xdeadeye1

THis video shows ETCG changing the CV Axles. Looks to be the way to change the lower ball joint too.?

I tried again today. I didn't lift up the engine because the thing that's in the way from underneath is the cv axle. I have some play in the axle and the boot is torn,, so im just popping off the axle and ordering new ones while im there. From above, the tranny cooler line are in the way. Thanks for input.

So youre sayin don't go from the top,, go from bottom. And its not the cross member that's in the way its the axle. I think I will also try putting the socket on the nut first and then try jamming the extension in to IT. ** sorry if I seem over dramatic, im just frustrated.

ok gotcha,, I have the mounts undone,, so yeah I can raise the engine,, and that should help.. Ill try that tomorrow. I can see how the wobble extension SHOULD work,, but just cant get it on the nut square enough. Thanks.

I got the 3 easy ones im down to the drivers side nut at the bottom I went and bought a wobble and a universal joint . Neither work The wobble only gives 12% angle / flex,, the universal is practicly bent at 45 Degrees. The cv axle is in the direct path of the nut ... Seriously how do you guys get that off? DO you remove the entire axle in front of it ?? I think Fairtax said use a 12 inch wobble extension,, Im using a 10" and it can reach easily but I cant get the socket over the nut squarely. only thing I can see to do is remove the axle. don't really want to.

When I ordered my gaskets for the head, I went ahead and got the Fel pro Oil pan gasket as well. Mistake?

should I use one of these? http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-3-Piece-Universal-Impact-Socket/dp/B000VNPOWK/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KYDJ5C5BJ2X124FV8JN I see the wobble extensions.. most are 6" or I think I saw a 9".

Ok so I have to: 1. access this from below where it looked hopeless. 2. Use a 3/8 drive impact swivel and a whatever works extension. 3. And use an impact wrench it too? Or a breaker bar. ? ah this I did not know.. I thought it was only that upper driver side bolt that went all the way through. I didn't realize the starter had one . The vids posted on engine removal don't talk about accessing this nut. I wonder if I jack up the engine.. (the engine mounts are unbolted) if I would get more room in there and maybe work better.. Im doing this on my back in my driveway. ps. I appreciate all of your input.

ok ill try that. I hope it comes off easier than the other 4,, I had to use a cheater pipe. on 3/8 drive ratchet.

guys im currently doing my head gasket too, Im about ready to pull the engine out but there are 2 issues. 1. The nut where the tranny meets the engine,, on the drivers side,, How the deuce do you get that out of there.? I got under the car and there is no way. I don't think I can get it from the top. 2. The starter. I seen some vids wehre they pull the starter. Do I need to do this? I have a 96 EJ22 automatic. It does seem to be in the way of me reaching that nut.. but it doesn't seem like its a definite need to pull it either. Thanks.

Thanks guys I got them off, Just took a little more torque,, 3 studs came out,, one stud stayed in and the nut came off.

spray nine makes "Grez Off" which is supposed to work well

gasoline.

One stud has come out on each side. The nuts don't turn. Im hoping just to get the studs out and put new in. I could apply more pressure via 1/2 " drive ,, and I could use the impact wrench to get some vibration in it..

Havent gotten out the studs yet. Using 3/8 breaker bar. 14mm socket 6point. Should I move up to a half inch wratchet and extension? Should I use this junky impact wrench I have to help loosen it? It doesn't have the kick that a pneumatic one has.. Im just looking for ideas. I DO NOT want to break off these studs. I have no welder or torches. I DO have access to a burnz-o-matic torch.

Going to pull my ej22 this weekend, going to put it on an engine stand. Anyone know before i take it out,, what bolts i should use on the engine stand? The stand has 4 flat bar dog ears to attach to the block. DO i need bushings/ spacers and what bolt/ thread and length... Any help is appreciated.. I just would rather have the hardware needed before i have the engine hanging there

its probably not the rear main seal its the little cover in the back of the engine. The only way to seal it is by pulling the engine

Thanks Gary. Any precautions I should take on these last two studs? Im just scared im going to break them Im using pb blaster and a 3/8 drive breaker bar w/14mm socket I have an electric impact wrench which is ancient. Should I leave that out of possible solutions.? I can do this work ,, im just looking for tips on how YOU would do it. Thanks.

Hi guys. 96 legacy wagon 2.2, w/ 4EAT. Im replacing my head gaskets,, Im fixing to take the engine out of the car. The nuts are rusted on to the studs. So the studs are turning out of the head. Which is fine,, at least they aren't breaking , (knock on wood.) I got 2 out so far,, Anyway im looking to replace these studs. But when I go look for them online,, I cannot find them anywhere. Well I found one place on line,, on EBAY,, and they want 20 dollars for 4 studs and 4 nuts.. So im askin ,,, Where do I get these ? I can try going to my local dealer I guess,,, I just think this should be a lot more common.

alpop, youre not alone here! I just am not advanced enough to lend you any help.. sorry.

You could also haul it via uhaul dolly. If you use ANY type of dolly, Make sure you Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear end.

are you trying to sell it?

didn't realize a manual. Deleted.

yeah you need to make sure your coolant levels are topped off and no air bubbles in it. If it still doesn't work after that, then make sure the flap door is working properly. if that is working properly and the coolant levels are high,, then you might have some kind of obstruction in your heater core. but chances are 99% its either coolant level or flap door.

clutch pack is for automatic? This is automatic. Thanks all for the replies.