xdeadeye1

here is my idea.. hypothesis.. the oil leak coated your timing belt,, and stopped turning your smooth idler on your water pump.... shot in the dark,, im no mechanic.

regarding brand of heater core... I bought the cheapest from rock auto.. no problems,, its made better than oem it has "legs" where it sits inside the heater box.. the oem didn't,,it sat on its fins..

the oil pump is right there behind the timing cover. The crank shaft runs right thru the oil pump. It powers the pump. IMO something failed there... the seal,,,, or maybe inside the pump. I recently had mine apart,, Inside the pump there are screws in a ring ,,,, they back out on their own! I have a 96 legacy wagon, 2.2 also.. I put blue thread locker on my screws and re tightend them down and put on new crank seal as well as the o ring inside the pump. I got the felpro gasket kit from Rock auto..

I didn't with my 96 legacy wagon. The heater core "box" was separate from the A/c box. I followed this web site to do my heater core.. yes I know its not a forester,, just offering what I have. www.beergarage.com

how so? you could at least find the cat

Lock the cat in the car.

I still don't know how to lock my doors,, kind of afraid to get locked out.. too.

I checked coolant,, cant fit any more in there. The Flap door HAS GOT TO BE closed. Started tearing it up... procrastinating,, lol,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Is the heater core already bypassed? Just sayin. If previous owner bypassed a leaking Heater core... you will have no heat.

well It was the baffle door which I broke in the middle of the heater core replacement. I believe its broke again,, and not opening. I will check the fluid again to make sure also.

Hi guys just sharing here.. (dont do what i did) Well when i got the car (96 legacy wagon), i found that the heater core was bad,, i bypassed it but winter was coming so i tore it open and changed it out. i follwed this: http://beergarage.com/subyheatercore.aspx Well when i finally got the heater box out,, i couldnt get it apart,,, i took out what i thought were all the screws,, but didnt take the one out in the bottom center.. I thought the big pin that was going thru the flapp door was holding it together,, so i hit it with a hammer to drive it out/ down thru.... (wrong answer) I didnt know it was all one piece plastic. duh... So i finally got it apart and found that i had broke the bottom of the door flap at the bottom as you can see in picture 2. SOOOO i glued it.. Yes,, i used some kind of super epoxy from advance auto... it seemed to be ok. Put it allll back together,,, i had heat! I had air.!! Now its november and i dont have any heat. AT ALL. Soo im going to tear it all down again and go back in. So this is a PSA, dont hit that plastic thing with a hammer... and 2 dont use glue.

Thanks upnorthguy. I had no idea.. I just ordered some bulbs from ebay.

lol so my rear defog and my cruise button in my 96 should be lit up when I have my lights on? I know they light up when I turn them on. My dashboard looks like im in blackout drive at night.

i believe he is saying pull the engine up and out of the front. and i would try to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold if i do this.

ok,, question. CAN I remove the transmission from the engine without pulling the engine,, there by accessing the separator plate and the rear main seal? If I CAN ,, is this route EASIER than pulling the whole engine.?

I also already replaced the valve cover gaskets. I was thinking it could be that separator plate thing,, but was hoping it wasn't. I don't see myself pullin the engine.. im not sure about how to separate the tranny from the engine and what that all entails. But as you said, oily sludge covers everything down there.

96 Legacy L wagon ej22 , Automatic trans. Ok I recently changed my timing belt and cam/crank seals. All is good there. For a long time I have had some oil smoke that would waft up from under the engine somewhere, not a lot, but I havent figured it out yet. but whatever it is its dripping on the exhaust or manifold somewhere. YEsterday,, I drive up a steep gravel road, about a 1/4 mile to my friends hunting camp. the awd worked like a charm,, no spinning,, no gunning of the engine. get to the top to park,, and I felt like uncle buck. Lots of smoke coming from under the engine somewhere. cheech and chong had nothing on me.. My oil doesn't go down a lot or very fast.. Any ideas on this? I have been under the car, it looks like my engine was "designed to leak" everything oily.

Its all gone,, no more squeal.. I guess it was just the new slides and pads on the old rotors..

What about using those spring over strut deals.. I am only aware of them,, im not an expert ,,its just an idea. Or if there are leaf springs,,, using a helper spring of some type .

This was about the easiest pad change I ever did. No problems.. New raybestos pads fit nicely,, compared to duralast crappers at autozone... no modifications needed. I didn't scratch the rotors.. the car doesn't pull to either side.. I DID noice as I was traveling on a state road about 50 mph,, that I would hear more or less squealing as I went around turns,, today didn't hear as much of the squealing ,, ill post again later after some more driving.

Put new pads on old rotors. Raybestos pads. 96 Legacy 2.2 wagon. the front wheels are squealing! not just during braking.. when I brake it squeaks a lil but all goes away. So is this just my new pads breaking in on the old rotors? I put on new slide plates and new pads,,and greased the pads, and a lil on the slides,,

sorry for double post.

Thanks lmdew,, that was indeed the problem,, forgot to plug in the emergency flasher under the front panel.. All is well.

I thought I did. would that effect the turn signals too? I cann pull that vent panel and check it.. but if its plugged in ,, then what?

I thought I did. would that effect the turn signals too? I cann pull that vent panel and check it.. but if its plugged in ,, then what?