Stoner Dude

Howdy, Does anyone have the coding information for the 4 speed manual transmissions (dual range) from a EA81 GL 1.8L? Thanks in advance

awesome. i hope i remember this when I'm ready to replace mine.

Has it been sitting for a while? I went through this on my 84 GL 1.8L wagon (4sp D/R). It ended up being a clogged fuel line inside the tank. I had to take the tank to a radiator repair guy and he poured acid in it for like 2 weeks. burned a hole through it but he did a nice job patching it. Worked like a charm since. Anyways i have an extra "black box" relay cause i thought that's what it was and it wasn't. Also, i think i have a brand new fuel pump. Can you unhook the fuel pump and hook up some power leads to it to see if it's not the fuel pump itself?

sweet rig. i think mine is the same car. The entire side of mine has been backed into from 4 different people. i still cry at night thinking about it. Is your transmission still holding up? Im assuming you have the 4 speed manual with dual range 4 wheel drive? I just got the air conditioner fixed too and it's my daily driver.

located in Oklahoma City area. Does your 4 speed have the transfer case mounted to it? Thanks,

Hi, I realize i am about 10 or 15 years late on this post. I am looking for info about swapping my EA81 4speed dual range (d/r) with a EA82 5speed d/r. My 3rd gear is gone and now 4th and REV are grinding, so i know my days are numbered. Car has about 105K miles and even though 4 idiots have back into the driver side and crashed in the entire side, the car still runs good and still has that new car smell inside (kinda). I have read there is some kind of kit that i could use so i won't have to weld or torch things. I only have typical shade tree mechanic tools and not really a fabricator type person. Also, any body have a EA82 5 speed d/r for sale that's in decent shape? Any help would be great.

Pretty sure my transmission is about to go out. 3rd gear has been gone for like 35K miles and now 4th gear is grinding when shifting into. Has anyone purchased a rebuilt transmission online? I found one that said could be delivered to my door for like $800, but i don't know if it's a scam or not? My vehicle is a 1984 Subaru GL Wagon 4 speed manual with AWD dual range. Also, is it tough to change out the transmission? Thanks for any help, SD

Crap, okay. Back to square one i guess.

update: Got my Bluetooth scan tool and trying to figure out how to use it. So i charged the battery up to 95%. started the car up. The check engine light was not on (because i had the battery disconnected it clear the codes). As it getting warm the CEL starts to flash, but then when i rev up the engine the light goes off. It is idling pretty rough and if i rev it up it actually runs really good (in park-no load), and let off the accelerator the engine will die. I have to let off a tiny bit at a time to keep it running. Once my foot is all the way off the gas it will remain idling (rough). No codes are registered except the "pending fault codes" P0301, P0303, P0305. Which is misfire in cylinders 1,3,5. Can anyone tell me if this is the driver side or passenger side bank? The driver side O2 sensor has been bad for a while The next thing i do will be to test the back pressure on the exhaust via the front O2 sensor port with a gauge. Can a clogged exhaust cause the "pending fault codes" as mentioned above? Also, i learn of a super easy way to test the cylinder compression without taking out the spark plugs. Use a amp meter hooked up to the positive cable on the starter. Start the car with the gas pedal floored (to keep it from starting) and watch to see the peaks on the amp reading to see if they are all the same across all cylinders. see video here: https://youtu.be/8YIdqvLCHC4?t=20m40s Also i read about checking the VVT , by swapping the front ones to see if the codes switch sides? So when it broke down in Santa Fe 500 miles ago it was a clogged driver side cat. The O2 sensor was bad on that side as well but it didn't get replaced till i got home after it broke down again the same way. If cylinders 1,3,5 are on the drivers side, I'm thinking maybe the bad O2 sensor clogged the new cat already and that's what's wrong with it now?

i think i did read that whole thread, the carbon build up is kinda down on my list for items to focus on. But i can't rule it out just yet. Gonna wait to get my scan tool and run some checks. I found these really interesting youtube videos that explain how to look at the data regarding the fuel trim. i have hope now. https://youtu.be/5WnM_NsOtd8

Just ordered the scan tool, thanks for the tip

no timing chain noise except for after i change my oil and start it up, it has a quick zip noise from the engine. Im gonna get one of those BAFX Bluetooth scanners and do as you suggest and I'll get back to this thread with the results. I had the head gasket replaced about 20,000 miles ago and they took the heads to the machine shop and had them inspected and they turned out in good shape. Would they have seen the massive carbon built up at this time with the heads removed? Also, i have used high octane fuel since i got the car with 60K miles. Also, the mechanic that replaced the front driver side cat also cleaned the fuel injectors and i think cleaned the throttle body. It's weird that the cat that went bad 500 miles ago was on the other bank from the side that the cylinders are mis-firing now. Guess it couldnt hurt to seafoam the intake.

Yes, i have ran high octane ever since i had it at 60K miles. It has 270K on it now.

if the timing chain has slack (due to damaged guides or failing tensioner) or even jumped a link, wouldn't it run like crap even at a cold start up? When running at open loop for a cold start up, does it just bypass all the sensors and fuel trim readings and air intake sensors? Also, if i unplug the O2 sensors at the exhaust to bypass the fuel trim system and it still runs like crap, does that mean that it is for sure a mechanical timing issues with the tensioners/guides/chains, etc.... Thanks,

I'm about to rip into the timing chain area and would like to have a legit service manual. Thanks, Stoner Dude

i went ahead and brought the car home. I took the battery out and had it tested with a hand tester at Auto Zone. It had 43% charge but the guy said it was a good battery. So Im charging it now at 2amp trickle charge. I plan on getting a scan tool and trying to figure out what's going on with this thing. Should i buy a scan tool and which one would be good that has Short and Long term fuel trim data? The weird part is this car starts up fine and you can drive it for a few miles without any issues, and then it totally craps out. I have a hard time believing it has something to do with the mechanical parts of the timing chain, tensioners, or guides. But we shall see. The sucky part is the timing chain cover has like 58 bolts to take out in order to get the cover off. Also, i had the head gaskets replaced probably 15,000 miles ago and they took the heads to a shop to have them check and they were good. Wouldn't they have seen the evidence of massive carbon deposits when they had the heads off? Also, something that puzzles me is that the Bank 1 cat was clogged (glowing red hot) 500 miles ago and was apparently the reason for the initial breakdown. Because after they replaced that cat the car drove amazing for 500 miles. Then broke-down the same exact way. Now a different shop is saying the problem is in Bank 2 with misfire, and they said the cat is not clogged in bank 2. Why would the car break down the same exact way, but a bank 1 cat fixed it before and now its pointing to a timing chain problem in the opposite bank? This engine has two complete separate timing chains for each bank: FYI

Looking for anyone that has had this issue before. The shop has already performed a cylinder compression test (it was good). Next step is to pull the timing chain cover and start looking into this area. Im already out of money and don't really have a good feeling that this is gonna be the answer, but it's another $400 to find out. Need some help. The car will start and drive good until it warms up and then it totally cuts out where you can barely drive it. 500 miles ago is when this started happening and the first shop changed out the DRIVER side cat closest to the engine (and that fixed it for 500 miles and now it's doing it again.). The current shop checked the cats and they were okay. Could the ECM be malfunctioning? Had a 91 that was doing really weird stuff and getting weird codes. i finally swapped the ECM for another 91 i had and it totally fixed the problem. Anyone know if it's possible to test the ECM? Thanks,

Hey guys, i just did this too. Had to trim mine the same. The bottom of the new insert is kinda bulging out a tiny bit, but i just tightened the bolts and called it good. Thanks for the info above!! The shop was trying to charge me almost $700 for this repair and it took me a whole 15 minutes to complete. 10 or 11 of the 15 was trying to find my sharp razor to trim. Took it for a test drive and it sure does make a big difference. I drive a 2001 Outback wagon 3.0 LL Bean I used Whiteline part number KDT927. Also, did you all tighten your bolts to 50 or 55 ftlbs? I'll add photos when i re learn how to do that.

RodA, Did you leave the original shot bushing in place when you installed the KDT927? I am doing this now and the inserts seem way to big to fit into the voids if i leave the original bushing in place. thanks

i have a 2001 Outback LLBEAN, it's got 225K miles. This sound like what i just went through. My head gasket was damaged and the exhaust was leaking into the coolant system and over pressuring the coolant system. Which in turn made the coolant overflow into the overflow bottle and never return to the engine. so after a while the coolant system would run out of coolant and overheat. fill your radiator up all the way (with water if you have to) and drain your overflow bottle all the way. drive it around and let it sit and idle for a while. check the overflow bottle to see it it's full. If it is, let your car sit and cool for a long while, if the overflow bottle is still full than you probably have a headgasket blown. After the engine cools remove the radiator cap, pay attension to see if it's under pressure when you remove it. My repair was $2600, running great now though. You can get by for a while by getting a transfer pump and transfering your coolant from your overflow bottle back into your radiator once it cools, so you don't have to keep buying coolant as oftern. Even if you have to get the head gasket replaced it sounds like you would have a great car though. I love my LLbean outback.

Hello fellow Subaru freaks, I just got my 84 GL wagon running again. Now my dash warning lights (voltage, parking brake, a couple others) won't turn off. It's like they are on half bright though. When i pull the parking brake the light doubles in brightness. Is this a fuse or maybe a warning my alternater is about to crap out? Thanks, Stoner Dude

Welp, got this bad boy back on the road. Had to charge the batter, replace one tire, new headlight, windsheild wipers blads. gotta do the front brake pads next. changed the oil and gonna flush the coolant. Did a car wash and it's running good now. don't know how many times i wanted to give up on this thing. Glad i didn't though.

i have an 84 GL wagaon. My pump relay is screwed down with a bolt that screws the hood latch open. It's a black box that has a 6 pin conenector. I went through this same business. has your car sat for any amount of time? My ultimate problem ended up being a clogged fuel line inside my tank. If your pump works, take off the fuel line at the tank and see if fuel comes out. You may have the beginnes of a clogged fuel line?

welp i got my tank fixed!!! Took it to a radiator repair shop and the radiator dude poured acid in the line and also had to put acid in the tank to melt off the metal mesh filter sock. $75. now time to get it all back together and on the road again.