xdeadeye1
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Everything posted by xdeadeye1
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96 legacy wagon. 2.2, EAT. (the one is my picture) 215 k miles. I don't really need the car anymore.. but I hate letting it go. Engine is really good. Head gasket timing belt done, new brakes,, etc. So then I start getting noises. I cant tell where its all coming from,, front or back or both. Whines that increase with speed. and a vibration I can feel. Front bearings were done. Not the rear. Also I rebuilt my cv axles when I did the head,, but I think I got some grease that leaked out of the boots because of not knowing what I was doing with the wire clamps. So the rear has original bearings and cv axles. I was thinking maybe its the u joint that's staked in there. IDK. I kinda need a procedure to diagnose it all. Help is appreciated. (when im driving I cant be certain where all the noise is coming from.)
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repair shop got the bolt out without drilling, chased the threads, took it home and a few hours later all reassembled. (the hardest part was that steering rack boot.. ak;k ;kald&^^%%&* Took it to get aligned today. driving home 65 mph. Steering wheel still shaking. Starting to think its the tires. Drives super straight and doesn't pull.
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2 pickle forks did the trick in about 4 minutes of effort and having buddy hold the knuckle straight . so relieved. Now off to the machine shop and hope they can drill this out.
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I feel like the fork is bottoming out, before it separates. I'm borrowing a second fork from a friend today and use 2 of em. If that don't work I'll do what mssmithmmx said. I got a couple bfh. Thanks so much for input guys. I second guess what I'm doing a lot.
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I may. But I gotta get this stinking control arm off the bottom of the ball joint. My only thought to do next is a big hand sledge and wack the control arm down. everything is disconnected or nearly so. I really cant get a swing at the ball joint spindle from under neath. The pickle fork just goes so far in and doesn't move separate it.
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thanks for the input. Im at a point where I have everything disconnected from the knuckle. except I cant get the ball joint up out of the control arm. I have a pickle fork and I pound it in there.. and it seems to bottom out without removing the control arm from the ball joint stem. This thing has fought me every step of the way. Maybe if I were a real mechanic it wouldn't be so bad. Im just a guy with a lot of tools and little money so I try to fix my own stuff. I goofed and cut the tie rod in half, so I could feel like I accomplished something. now the knuckle flops around. doh! I rented a tool from auto zone its a inner tie rod end remover its about 2 1/2" diameter the flat spots on the inner rod are situated as such that I cant turn the tool due to ears on the tool. Space isn't big enough. SO ill take it back and see if I can find another solution. in the mean time there is this ball joint to contend with..
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Yes please! very nice of you.
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broke it. F it. now trying to get ball joint out with a pickle fork, wacking it. not sure how im getting the BJ out when its not on the car. I think im taking this to a machine shop to drill it out.
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see above post.. I cant delete this one.
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taking knuckle off. got everything ready to go but cant get the abs sensor out... any suggestions? I took out the bolt and got a razor blade and then a thin scraper under 70 % of it. Afraid to ruin it. im grabbing with a small channel lock and wiggling, and not budging. *** dang I just check the prices of the sensors on rockauto.. they are minimum $92. holy crap. I don't have 92 to be throwing at a wheel sensor. Anybody have a suggestion? I guess I can unplug it from wherever that wire runs to and then remove the knuckle....? rather take it out now though. DILLY DILLY!!
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I rounded the head off trying to use an impact. PUlling the knuckle and drilling out tomorrow.
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TO THE PIT OF MISERY!!!!!!! DILLY DILLY!!!!
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Ive done two of them. My advice is to find a subie mechanic there. Bite the bullet and pay that man his money. you have no garage, no driveway, and im assuming limited tools along with no hoist or engine stand. There are some really smart people in this forum. Hopefully someone is from there and can recommend a guy. **forgot to mention its like 115 degrees outside.
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2000 outback . Doing the front driver ball joint and tie rod . Pinch bolt isn't moving. Im afraid to snap it off.. So im going to use this method that uniberp stated. I think im also going to heat up that end of the knuckle (the thread side) with a propane torch and get it hot. Suggestions appreciated. Bolt seems really stuck and I want to do this right so I don't run into a rounded head or snapped bolt
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I have my 96 for sale. I really don't want to sell it. It has vibrations going on. I rebuilt the heads / gaskets and timing / water / brakes.. / heater core. Its a good running car.. I think I should just keep it forever.
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Update: I got it off. Using a Sawzall, and a rotozip cutting wheel. I cut into the bottom,, then chiseled a crack up to the top. I ended up making two cuts about an inch apart then grabed the bottom "nut " on the bottom with a channel lock and twisting. Some bloody knuckles but its off. I only cut into the plastic threads at the top in one spot, and its not all the way through. I think im ok. Thanks for responding.
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Good point GD. I got the car (2006 with 120 k miles) for free from a friend who doesn't work on cars. His son drove It into the ground/tore it up. I got It on the run now, except for this &&&%(#(# oil filter. I looked at it again from the top side, taking the assembly off wont be an easy task, but its a road I may need to travel if I break it and still cant get it off. Buddy of mine said, "pay the 70 dollars and take it to VW dealership and let them change the oil. If they break it they can fix it." I might feel a little dirty doing this. If I don't take it to VW I think I will. 1. Try again with the socket / wratchet and try to find a heat gun. to heat it up first. 2. If it breaks, Do what montana tom said and use a big chisel and hammer and try to split/crack it all the way to the top. 3 If that fails, Take the oil cooler off and then the whole assembly off the side of the block.
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after reading that...IM thinking I may just take the whole assembly off. I found them on ebay for 44. Not sure how big a job this is. Gotta look at it.
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I don't think I can get a chisel up in there. very tight. I found a replacement on rockauto for 17 dollars. I called a dealership service and I spoke to a woman in service, but she wouldn't put anyone on who knew what to do. Youre right I may just brake it apart , if I can get a pipe wrench on it, I tried but the pipe wrench jaws weren't deep enough to handle a 3 or 4 inch diameter oil housing and it wouldn't bite . Ill try a bigger pipe wrench and if it bites, ill just keep twisting till it breaks apart or cracks , hopefully all the way to the seat at the top. I really don't want to melt it with a torch, because of the melting to the threads possibility.
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I have an old electric impact wrench I tried. It didn't budge. I was hoping the jarring would help . But no. I have not tried tightening it yet. No I didn't try when the car was up to operating temperature. I really cant right now, because I also have the oil pan off. (it had a hole in it) I have more room down there with the pan off, but still not enough to swing a dead cat.
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mods you can delete if you feel inappropriate. working on 2006 b6 passat 2.0T FSI engine. Trying to change oil filter. Plastic housing, with filter cartridge inside. The bottom of the filter housing is 6 sided. 36 mm. So I have a 6 side tool for this. It wont budge.ive had a lot of torque on it with a cheater pipe on a breaker bar. I think the nut head is going to strip / slip/ crack break , etc. I cant really get a grab at it from the side with a filter wrench or a pipe wrench,, too much stuff in the way. My next tries are: 1. finding one of those nylon filter straps that twist tighter etc.. and are accessed from underneath instead of the side. 2. Getting a heat gun, and heating the top of the filter housing where it meets the "block", getting it really warm then twisting at it again 3. Using a propane torch, and heating at it and doing the same thing. BUt if it fails,, just burning through the thing. My questions. 1.. WTF? Its plastic why don't it turn? 2. Heat will expand the plastic yes? and make it easier to turn? 3. What if I melt the thing and it sticks to the thread that I really cant reach. ? ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. I only post it here because I have another 2 subarus, and you guys know more about mechanics than anyone else I know. Thanks John, Marietta OH
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Thanks Maxx. I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads from rockauto. you are correct about the rear pads not making contact they were indeed stuck . on the back brakes I ground the edge of the pads to make them fit. On the front caliper brackets I did use a file and file down parts of the caliper, and the pads fit without grinding them. Driver front caliper (dual piston) had one piston sticking. I pulled the pistons and polished them up and replaced seals and boots. the one piston does have some minor pitting. I polished it up but idk how long before it rusts up and starts sticking again. Should have just replaced the calipers, but was trying to save money.
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partial update. put thrans x in transmission fluid. The delayed engagement went away really quickly. As you can see in the picture of the brake rotor above. The caliper isn't engaging with the rotor. I pulled the caliper, the slide pins are moving easily. the caliper piston shoved back into the caliper. The rotors are wore out I believe. They are high along the edge of the rotor. you can really feel the wear with your hands, where the pad meets. Anyway.. The pads also seemed jammed in the hardware/bracket and don't move due to the high edge of the rotor. At least it seems that way. So im getting new rotors and pads and hardware.
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some on ebay 13/14 yrs old selling or bidding at 10,900
