xdeadeye1

Ok recently (before my crank Pully issue) I had replaced the Heater core in my 96 legacy wagon , 2.2 Everything works but the emergency flashers and the turn signals. The lights on the the left lever work,, but when I use the lever as a turn signal,, it don't work. same with the 4 way flashers,, Nothing... I know I had the dash out,, but if I messed something up,, I really don't know what I did. Any help in fixing this would be appreciated. IM an electrical moron. Thanks.

He uses same thing in this video:

I found this on a web site regarding the 2.2 engine. This could explain the melting damage to the inner passenger timing cover: Notice the locating pin on back of the sprockets for reinstallation. Also locate the reluctors on the back of the left camshaft sprocket. These are the cam angle sensor reference triggers. Note: The left camshaft sprocket must not be installed on the right camshaft, as damage to the inner right cam belt cover may occur. A no start condition also will result.

The felpro gasket kit came with the O ring, the crank seal, and a thin gasket for around the oil pump,, not paper,, not cork,, not rubber,, its kinda like a thin clothlike paper. So that's what I used after I cleaned up both surfaces.

the key ways damaged a little,, however.. all the expert guys here said its not that big of a deal. The biggest thing is to yes get them lined up correctly with the key way,, and then Torqe the crank bolt down very well. Im going to Torque mine to 125 ft lbs. and use some Blue thread locker. Update,, I got the Oil pump off and sure enough,, TWO of those Phillips head machine screws were backing out ... I cleaned it up and put thread locker on the screws and put it back on with a new mating gasket and O-ring and crank Seal (Felpro gasket Kit)

The driver side plastic looks pristine. No issu there at all. The engine runs fine . The car had been wrecked in the past . I found that out when replaced the core support and head light, fender and hood. Nephew (the previous owner) had hit a deer. Then I got the car. Well when I changed out the core support we found putty work on the core support we were replacing. The air bag also seems to be disconnected, Everything is there but where the yellow wire conduit comes up to the front,, something is missing there. so last night I smoothed up the interior of the crank sprocket with some 220 paper,, today ill tackle the crank snout and then proceed to take out the oil pump .

Follow up with proceedings. 1. I soaked in pb blaster, bought prybars, tapped my rump roast off. wasnt comign off. 2. Tapped the holes in the crank sprocket with a m7 -1 tap, got bolts and used the crows foot of a crank pulling kit i got from advance auto. 3. With bolts in the holes i started pulling.. it was hard,, i mean , "just not easy" i had to turn this puller till the sprocket got all the way off the end of the crankshaft snout. 4. Just tap it they said,, use a prybar they said,,it'll come right off they said,,,, NOT SO! lol Im just sayin,, no way in hell i would have got that off there without a puller. 5. I cleaned the front of the engine with a cheaper cleaner than the 27 dollars they want for a gallon of parts cleaner... smelled like gasoline,,,,,,, surely not though 6. Pulled the cam seals on left and right cleaned em up a lil. 7. got some 220 cloth type sand paper,, cleaned up inner sprocket,, tomorrow the crank shaft snout. 8. will pull the oil pump tomorrow and fix as necessary. 9. used a pice of luan floor plywood to guard my condenser. 10. Take a look at my passenger side interior timing cover BACK. This should have a circular hole in the middle of it, for the crank seal area. But alas mine is melted.. I dont know if the engine got so hot at some point,, or if some yum yum decided to use a torch on something in there and melted it. Thanks for following along guys... I hope all this helps someone else like me.

I just did mine, its no picnic but it can be done. I have a legacy though. I used this website to do mine.. beergarage.com

thanks for stayin with the topic guys.. I need no less than 60 mm bolts,, to use the puller... so I ordered the m7 bolts. I have not yet gotten pb blaster, I was relying on wd40. I guess I can stop and get some tomorrow,, I just didn't / don't have much faith that its that much better than wd40.. Its frustrating trying to tap on this thing and pry on it,, I will get it eventually. I am thinking because my woodruff key was all chewed up that maybe its a little more stuck on there.

Soo, i tapped the crank sprocket with an M7 -1 Tap. Ill use a crank pully puller from advance auto parts to use on the face of it. So i needed to find m7 bolts about 3 " long.. Guess what nobody has....? Correctamundo.... nobody has an M7 bolt anywhere near that long. so now i need to order it off of Ebay.

ok just ignore me if this doesn't apply. but : the long driveshaft goes to the rear where there is a bearing of some kind. After that bearing is a short shaft to the rear differential. Unbolt the short shaft from the long shaft. You don't need to do anything with the tranny.

I did the same thing with 95 legacy awd. with auto transmission. I towed it . I put it on a dolly and unbolted the rear shaft with 4 bolts. No problems.

There could be a business that rebuilds them in your area. There is one in my area..

Im going to tap the sprocket and put bolts in it to pull it. Anyone ever do this? IM hoping the sprocket isn't some kind of really hard metal and I can get threads in it.

1. is a dead blow hammer ok to tap on it? 2. I can just keep working it by hand and maybe a coiuple screwdrivers behind it,, BUT Imdew said I was on the right track... did you mean about tapping the sprocket? I appreciate the help guys

Ok I got parts on the way and timing cover and belt off. I got a new problem . HOW do I get that TIMING SPROCKET off the crank shaft? Its on there tight. I went to advance auto and bought/rented a puller kit,, but it wont work. The sprocket has 2 holes but they aren't threaded. The puller with the three grabbing arms are too thick to fit behind the sprocket. I put on wd40 and tried to pull it off by hand, but it wont budge. should I use heat? Possible solution? I have a tap kit. I thought maybe if I tap those two holes in front of the sprocket I might be able to put in 2 bolts and pull it off with the kit from adavance auto. In my kit I found that the M7 tap seems to be the best fit. at least the end starts inside the hole. I have: an M7 x 0.75 thread and a M7 x 1 thread.. (the 1 thread is a coarser thread, the .75 thread is fine) Im at an impass without some help. so,,,, please help if you know what to do.

Those idler pulleys and belt and water pump were replaced about 50-60 k miles ago. The build up / discoloration on them is scrapeable. I will get a new belt and idler pulleys. I will get a new crank pulley with the new key and clean up the crank as well as I can. I will get 2 new cam seals. And i will get a new oil pump seal for behind the crankshaft gear. So should i pull the whole oil pump and replace the gasket and the O ring too? ( i have been watching you tube vids all day )

Mr. Eggleston, From the pics would you also replace those idler pulleys? I haven't taken them off yet to check them. but im saying "from the way they look" is that normal? This will make a difference in if I buy a kit or just a belt.. I guess im also going to replace the pully,, I have no woodruff key, and it comes with the pully. My pully is a little wallowed out by the shaft spinning inside it with the key in it. I know im asking a lot of silly questions, just want to do a good job and be sure the car is reliable again. The cam seal, crank seal and oil pump O ring are a lil more above my pay grade,, but I think I can do it. Being that the car is 180k miles,, and never had these seals replaced I guess I should probably do it. The water pump was replaced about 50 k ago .

This is the driver side cam pully with greasy black hard stuff piled up behind it.