xdeadeye1

I saw a 95 legacy wagon automatic for sale. @ $2500 it said it had low miles ,, like 20k. I called Found out its actually 200k. The body is nice, no rust. No damage. interior looks nice from what I can tell. Power everything. The guy dropped the price over the phone to 1800. Guy said it has 2 new front tires and 2 new axles. He did say it has some torque bind, but that's not what he called it. Just that when you did a hard turn that it made a noise. Worth it ?

Im thinking your issues lie in one of these inputs: but again,, I really don't know the answer. TCU Inputs • Throttle sensor/idle switch • Vehicle speed sensor #1 • Vehicle speed sensor #2 • Tachometer signal • Inhibitor switch • Cruise control signal • ATF temperature sensor • Ignition/battery voltage • 1-HOLD switch (if so equipped) • Forced FWD TCU Location MPT Assembly MPT Clutch MPT Clutch Hub Reduction Shaft Seals MPT Power Flow 11

He's Usually right. Thanks for helpin so much fairtax.

Throwing out ideas.. (im not a mechanic) What if the Over drive is kicking in when it shouldn't be. It wouldn't have good power.

timber. Faitax is right on. I had the same problem last fall, here is the thread where I got advice and how I did things. There are some pictures also, and it looked just like yours. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149417-harmonic-balancer-quit-spinning/?hl=%2Bquit+%2Bspinning

yeah hes was sayin how we have to make sure the torque converter don't get bumped and come off.. I never dealt with this so I don't know the consequences.. but ill take your hack and use it to keep the thing in there. Thank you so much for your reply.

gloyale, felpro head gasket ok?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=122608 Did I screw up by getting these for my head gasket?

... bueller?

Fairtax. My friend who is a chevy guy,, is telling me to take the whole tranny out with the engine instead of taking just the motor out. Can you tell me why its done this way so I can explain it to him? He thinks its easier to do it this way. yes I do need to do my separator plate.

Oh and one other question. before I remove the engine.. Should I go thru the access hole in the top of the engine wehre it meets the tranny, and undo some bolts in there? I saw this on a video somewhere and now I cant find that same vid. I have 96 2.2 Automatic.

Hey Up north. I went to Autozone and bought /rented a pressure tester for the radiator. It didn't show any leaks. I topped off with water,, ran it up the road and back and got it warmed up good. Came home , no sign of any leaks. Removed Radiator cap,, and when accelerator hit,, it spewed water out the top. I put the cap back on ,, and looked in the bottle. Had my daughter push the accelerator to about 2k or 2500 rpms. There was Air bubbles in the over flow tank. So im pretty sure this is Head Gasket. Im going to pull the engine. to replace both head gaskets and replace Seperator plate,, and rear main seal while im in there. brains mobile has a vid, but he leaves the engine in the car. Do I need to pull the intake manifold off before I pull the engine.. or should I wait till after? I have access to crane and stand. but this will be biggest job ever attempted on a car. (Other than my Heater core).

thanks climbing. I recently did my timing belt and idlers and oil pump.. I really would rather do the heads in the car, but not sure if it isn't easier to pull it,, gary gross may be able to tell me . I do probably need to get a new separator plate on the back of the engine though, so theres that. Im not convinced its my head gasket yet.. but all signs are pointing there. I understand about getting the heads resurfaced. But what about the block? Am I going to need to scrape the block of all gasket residue or something? Because to me that would be very hard while still in the car. Mine is 96 legacy wagon 2.2.

96 legacy wagon 2.2. Im having similar problems. Mystery disappearance of coolant. Then it acts like it gets an air bubble and the temp goes up. Radiator coolant and overflow are not hot. hot.. im at a loss as to what to do. I stopped at an auto zone,, they didn't know what I was talking about "testing the coolant for exhaust fumes" I don't know where the coolant is going . If its my head gasket ,, do I just remove the heads and take them to machine shop and replace gaskets?

Update on my problem. I took the cowl off above the firewall. There is a drain there,, and one on the drivers side. Poured water down the holes.. didn't notice anything of note no leaks visible in the cab. As I had the passenger door open and feeling for leaks and observing the water pouring , I noticed the black door seal was not in the right place and loose. The water that comes out of the drain runs down the front of the door jam to the ground,, very close to where the door seal would be working against water. I THINK (not confirmed) That the water was running down the drain and behind the seal of the door and into the cabin that way. ruling out the impossible to find the possible here. window looks fine, floor pan, its not the heater core. The only other think I havenet done is to shoot air up the exit hose of the A/C system.

its been a while and the front passenger carpet is still wet. Went to carwash to get the salt washed off ,, there is a drip under the dash,, close to the pillar. not Super far under the dash.. something is leaking... Windshield? Im not going to pull the windshield. Go get some silicone?

Tjohnson I had the same exact problem a few months back. I had lots of help from members here. Here is my situation,, with pictures etc.. If you have it all solved already,, great.. If not, hope this helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149417-harmonic-balancer-quit-spinning/?hl=%2Bquit+%2Bspinning

No sunroof. No antifreeze,, I changed heater core last summer. The water is clear and no smell. The hose inside the cabin looks in tact as far as I can see, I think I will try some air up the drain tube in case the zip tie didn't do the job. I can also check under the car and look at the floor pan.. but the hose treatment might be the way to go. I just haven't seen a thing dripping.. Just a sopping passenger side floor.

96 legacy wagon 2.2 EAT, has A/c I read where a clogged drain could be causing water to come out on to my floor, I don't see anything dripping. Today I put a zip tie up the drain tube that comes out of the firewall,, didn't see any water come out. The carpet is really wet... if I push on it,, I can see standing water. Only on passenger side. only on the flat part of the floor. Anyone deal with this before? I don't see any way for the plastic cowl to come off ,, (at the base of the windshield),,, to look for a plugged drain hole in there....

ok thanks guys. / end

ok that's not what I was expecting... I know where my cv joints are and the axles attach to the wheels. but im talking about sitting still at mcdonalds..

Ok this is no huge deal,, 96 2.2 eat wagon Car runs great. I just notice when im sitting at idle in gear.. like in a drive thru, The car feels a little rough . If I put it in neutral,, it goes away and idles quietly/normally. Any suggestion? Is it normal? Just wondering what you would do. Thanks

In my opinion. You should be outraged. You shouldn't feel guilty at all for being upset. Anyone in their right mind would change out all the idler pulleys with the new belt. I don't know the law. But this could be something you consider for small claims court. Good luck. Don't let it go.

heartless,, timing jump cause this,, like one or 2 teeth?

^^^^^^ THIS