xdeadeye1

i cant post pictures so ill tell you about it. (if anyone knows the trick im all ears) 1. lots of metallic dust around the idler pullys. 2. All the idler pullys ,, instead of being shiny from the belt wearing on it ,,, all seem brown like some kind of build up is on them.. either oil,, or rust.. not sure.. 3. looking at the passenger side cam pully, (the wagon wheel) it looks like there is a build up of some sort behind the wheel, Looks like hardend black grease or melted plastic... not sure at this point. 4. Belt looks to be in good condition. 5. keyway seems shallow . Its wallowed out a little too wide for normal,,, and it doesnt go back very far under the crank sprocket. about 1/4 to 3/8 " length total overall. The crank pulleys are diffent by 20 dollars in price. If Mr. Eggleston says use the cheaper one is ok,, then i will.

I got pictures,, but I cant figure out how to post them up here.. nothing working

going to buy the harmonic balancer / pully ,, but apparently there are two types.. To select the correct one , it asks for the 9th digit of the model number. Which should be P or G. Well I found the vin number,, and the 9th number is an x. So under the hood I found a plate. the only thing that is close is an Engine type number.. The 9th digit of the engine number is P. (which of course is the more expensive one) but the web sites all say this to refer to the 9th digit of the model plate... wtf.

Good info. Im going to tear into it and get some pics up by tomorrow. Just been crappy weather.

I had torquebind with my 96 legacy wagon. it would shudder on turning and starting out.... ALLL I did was change my tranny fluid and filter,,, and it went away immediately.

around 180 k on the car. The water pump and timing belt change was done by my brother a few years ago. So it was him who put no lock tite on the crank bolt,, and Im pretty sure he didn't torque down the bolt at the end of the job.. It has taken a long time for this bolt to work loose. I never noticed any significant wobble on the Pully when I got the car this past spring, I changed the 2 belts and drove it to florida and then drove it all summer. I just got the heater core done and was feeling happy.. when poof.. as far as a kit,, yeah I just priced some on rock auto,, There is a kit from gates for 115. And another one from "DNJ" for $94. Maybe ill get some pictures on here of things.

Ok, I figured out why the access port in the top of the engine wasn't seeing anything moving in there.. and I couldn't figure out what to jam up. The Crank Bolt was loose. I was turning the bolt and it wasn't turning the crank.. Pulled the bolt. Pully was a bit wallowed out in the back,, going to replace it. The key is lying in there underneath the crank gear,,, loose ,, but I cant get it out,, it gets stuck as I pull it out. It isn't pretty. The key is sheared and or bent. Im nervous hoping the Key WAY is still usable. so im going to begin the process of a timing belt change ,,, (radiator pull, cover removal etc... ) then try to get the crank gear off the shaft.. and pray the crank is still serviceable.. If any of you smart guys are following this thread,, I would appreciate you checking in on me for questions etc.. Im a shade tree mechanic,, and im in uncharted waters.

Hi guys. I am new here because im looking for advice and answers. I got this 96 Legacy wagon 2.2, this spring,,and im planning on using it as a run around car and especially for the winter. I just got done replacing the heater core,, now im driving in town,, nothing harsh.. And I hear a rattle noise and some lights come on the dash. I pull it over, look under the hood,, and the Crank pully isn't turning. After doing some research im attempting to fix this. Its raining so im here talking to you. 1. Getting the Crank Bolt out. I have read about and actually found the access port on top of the engine.. But I look in there with a flashlight and I don't see anything turning when I move the crank bolt with a breaker bar. Some guidance on how to wedge a screwdriver in there to stop the engine from turning would be a great help. Especially for later when im Re assembling. 1a. I'm planning on putting my breaker bar against the ground and kicking the engine over if I cant figure out how to jam the fly wheel in there. 2. Once I get the Pully off ,,,, (its currently very wobbly on the bolt which is still tight in the crank. ) Im almost positive the keyway sheared off . because the pully will turn on the shaft/bolt. I guess I will get a new key and put in the cleaned out keyway. Im worried I damaged the crank shaft by the keyway,,,, I will post here again when it stops raining and I can actually work on it. more. If any of you have done this / ran into this,, advice is appreciated. Im concerned as to what caused this,, and also what to do if the keyway is chipped or something. Thanks. John Marietta, OH