xdeadeye1

Thank you sir or maam. One last thing,, same car, 118 k miles. I'm ready to put this thing together but I don't have the oil pump o ring . Not to be confused with crank seal. Any way.. local Subaru says 3 days out. Anyone know a big box store alternate? I cant seem to find it. I thought I had it at napa Altrom brand PB3002 but its just a simple o ring. The one I believe is correct is not just a simple o ring. OR Do I just screw it,, and leave the old one in there.?

asking regarding 2000 Outback with 2.5 SOHC, Head Reinstall. IS THIS CORRECT? F A C D B E All Bolts 22 FP All Bolts 51 FP Back off all bolts 180 Back off all bolts 180 Again. All bolts to 31 FP All bolts turn 90 Degrees All bolts turn 45 Degrees Last Two center bolts (a, turn 45 degrees more.

ok,, sorry,, I have no leaks on my cams... I'm at 118 k miles. Should I pull the cam seals and replace them? Ill get a crank seal , I see on rock auto it comes with two seals so I think one is the oil pump o ring,, and the other is the crank seal.

I just went and ordered a 12 bolt set off ebay of genuine Subaru bolts for like 62 bucks. I don't think the ones I have are original,, and didn't want to risk it. Should I re build my oil pump while I'm this deep into it? or leave it alone?

so 2 head bolts have some rust on them. not terrible,, but its there.. i was going to clean them up with a wire wheel,, and re use. No markings on any bolts. Just gold in color. No noticable difference between the middle bolts and outer bolts either. So i was looking on rock auto and they all say they are TTY on there. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2000,outback,2.5l+h4,1434060,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308 Im pretty sure these are after market bolts . No markings. But if you say they are re usable ill use em.. ajusa aftermarkets are 25 bucks.. felpro et all aftermarkets are about 50 bucks. I know you told me they arent tty,, I guess the manufacture just wants to sell more bolts?

So do you think my gaskets were just aftermarket junk? or original? Going to use the same head bolts again. Going to Go ahead and get the Aisin, TKF-001 Timing /waterpump kit. 2000 outback wagon.

UPDATE: Timing Belt/rollers : ON closer inspection. The rollers are all Japanese,NSK or NEK (cant remember) , and the water pump has usab stamped on it. The belt itself says Gates.,, Made in USA I'm assuming the guy changed the belt,, but not the tensioner/ rollers.. I don't know. I rolled the rollers , I didn't notice any real bad wobbles ,, but I could hear the bearings as it was rolling,, and so I'm thinking they need changed. I pulled the heads. The head gaskets seemed to be peeling somewhat. The rubber coating coming off in various places. It seems to be a metal center. There is no stamp or logo on the Head gaskets.. Just grey metal and peeling dark grey rubbery coating. Both heads were weeping oil and the drivers side was leaking coolant pretty bad. ALSO the Head bolts are all the same , Gold in color, no markings on them . I expected to find the center head bolts different but they are the same as the others. 2 bolts have some rust on them. From the passenger side I believe. I plan on cleaning them up with a wire wheel. The rusty part was on the smooth bolt shaft. I remember the guy telling me he got new bolts when he did the head. But I'm wondering if he ever did the heads. Crossover tube. I ordered o rings from rock auto to replace the o rings. When I opened it up,,, the o rings seem squared. Is that just from the compression? The o rings I got are round.

I got the engine out.. Pulled the timing cover. It looks in really good shape. Previous owner said he changed it at 65k,, its now at 118k. The pulleys and tensioner are Japanese.. NEK on the rollers. Not sure about the belt,, didn't see a name yet. Should I go spend the 194 and do the timing / water pump, now? Current timing belt has 53 k on it.

I did the same thing on my 1996 legacy wagon, Under the seat. Put on compression fittings. I cant say much other than it works fine.

ok I'm confused too after trying to decipher that.. do I go ahead and order the TKF-001 I'm looking at this kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401299934403 2000 outback wagon, 2.5, automatic

yeah that same kit is on ebay.TKF-001. I sent message to seller to ask if it would fit. they said no. Wonder why. I know you know 20x more than they do. So ill get it.

I thought I had found an Aisin timing kit with water pump.. But I contacted the seller on ebay and they said it doesn't fit. its for a 2000 outback wagon 2.5 automatic ,, Anyone have a source where they get theirs? otherwise,, ill just go buy the gates kit,,, Chinese stuff and all.

Thanks for the replies. Ill check for the Head bolts if they are Subaru, ill re use them. What am I looking for to know that for sure? I'm getting up the resolve to do this job today. I put the car on a jack and removed belly pan. I started it and let it get up to temperature. Trying to make sure its the heads that are leaking and not some stupid hose somewhere. I can see that the passenger side front of the head is seeping oil it seems. I got 2 puddles of coolant one is coming off the cross member at the rear of the oil pan,, the other is further back on the driver side. I cant see the leak happening. but I'm pretty sure its from the drivers side head. So I guess I'm just going to do the job. I just don't want to do all this and put it together and find out its some cross over pipe pin hole. Maybe I can do a hillbilly pressure test on it when I get the engine out. (fill pipe with water and plug one end and blow.) This wasn't leaking when I bought it. I think maybe that catalytic converter problem I had,, caused pressure in my exhaust,, and blew the head gasket or something. It never over heated. PS. Thank you very much for taking time to answer questions

Head gasket job on 2000 Outback wagon. 2.5 SOHC, AUTO 117k miles. This is the 2nd time the job has been done.. (previously done approximately 63 k miles as a rebuilt title) I WOULD like to save the money. I'm putting out some dinero for a gates timing belt kit w/ pump, and a Fel-Pro total gasket kit, from rock auto. I seen a lot of different answers on the web.

i guess ill park it till i have time and weather to do the head fix. I dont have faith in a bottle of anything.. Bothers me i cant see where its leaking. have to assume its the head. So ill start that whole business with a new thread at some point. I think right now the next thing for me to solve is the p0420 code. I think whatever is going on is the reason this cars last Cat converter went bad.

i know the car was wrecked,, and the guy rebuilt it on a salvage title. You really cant tell its been wrecked. It has 117k miles. I asked the seller,, (who i kinda trust) He was up front about most everythynig. He told me he did the head gaskets back at 60 k miles when he was doing the re build,, along with the timing belt. He told me he replaced the head bolts, but found out after the fact, that he didnt need to. Im losing about a half galon of coolant in a week. Thats why i wondered about the whole "block sealer stuff" vs conditioner.

ill check into a pressure test kit,, but even if I do it,, I don't think I will be able to see where its coming from , because: I got under the car today and wheeled under it. Seems the leak is coming from the rear of the drivers side. The accumulation of wetness is dripping down off the steering knuckle / rack. The crossover beam covers most of the drivers side head and I really cant see the head gasket area on the drivers side. I took it for a drive and put some stress on it, up and down some hills at higher speed. GOt home parked, lifted hood. Steam is coming up from near the firewall, but from down below where I think its dripping on exhaust, or just because its 200 degree water seeping out somewhere. But its definitely coming up by the tranny fluid check stick. I can do the conditioner, but if its the head gasket I don't think it will help much. So then if you also think its head gasket,,, would you : A pull the drivers side head and change the gasket? leaving the engine in the car, but loosening the motor mounts and the manifolds. or B. do both sides this way. C. Pull the whole engine? OR put some kind of head gasket seal fix in a bottle into the coolant and then refill the system later.

Update: I took out the O2 sensor. It drove ok. So I ordered an aftermarket Catalytic converter, and took the car to a local shop. On fairtax's advice I also ordered a new O2 sensor for the front of the cat pipe. The car runs fine and that shifting issue was indeed the converter clog. This converter that clogged was an aftermarket converter with a life warranty. I think it was walker. (I called the previous owner, who said he had to put it on about 3 years ago. I am still throwing a code. I have a cheap code reader and it wasn't telling me what the code is, so I took it to autozone and had them read it. I had them print it out. Now I cant find it. But I'm 95% sure it was a P0420. This is on my 2000 outback wagon. 2.5 / 4EAT ------------ New issues. Coolant leak. I still havnt put it up in the air, it's been cold. Plus my jack needed fixed and I have a replacement now. But its a coolant leak, my overflow bottle needs topped off at times. I don't see any leaks on the top half. I see some steam, it drips on the down pipe, on the drivers side toward the rear of the engine. I took it to a local shop. I wanted them to tell me what is leaking. They couldn't find a leak. I told them it does when its running. idk. I left with no diagnosis as to what is leaking. But I think its probably that left side head. I have read that the 2.5 leaks external when there is a head gasket problem. Unlike my 96. So yeah, this leak and now this code,, which COULD be the reason the cat converters are failing on this car in the past. lastly, and this isn't really a problem, but this 2000 model is very different from my 1996, in that it seems to easily want to shift into overdrive quickly, and then it seems to stay there a tad too long. like ,, "hey it should have downshifted before now" that kind of thing. Thanks for any advice / replies.

. What kit did you use? Not sure I know what you mean about a kit with spacers. I'm fairly certain he wants this for looks mainly, and not much more.

Hi guys. Buddy got a 2016 crosstrek. He wants to put a lift kit on it. This is the model he wants to put on it. Primitive Racing http://get-primitive.com/lift-kits/148-2013-crosstrek-lift-kit.html he wants me to put it on for him. Im a shade tree mechanic. I dont have a lift or a spring compressor. Anybody here ever tackle this? Recommendations? Is it difficult? I messed with brakes and engine stuff, but never really fooled with suspensions before. Any help is appreciated.

I know im a pain in the rump roast. Sorry. A new O2 sensor upstream for an Automatic is 57 bucks on Rockauto.. and its denso. wtf. Ill get it if you really think i need one.

well i went and ordered an After market cat from ebay. See how it does.

Thanks for your feed back. Im still taking it out to the exhaust guy. HOWEVER Im wondering if i wouldnt be better off with just a piece of pipe to replace the cat. I dont have an inspection i have to do. So I dont HAVE to have the cat. So,, I guess my question. What is the draw back of deleting the cat converters..? WOuld i have a CEL light on all the time due to the missing O2 sensors? I dont want to have to replace another cat converter in 3 years.

Some good news. I got the part Fairtax gave me the link for and i removed the O2 sensor,,in the front. I took it for a drive , it was a bit loud, but the car ran pretty well and shifted! So im happy. The shop where i take it for exhaust work is about 10-15 miles away. IM planning on buying another cat converter and having them install it. Question: Do you think it will be ok to drive it that far with that O2 sensor out of its spot.? Would it cause a heat problem? Currently the sensor is just hanging straight down, with the metal part of the sensor resting on the side of the cat converter.

Check to see if previous owner didn't have a leaky core,, and just looped the two hoses together. To avoid pulling the heater core.