coronan

Thanks for the outline on the relays. That confirms what i understood from the wire diagram What sent me digging into the dash was that i did not have any voltage coming into the high and low pressure switches on the drier in the engine bay. The micro switch that I believe triggers the beginning of the AC circuit is not hooked up and i don't see a place to plug it into the harness. I need to go back and study wire colors.

Sneaky devil. But it's not hooked up. Looks like I'm pulling my own wire any how.

Can anyone confirm the physical locations of the items in red? And what those relays do? Thanks!

Still looking for that silly AC switch... I've had busy weekends and evenings. I only get a chance to probe my ducting 10min at a time on breaks at work. Here is pic of the ducting in the center from the drives side. There is no switch here either. At this point i'm tempted to just put in my own switch and splice it into the high and low pressure switch.

My Dash heater / AC controls look stock. Has the subaru emblem in the middle, and AC included in the Vent control. There are no electric switches in the heater controls for the AC... But there is a vacuum valve for max AC. The Thermo switch (thermostat is shown inline between the blower switch and AC relay. Wires for the Thermo Switch dissappear into loom tunning back to the steering column. I"m Still on the hunt for the 1. AC switch 2. Relay.

Here is the wire diag I'm using. As far as I can tell. If the blower is on the control circuit for the AC should have 12v. I am very curious where this Thermostat switch resides. Does it switch the positive side? I pulled the heater controls out of the dash yesterday. There are no wires on the temperature dial. Is there a switch somewhere on a damper?

OOPs, I not sure what i was thinking but lookin at the wire diagram again this morning: I see that the Condenser fuse must be good to close the the AC relay. Where is the condenser Fuse? Thanks!

This one is a little funky. I have an 82 chassis with a MPFI turbo ea81. turbo was not offered in 82. It cam available in '84. So for the hell of it lets say i have an 84. There is no power in the control circuit at the high and low pressure switches on the dryer. But i can engage the compressor by jumpering it to the battery. And idle goes up. I do not have a fuse in my fuse box for AC. Several switches must close in order for the compressor to come on. Where is the AC switch? Attached to vent control slider lever??? Where is temp switch? (attached to dial??) Where is Thermostat switch? Where is the condenser? Passenger side? Where is the AC relay? Thanks!

So I found the massive leak. The PCV inlet under the snorkel hose. Now it runs like a champ. Lots of torque but no Boost. I drove it to work and back. No new codes. I cant hear any boost leaks. My boost gauge fluctuates +/- 1lb.

EGR also helps with fuel economy. Autospeed.com has done articles on it.

I have stood at the f front of the car and cranked the starter with a jumper. I can't hear any engine leaks.

I had other business to tend to for the last 3 weeks. But I'm back on this. Got the fuel lines righted. Not it starts right away but does not idle for more than a few sec. I can rev it if i finesse the throttle. ECU has codes 11: Ignition Sys - No reference pulse 12: Starter switch remains in off The starter does not appear to be sticking. Is the reference pulse referring to crank position? Which comes from the Dizzy? My manual says its a photo eye but there is no adjusting it. Is this true for ea81? Thanks!

Draft. Needs more detail.

I could never figure out where this hose went. It comes off the center of the spider manifold. It would contain boost / vacuum.

Here is how i have everything plumbed. Maybe I can get some help identifying each hose. Put labels in the photos and make a sticky for others. I attempted to keep things straight by color coding with zip ties. Violet = Vacuum Red = Fuel Blue = Water (coolant) Pink = Pressure (boost)

So Fuel "in" and "out" switched to how they should be. I now have fuel returning to the tank and 36 psi of fuel pressure. Now the car starts but does not idle. I could rev it to 3000/4000 rpm. Pics tomorrow of the engine bay.

Just kidding. Upon thinking about why i had no fuel returning to the tank..... I studied the fuel injection diagram again and found that i had the fuel supply and return line switched. Fuel need to go to the manifold > injectors > FPR > return to tank. The fitting on the top of the FPR is the return line. I have found the vacuum and fuel diagrams to be less then desirable from the Finley manual and Heyes Manual. The manuals are especially light on MPFI and Turbo info. The diagrams that are there go from component to component but do not specify component identification or label the manifolds. Or where they actually are in the car. Despite my attempt to label and go slow. Its difficult to check my work with poor diagrams.

pulled #1 plug and checked TDC matches the crank and dizzy and piston. Timing while cranking is about 16 - 17* advanced. Noid light works on #1 injector. Looks like it might be synced with #1 spark. Hard to tell. Both noid light and spark tester light up, with close timing. Pulled the FPR outlet hose it was wet but NOT returning any fuel to the tank. (BAD) FPR may be plugged. pulled vac hose and appied vacuum with a pump. No change in fuel pressure (still 50ish). Next i'm going to check actual pressure at the injectors. I expect to find none. I'm looking for links to aftermarket fuel pressure regulator threads. Thanks!

Dizzy spins CCW, Firing order 1, 3, 2, 4. #1 is in the back right of the Dizzy. Cyl 1 is in the Front Passenger side. Right?

So how much do folks turn up their fuel pressure to when they are adding boost? The FPR does not come up on Rockauto, Napa, oriley, or autozone. Any recomendations on where to get a replacement FPR??? Part #? Isn't it integrated in to the fuel rail?

My book says 26 - 36 at idle. 65 psi maximum.

Ron @ Ram performance was great to work with. He is quick to respond by email. He builds more than just aviation motors. He builds all performance motors. I think the FB page is "Ram performance engines" I had him do my heads. Hopefully i will have the car up and running this week. He told me the biggest bang for the buck is to get bigger valves. I asked him to raise compression. I did my own port and polish. I couldn't afford his flow balancing at this time. I also had him weld the cracks in the head near the valves. He sand blasts the head so any polish work will have to be redone after he has it. Turnaround time was about 3 weeks.

So I did head gaskets on my brat. I had several other things going on.so it took me several months to get it back together. Now it cranks but has no hint of catching. I have spark on all plugs. 52 psi fuel pressure, and I hear the 4 fuel injectors clicking. I tried to check timing but the battery got too low last night, and it was time to call it a day. The check valve in my compression tool is bad but i have at least 90 psi in cyl 1. The trouble light on the ecu does not light up. Do I have a massive air bubble in the fuel system? The pump stays on so long as the key is in the on position. I might go buy a noid light this afternoon. Is there a crank position sensor that didn't get plugged in? Thanks in Advance!

I'm like 6 to 8" short. What part numbers did the other ngk folks use???

So i ordered a set of NGks. NGK (8002) FE22 But the lead from the distributor to the coil is too short!!! ????!!!!