200. Why not go Distributorless Ignition???? I know this is where the EJ Preachers get on their soap box. But an Aftermarket Ignition could grow with me, If i ever did a swap down the road. (Did i take the wind out of your sales?) Anyone done it on a EA motor? This guy put on on his Legacy: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/mod.html Quote: MSD Dis-2 Ignition & Upgraded Diamond coil pack - I was pleasantly surprised with this addition. The word is that the MSD units don't produce much difference for the newer Subaru's, but for the first generation engines, they do. When I added mine I also upgraded to the Diamond Subaru coil pack. The Diamond coil packs come standard on the manual transmission equipped cars. They are supposedly able to handle a little more power. Results, better throttle response in the low & mid range, as well as a little more power throughout the rev range. Would I do it again, you bet. Only down side is the cost, the MSD unit runs about 300 bucks. Check out pics in the image gallery.

Is the Honda civic vac advance on a turbo car?

With the egr hooked up and cooler plugs my knock is gone. BratRod, Do you know what range of advance you are using? Idle? Rev? on boost?

I found a few good threads dealing with the bad vacuum advance. It should be considered an epidemic on our 30 year old cars. This forum needs "How to" section. Someone figured out that the 82 honda civic still has this part available. ($30.) while not cheap; Its cheaper than a new dizzy ($170) A slight modification is required. This company rebuilds Dizzys http://www.philbingr...istributors.htm

Compression is 105 psi each. I spoke with someone who said if the EGR is not working EGTs go up 400 - 600 deg F. My vacuum hoses were new but not fitting tight enough on the egr. (NOTE: SMOKING GUN) I pulled vacuum on the Egr actuator and it holds vacuum and i can hear it move. I cant see any metal flake on the spark plug porcelain. I tried taking a pic but my phone wouldn't focus. I am going to try running ngk b8es spark plugs. Its one of the coldest plugs available. The tech at NGK said if it knocks with that plug in the problem is not the plug. Vacuum Diaphragm in the distributor is bad. (smoking gun #2)

It's there any way to replace the diaphragm with out buying a whole dizzy?

I have a VW TDI that specifies only 5-40 for the high temp turbo lubrication and long oil change interval. It prevents coking on the turbine bearings. In my opinion 5w is too thin for an EJ motor. What is "Resource Conserving"?