coronan

I believe EA81T injectors flow 220 cc / min. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/99937-280-zx-t-injectors-in-ea82ts/ Post 14.

Both my poorly spraying spraying Subaru injectors and the nicely spraying Maxima injectors flow incredibly consistent, one injector to the next. If i wanted to get scientific about it I could weigh the fluid. But i'm not racing and my heads are not flow balanced so what is the point of balancing injectors if the cylinders have different air flow. I had them out so I wanted to know they are clean and have good spray pattern. I did put my better spray pattern injectors in the higher flowing intake ports. (for now... Gotta get this thing back on the road.) I am familiar with adjusting the MAF from playing with toyotas. Surprisingly it does not get discussed on this forum. I'm wrapping up a head rebuild. After this I will have wide band AF gauge installed. The other thing that does not get discussed is if upgrading the injectors is fixing a lean issue, OR its just because all the cool kids are doing it. For example no one in this thread mentions knock or ping.

Have a part number for the Accel wires? How do I know if the boot style will fit the distributor / spark plug?

So 2 of my injectors have poor mist pattern. No turbo cars listed above were at my pick n pull. But i did get my hands on a 84 maxima (inline 6) Based on post 7 I thought VG30E injectors would work on my EA81. I cleaned em up and they sure do mist nice. BUT... With a crude flow test they do not flow nearly what the stock ea81 injectors do. My test is 40 psi with 10 sec On with a stop watch. Stock EA81 injectors flow about 37 ml (fluid in the cup) VG30E injectors flow about 30 ml (Black line marked on the cup.) Word to the wise. Dont make my mistake.

Hello, Its important to have good spark on a turbo car. What have folks found to be the fattest core available for ea81s??? 8mm??? Thanks!

I was changing the CV Boots on my EA81. Drivers side was torn. I decided to do all 4 while i was in there. The passenger side inner joint had very loose balls. (Boot not torn). No clicking yet. It seams to me that I should be able to get a new balls, cartridge and cup; in a kit? It would be as good as new. No? Anyone explored this???? Thanks!

Mr injector hooked it up. Our injectors are not listed. You have to call.

....Crickets huh? I guess its time to upgrade. My notes say higher flowing injectors come from: .90-93 Mitsubishi Eclipse 280 ZX T VG30E or VG30ET (300zx/maxima/pathfinder)

I need pintel caps for my MPFI ea81 turbo. I used to have a local source but they closed up shop. Anyone have a part number? Source? Thanks!!!

Has anyone tried to replace the rubber hose on the back of the fuel injector? Mine are pretty crusty. I'm ready to cut the crimp fitting but rather know what i'm getting into first. I have a welding gas hose repair tools that would probably work. The oxygen hose uses a similar 40 psi. looks like this: http://i45.tinypic.com/sfkxlk.jpg Any experience with this out there?

Wow. I thought with the rarity of the bolts / studs the same would be true for helicoils. Amazing!

What do folks helicoil with if the head stud is 11mm x 1.25?

I'll go back and measure mine in sae. I need 5.

Ea81 head studs measure: 11mm dia 1.25 thread pitch 120mm long 40mm threaded on each end

My subie dealer said new head studs are no longer available for the ea81 part # 800911120. My google searches are coming up short too. Anyone know of some laying around? Helicoil the block for 10 mm or 12mm?

oops please disregard my last post. Studs are actually 11mm dia.

Do Subaru's have head gasket problems because of gasket collapse or head bolt stretch??? Has anyone considered ARP part number 151-5405 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-151-5405/ I called this morning and gave them the stock dimensions of my old head bolts 10mm dia x 1.25 x 125mm long 40mm threaded on both ends. part number 151-5405 is slightly different because it is threaded 33mm on one end and 25mm on the other. Over all length is correct. I'm going to go home tonight and measure how much thread hangs out of the block with the head off. And head thickness. It may work to install 33mm on the block side and 25mm on the head side. And extra washer could compensate for not enough threaded length. Thoughts?

I got the felpro gaskets. The ones with a bead on silicone printed on the gasket. What side does the bead of glue go on? Head side or block side?

Cracked between the valves and EGR Port. Repairable?

SkiShop: Have more beta on that rocker mod? Is valve lift realy only 0.210"? Or is the that the cam lobe?

Can anyone recommend removing material from areas that i haven't???? Or removing more material from certain areas?

I'm loosing ground. The moral of the story might be if your not pro dont port your head. You will do more damage than good I spent about an hours watching this guy. https://www.youtube.com/user/HeadPorting Warning he is long winded and his videos are in real time. But I learned some things. Move quickly and keep moving. Look for Luster. Switching to the intake: Cyl 1 Stock Cyl 3 with the Bowl cleaned up Cyl 1 Stock 214 cfm Cyl 3 Cleaned up bowl 201 cfm (94%) One thing to note when unshrouding the valve is the short side radius. I can barely stick my pinky finger in there. It feels smooth from the factory. If you mess it up the valve guide blocks you from getting it back. And there is a lot of material to remove to unshroud the valve. Be careful not to make a corner. On to the other end of the runner. Cut out port divider. Tried to remove flash from the bottom of the runner. This is a difficult area to work in. Flows with intake runner cleaned up to 80 grit. Cyl 1 209 cfm Cyl 3 195 cfm (93%) No Gains At this point I realized my lack of skill. Things looked smooth but did not feel smooth to the finger. Its hard to see until its polished that something is still lumpy. There is an interesting ramp before the valve guide here. I'm not sure if its intentional or not from subaru. It may throw air at the shrouded side of the valve. But probably not. I tried taking it out. 80 grit. Cyl 1: 215 cfm Cyl 3: 178 cfm (84%) I LOST 11% FLOW This was also an EXTREMELY DIFFICULT AREA TO WORK IN. You can only use the bottom of a ball shape cutter and the valve guide is constantly in the way. I was super bummed because I thought it would be a great way to add flow to cyl 3 after i had cleaned up cyl 1 intake. Note to self. Do less work with the carbide burrs and more work with the sanding rolls. Also note to self : Do not quit day job. This practice run has been exhausting and demoralizing. My GF hates me and wants to throw my air compressor in the garbage. Good thing its too heavy for her to lift. At this point i am going to proceed to minimally clean up the heads I intend to put on the car.

Wow crickets huh??? No accolades of wizdom, from the peanut gallery. I have the drivers side head that I can still experiment with. I'm running out of time. I need to get these head off for rebuild before I leave for vacation soon. Ram performance is going to cut the seats for larger valves. Probably the SS harley valves listed above. I'm probably going to spend tomorrow polish the combustion chambers and do a light smoothing of transitions. What is the recommended grit to finish the intake port to keep the injected fuel atomized? 80 grit?

I switched to blow through the cylinders. (more appropriate for a turbo car and the exhaust ports). Overall the flow numbers came down. But in comparison # 3 cam up 20 %. Making #3 exhaust 75% of #1. I may keep with this blown setup. The other question in my head is what should the tolerance be. 10%. That sounds like a lot in terms of effect on stoichiometric ratio but it may be more realistic.

So I have removed several ounces of material and not had any improvements in flow. This is my practice head. Cyl 1 Exhaust: Stock bowl. I just roughed it up with 50 grit so i was not taking pictures of black. This is the one that makes the exhaust travel in an S bend. Cyl 3 Exhaust: Sloped Roof around the Valve Guide. Lots of material removed from the right side (middle of the head) to straighten the port. Not as much can be taken from the left inside radius because of the oil return galley / push rod hole. And finally the twin port. Cyl 3 is on the left. Cyl 1 is on the right. Lots of material removed from the Cyl 3 side. Port divider ground back and knife edged. Its ugly but clearly the port on 3 is straighter and larger. Here is what my Flow Meter tells me. Due to temp / humidity / ect flows are only good on that day. Fluctuations will occur day to day. The goal is to equalize. Measurement taken last weekend. Stock, Before removing any material. Cyl 1 Exhaust Stock 239 cfm Cyl 3 Exhaust Stock 155 (65%) Measurement take 2-12 after porting #3 Exhaust Cyl 1 Exhaust Stock 220 cfm Cyl 3 Exhaust Ported 120 (54%) And no, I did not get the cylinders reversed. Clearly I do not know how to improve flow. There is a lesson here. I just don't know what it is. I am glad this is the practice run.