coronan

I'm calling this the lazy man's swap. Easier and less time consuming than a EJ swap. No dash swap required. ect... I have an EA81 Turbo in my 82 brat. Can I swap in a EA82 turbo long block and run it with the EA81T sensors and ECU. My EA81T has MPFI with 4 injectors. The Dizzys are on opposite sides. I anticipate lengthening some wires here or there. Will it plug and play? What else would be involved???? Why do it? Because its 30 more HP and it can be done in a weekend. No? Nomex is on.

So i CAN use EA82T parts if i want to stay 4 lug. (which i will take to 6 lug.) How did you run your parking brake cable????

Is the XT hub special? Can i use any EA82T rear disk hub? What did you use for a rear hand brake cable?

Is the front REAR of an EA82 Turbo 25 spline? I would like to take a LSD rear diff pumpkin from ab 88 GL Turbo and put it into my 82 brat. I realize i would have to swap the ring and pinion to make it 3.9 ratio. Then it occurred to me that the diff my not accept my axels. What would be involved??? THANKS!

Can anyone provide more info on the VW CIS fuel pump upgrade? Wikipedia was super vague. Part Number? Years Matching? Engine?

Also, Maintenance, & Tuning, Don't hot rod it if its not running perfect. Zero vacuum Leaks! Then all of the racer tricks. Headers, Larger exhaust, Cat delete or new cat, High flow muffler. Keep your exhaust tip to 2" so you don't get drone. By the time the gas gets there it will have cooled condensed, and not need large diameter. Index spark plugs, side gap spark plugs, Clean Intake manifold. Port Match Intake and exhaust. (these things are free HP)

Care full with HHO. I tried it on my toyota and it ended corroding sensors and valves in my intake manifold. Bench test and filter, Filter FILTER.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/

How to compare oil Apples to Apples: http://www.api.org/Certification-Programs/Engine-Oil-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf Looks like GF-5 is the best. Most Everything is SN rated. Mobil 1 5w30 is GF-5 Rated if it is pure. NO high millage or other Bull What do others run in their turbo EA 81, 82s? What are your oil pressures? Anyone Doing UOA's?

Found my problem. Thanks to Gloyale for pointing me in the right direction with this image. <a href="http://s209.photobucket.com/user/Gloyale/media/IMG_0192_zps09c006bc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb29/Gloyale/IMG_0192_zps09c006bc.jpg" border="0" alt="A/C jumper EA81 photo IMG_0192_zps09c006bc.jpg"/></a> This particular relay lives mounted directly above the fuse box on the drivers side. To get to it pull the fuse box with 2 screws. Then pull the bracket with 1 screw and bend it down. Vola! Even though the Fan had power from the AC circuit it would not run. ( I still don't know why. ) The glass fuse in my fusable link was rated 20 amps same as the blade fuse in the box. They are so close to one another I'm tempted to bypass it. It looks like my white wires got hot due to a bad connection. I'm not sure of its purpose. Any one else had trouble with this fuseable link?

Still plugging away at this. Here is continuity through the switch. Seems Normal: All Circuits are open in the off position. Yellow to Black is Closed in Switch position 1, 2, 3, 4. Switch Position 1 = Black - Yellow only 2 = Black - Blue w/ Yellow Stripe 3 = Black - Blue w/ White Stripe 4 = Black - Red w/ white Stripe Black wire is grounded with no resistance. With my multimeter Neg lead clipped to ground (sheet metal): Now, if I check for voltage, at the fan. The fan has voltage in the off position, as it should from the relay. The speed control switch should be switching ground per my diagram. When the Switch is in the 1, 2, 3, or 4 position Voltage is interrupted. Unplugging the fan shows that power is coming from the RED /w White Stripe. Not the Green w/ white stripe. Do I have some funky, home made bull or what? The fan looses power when the switch gets unplugged at either plug. Which suggests the fan is getting power from the yellow w/ White stripe at the resistor pack. Trying to jumper the green wire to ground does not engage the fan. Nore does jumping the red to ground or red to black. What the diagram does not show is what controls the relay to come on and off. Please tell me I have been looking at this too long and missed some thing simple.

I don't know how you guys run 0w-40!!! Do you have any oil pressure at all???? Its probably great for new cars, built to different clearances. I dont care how good it is 5-40 in my 80's toyota is TOOO noisy. Its just not built for it. My 2001 VW TDI is on a strict diet of only M1 5w40 TDT. But its 20 years newer. It loves it! At least 25psi at idle warmed up. I think I'm in the market for a 10-40 for the ea81T. After a run on the hwy with 5-30 my oil pressure is barely 10 psi at idle and not really holding 10 psi / 1000 rpm. (The rule of thumb that I was taught.) If it has a chance to cool off it will come back. Assuming the cluster gauge is accurate. I might be able to get a test gauge on it tonight. I Might have to get an oil temp gauge. I think those are better than a turbo timer. I mean how do you know if your turbo timer is shutting down at the right temp? Is anyone doing oil cooling with coolant? I threw in a round of DELO 10-30 as an engine flush, and I am much happier with the pressures. It comes out tonight.

I was at my local PnP last night as a scouting mission. They have 2 Subaru GL's. An 87 and an 89. My first priority is to get the parts needed for vented front disks. As long as I am in there I'd like to get spare half shafts. If I make it that far; I should take the tranny. But these are going to be after work adventures. Its not likely to happen. I'm tied up all weekends for the next 3 weeks. Both are 5 speed manual. My notes say that the 89 should have full time 4x4 which is not what i want. But its VIN plate says it was made in 7/1988. If it is Full Time 4x4 with hi/lo: has a vacuum diaphragm on drivers side of the box with a cable over the top of the trans connected to a lever down near the back, then you've got a full-time, with dual range. Correct??? The Half shafts looked to be in better condition on the 89. Will it still have 23 spline count? Thanks!

What year and engine for a VW CIS Fuel pump???? Part #? Thanks!

I'll get the NTNs comming Part Number: ATM 2123001 Thanks!

Still haven't found the blower resistor box. Is that where all the blue wires lead to from the switch? I pull the blower an jumpered power to it. It spins fine under its own power. Funny thing is it has power when the switch is in the off position but none of the on positions. I'll pull the blower switch out again tomorrow and follow the blue wires. Hopefully they lead to buried treasure. I shopped for a resistor and a new switch but could not find anything at Orilies, Napa, Rock, Autozone (though i try to avoid shopping there) Suggests this part: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Relay-and-Resistors/_/N-2659?filterByKeyWord=blower+resistor&fromString=search But its only 3 wires??? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Santech-Red-dot-units-71R-1450-blower-resistor-block/_/N-2659?itemIdentifier=262814_0_0_ I should just put in a PWM..... http://www.amazon.com/Pulse-Modulation-Control-Switch-9V-60V/dp/B00MN6R6JW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1411594954&sr=8-8&keywords=pwm+20a

Link in the first post is broken. I found it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47583-rear-disc-conversion-on-ea81-ea82s/

I Read this and am still confused. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107722-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-4wd-rear/ Napa parts do not look like the parts installed..

Can anyone provide part numbers for this job? I see 2 different styles listed for the rear. Napa lists a 2 piece double roller or a 2 piece tapered roller for the inner and outer. Which is right for a gen 2 brat? http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dwheel%2bbearing%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101982%2b50068%2b2068002# Thanks!

I have AC. I'm looking for the Blower Resistor Box.

I'm spelunking under the dash for the blower resistor. to the left of the glove box is this: 6 wires Behind the glove box is this: 2 wires Is the blower resistor hidden in this rats nest? ?????? Thanks!

I have a similar situation on an 82 brat. My manual says 80 - 84 has the same wiring. I found the blower relay above the fuse box. when the key is on it closes 12v from white to green. At the switch all legs have power except black (ground). Resistance on each leg was 50 to 250 ohms. I am to understand that the relay sends power to the blower but is switched on the ground side???? So if my blower does not come on but the switch has power and ground = bad blower motor Right????

This is an old thread. How are the bushings holding up??? I've read about shimming the radius rod will cause undue wear to the bushings. http://offroadingsubarus.com/radius-rod-extensions-increase-caster-angle/ http://offroadingsubarus.com/83-subaru-leone-4dr-4wd-radius-rod-mod/ I was thinking of replacing the bushing with a uniball. This would also get me adjustable camber from the bottom. Thoughts????

So I took the Brat out on some dirt yesterday... I tried to do a hand brake turn......HEAVILY DISAPPOINTED. Where is the rear hand brake conversion mod?????!!!!!! Is it possible with the rear caliper upgrade or did all 80 cars get front e-brakes?

Thanks TSB! Did subie use magnetic drain plugs on the trany & rear diff? Do do i need to get some? @ Jono: Got a write up for that temp monitor install??? I'm curious how and where you mounted the probe.