Stoner Dude

Howdy, Does anyone have the coding information for the 4 speed manual transmissions (dual range) from a EA81 GL 1.8L? Thanks in advance

awesome. i hope i remember this when I'm ready to replace mine.

Has it been sitting for a while? I went through this on my 84 GL 1.8L wagon (4sp D/R). It ended up being a clogged fuel line inside the tank. I had to take the tank to a radiator repair guy and he poured acid in it for like 2 weeks. burned a hole through it but he did a nice job patching it. Worked like a charm since. Anyways i have an extra "black box" relay cause i thought that's what it was and it wasn't. Also, i think i have a brand new fuel pump. Can you unhook the fuel pump and hook up some power leads to it to see if it's not the fuel pump itself?

sweet rig. i think mine is the same car. The entire side of mine has been backed into from 4 different people. i still cry at night thinking about it. Is your transmission still holding up? Im assuming you have the 4 speed manual with dual range 4 wheel drive? I just got the air conditioner fixed too and it's my daily driver.

located in Oklahoma City area. Does your 4 speed have the transfer case mounted to it? Thanks,

Hi, I realize i am about 10 or 15 years late on this post. I am looking for info about swapping my EA81 4speed dual range (d/r) with a EA82 5speed d/r. My 3rd gear is gone and now 4th and REV are grinding, so i know my days are numbered. Car has about 105K miles and even though 4 idiots have back into the driver side and crashed in the entire side, the car still runs good and still has that new car smell inside (kinda). I have read there is some kind of kit that i could use so i won't have to weld or torch things. I only have typical shade tree mechanic tools and not really a fabricator type person. Also, any body have a EA82 5 speed d/r for sale that's in decent shape? Any help would be great.

Pretty sure my transmission is about to go out. 3rd gear has been gone for like 35K miles and now 4th gear is grinding when shifting into. Has anyone purchased a rebuilt transmission online? I found one that said could be delivered to my door for like $800, but i don't know if it's a scam or not? My vehicle is a 1984 Subaru GL Wagon 4 speed manual with AWD dual range. Also, is it tough to change out the transmission? Thanks for any help, SD

Crap, okay. Back to square one i guess.

update: Got my Bluetooth scan tool and trying to figure out how to use it. So i charged the battery up to 95%. started the car up. The check engine light was not on (because i had the battery disconnected it clear the codes). As it getting warm the CEL starts to flash, but then when i rev up the engine the light goes off. It is idling pretty rough and if i rev it up it actually runs really good (in park-no load), and let off the accelerator the engine will die. I have to let off a tiny bit at a time to keep it running. Once my foot is all the way off the gas it will remain idling (rough). No codes are registered except the "pending fault codes" P0301, P0303, P0305. Which is misfire in cylinders 1,3,5. Can anyone tell me if this is the driver side or passenger side bank? The driver side O2 sensor has been bad for a while The next thing i do will be to test the back pressure on the exhaust via the front O2 sensor port with a gauge. Can a clogged exhaust cause the "pending fault codes" as mentioned above? Also, i learn of a super easy way to test the cylinder compression without taking out the spark plugs. Use a amp meter hooked up to the positive cable on the starter. Start the car with the gas pedal floored (to keep it from starting) and watch to see the peaks on the amp reading to see if they are all the same across all cylinders. see video here: https://youtu.be/8YIdqvLCHC4?t=20m40s Also i read about checking the VVT , by swapping the front ones to see if the codes switch sides? So when it broke down in Santa Fe 500 miles ago it was a clogged driver side cat. The O2 sensor was bad on that side as well but it didn't get replaced till i got home after it broke down again the same way. If cylinders 1,3,5 are on the drivers side, I'm thinking maybe the bad O2 sensor clogged the new cat already and that's what's wrong with it now?

i think i did read that whole thread, the carbon build up is kinda down on my list for items to focus on. But i can't rule it out just yet. Gonna wait to get my scan tool and run some checks. I found these really interesting youtube videos that explain how to look at the data regarding the fuel trim. i have hope now. https://youtu.be/5WnM_NsOtd8

Just ordered the scan tool, thanks for the tip

no timing chain noise except for after i change my oil and start it up, it has a quick zip noise from the engine. Im gonna get one of those BAFX Bluetooth scanners and do as you suggest and I'll get back to this thread with the results. I had the head gasket replaced about 20,000 miles ago and they took the heads to the machine shop and had them inspected and they turned out in good shape. Would they have seen the massive carbon built up at this time with the heads removed? Also, i have used high octane fuel since i got the car with 60K miles. Also, the mechanic that replaced the front driver side cat also cleaned the fuel injectors and i think cleaned the throttle body. It's weird that the cat that went bad 500 miles ago was on the other bank from the side that the cylinders are mis-firing now. Guess it couldnt hurt to seafoam the intake.

Yes, i have ran high octane ever since i had it at 60K miles. It has 270K on it now.

if the timing chain has slack (due to damaged guides or failing tensioner) or even jumped a link, wouldn't it run like crap even at a cold start up? When running at open loop for a cold start up, does it just bypass all the sensors and fuel trim readings and air intake sensors? Also, if i unplug the O2 sensors at the exhaust to bypass the fuel trim system and it still runs like crap, does that mean that it is for sure a mechanical timing issues with the tensioners/guides/chains, etc.... Thanks,