samisunjp

Any suggestions for which line to hook the guage up to? Never used one before.

Pcv are brand new and iac are clear. Ill check timing but, would that cause the stalling?

I pulled the one closest to the thermostat housing ( green pig tail connector) and checked the resistance with my multi-meter and some boiling water and the resistance seemed to change within spec as it heated and cooled.

I have a '94 loyale 5 speed spfi. Just re-did all of the seals on the engine and have her back in and hooked all up. Starting her up is a little rough but I can get her to stay running. The idle is low and when you step on the gas pedal it will either stall out or sputter and then start to steadily increase rpm but be very hesitant and not keep constant power. also will backfire once and a while when you step on it before the rpm's drop. I checked the TPS and it is within spec and the water temperature sender seems to be doing its job as well. Sprayed carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. Fuel filter is brand new. I appreciate any help or input that I can get!

Alright I'll be looking into that until then when I was checking the ohms for the tps at the ecu connector the fsm says to check between 26 and 35 for up to 6.5 ohms I was o my getting 1. Then it says to check for ohms between b and d on the tps and still only got 1 fsm says to replace tps, does this seem right?

Ill bolt the ecu back up and try wiggling the harness. The pins all look clean and so do the connectors. The connectors were fully seated into the ECU. I don't have access to another ECU on hand. I was checking for continuity in the connectors for the TPS. The TPS was giving me code 31.

I have a multi meter but am not a very good electrician, anyway to check which wire/s it could be? Something to do with the ignition if it just kills the car?

So I was adjusting my TPS today and had unplugged the ecu when I was messing around in the car and have the ecu loose. When I move the ECU it can cause the flashing sequence(check engine code) to start or stop. If I hold the ecu in a certain way I can get the car to start, once started though if I move the ECU it will instantly kill the car, regardless of what rpm it is at, as in it kills the spark to the engine. Help would be greatly appreciated!

I put the timing belts in aligned to the middle timing mark but then I rotated the engine again aligning to the zero degree mark prior to putting the distributor in, so I need to align it to the middle timing mark before putting the distributor in?

I just read a thread on here that says when doing the timing for the distributor you should not position the flywheel at the 0 degrees mark when you put the distributor in but rather align again to the middle timing mark and then put the distributor in with the rotor facing towards the hill holder. Is this proper procedure? I aligned it to the 0 degree mark when I first put the distributor in.

So I just got done resealing the engine in my 1993 loyale. It is an ea82 spfi. I got the engine back into the car. Put all the timing belts back on and fired her up, she runs then dies. It will run for maybe 10 or fifteen seconds at about 750 rpm then sputter out. If I get it started and give her some gas I can keep it at about 2500 rpms for a few seconds before the rpms completely drop and she sputters out. I checked the check engine code and it is giving me 31, throttle position sensor. I wasn't getting this code before I took the engine out. The tps doesn't seem to make a difference though as it does the same thing with it unplugged. It doesn't seem to turn over smooth either, when the starter is engaged it almost seems, jerky and rough, not the feeling it usually gives? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Kyle

I'll take my time and be extra careful. Has anyone heard of DNJ engine components for gaskets. I was thinking about just buying an entire gasket set to save some money, unless buying them individually would be preferred? https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-Engine-Components-FGS7026-Gasket/dp/B00TLG5SI8/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=GL%7C59&Year=1988%7C1988&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

I have driven it a little bit and the car seems to have a hesitation/ or stall when it is cold. I'll need to do some more testing to be sure. As far as leaks go it is apparent that it leaks quite a bit of oil. A lot seems to be coming from one of the valve covers. I should say that this really is a project car for me. I am really okay with letting it sit un-drivable for several months while I really build it up to make it very reliable. I have the time and a steady enough income to be able to get parts for it. In the end I would like the engine to be in really good shape, and most importantly very reliable. Hopefully before the summer this thing will be one badass battlewagon!

So after about a year of being out of the loyale game, I picked up another one! I am planning on pulling the engine and pretty much doing a reseal of the engine, as well as many other things while its out. My main question is if the head gaskets are not already blown is it a good idea to change them, or will it be not worth it? I've never done a head gasket before and am wondering if its more trouble than its worth if it is still holding fine. Are there any other seals that I should just avoid if they are still holding strong? Thanks, Kyle

So I moved the starter relay away from the engine near the fuel filter and that didn't work. My thought is that I am getting too much resistance with the car hot. However the sequence of connections is relay --> Fuse --> Positive on the starter, and all of the connections have no corrosion and seem to be in good condition! Any thoughts? I'm stumped.