xdeadeye1

HI, Just wondering if you guys do anything special as far as preventing rust. I dont think anyone undercoats their cars anymore. The salt tears up the vehicles underneath and the fenders and rockers. My dad would put crude oil in a pump garden sprayer and spray the underside of his work vehicles and he claimed success. Anyone else do this? Have another remedy you use?

Thank you! I did just what you said.. I had a neighbor help me with the crossover drivers side,, but I ran the lines just like you said and everything is working fine. I used compressions fittings under the seat. then a union on the line to connect two pieces to get over to the drivers side brakes. I fished the line up over the rear end cross member. I bled each line , didn't see bubbles anymore. I only bled the back two brakes (didn't do the right front left rear left front right rear method) as I don't think I ran the system dry. The brakes are working.

Thanks. When I drop the tank, anything I should be careful of? I know there are some with issues of the filler neck or something.. I'm at 204k miles and I don't want to break everything while I'm doing this..

Hi guys , digging up this old thread looking for advice . 1996 legacy wagon, 2.2, AWD Automatic. Brake pedal went to the floor today all of a sudden. Nursed it home. Found the region of the leak. Its on a hardline,, from the right passenger side rear wheel. The fluid flows down the side of the gas tank, I cant see where the heck the lines go. Any advice is appreciated. I never did brake lines before. My neighbor has, and he will adivse me... but I gotta get on the ground and work underneath. My plan is either 1. drop the tank and try to tie in to the other line in an accessible area with a union or something.. or 2. Run an all new line under the car somewhere and try to tie it in ,, again in an accessible area with a union. I can read my hanes manual, but again I never did this before. Thanks for any help or advice in advance. John Marietta OH

205 k miles on mine never had a trans flush. Just changed trans fluid and filter. and anther time just changing the fluid.

I have 96 legacy. I took my hubs and rock auto Timken bearings to a local machine shop guy who didn't charge me much at all.

Guys going on a trip tomorrow. Any help appreciated. 1996 legacy wagon 2.2, 4 EAT. 196 k. Recently notice the instrument panel flicker, cant put my finger on how it looks,, but they didn't go out and come on,, just changed in brightness somehow. Last night , short trip,, no reason, they went out all together. I stopped car,, turned it off , turned it on.. They came back on ,, and seemed steady. Just want to avoid any problems,, and solve before I hit the road. Anyone experience this before? Thanks. John

Last time I changed the brake pads the ones I took off were like new.. So I kept them This time I looked at the bushings and the slide pin on the caliper,, The lower bushing was slow moving inside the caliper. So I used some brake cleaner and sprayed out the rubbers on the caliper , cleaned off the bushing and rubbed it down with syl-glide. I put the used pads on the caliper and took off the chrome clips that the pads normally sit on. They made it so tight that the pad wouldn't even go on with the clips on there. So im trying it this way to see what happens.

well I cleaned the upper pin and bushing on the caliper bracket and the lower bolt, and applied syl glide to them. The clips on the bracket,, (the shiny crome things the pads sit on) were new. I put syl glide on them, I looked at them now. and they are just kinda covered with brake dust . The silicone stuff just gets caked with it. WOndering if I should just forego putting anything on there. So, so far, you guys think its due to dirty caliper slide pins..?

it was just the caliper

about 5 months ago I had a brake issue with my drivers rear caliper sticking. I got a new caliper and installed it on the old (not very good) rotor and same pads as they had a lot of wear left in them. Just recently im hearing a noise from same left rear caliper,, grinding / dragging on breaking. Pulled the wheel, pulled the caliper up and pulled out the pads. The outer pad is fine with lots of tread left. The inner pad is worn down , and not very evenly I might add, to the point it is almost through to the rivets. When I installed the new caliper I put syl-glide on the clips and on the caliper pins.. A friend said maybe its my rubber break hoses collapsing because they are old and causing the piston to be stuck out. Im going to put on new rotors and pads. I just don't want the same thing to happen again. What are your thoughts.? Thanks.

rockauto works well for me.

nevermind,,, admin please delete.

I took the engine out,, However,, these other guys have done the heads in the car also. From what Ive learned,, they undo the engine mounts,, then move the engine side to side, depending on which side they are working and need the room on. Depending on how much room you have,, you MIGHT want to put a new gasket on the oil pan. The cross member is usually in the way. if you lift the engine up,, you may be able to get at those bolts that you normally cant. Regarding heads and torque. There is a procedure to torqing the bolts,, Yeah some of the procedure is to stretch new bolts, it wont hurt if you just do the entire procedure per the book. Don't just tighten them in whatever order you fell like. I used a hanes manual from parts store.

bleed screw is top left on radiator. Another thing you can do is take top hose off radiator,, pour water directly into top hose and into block. Thermostat or air bubble yeah.

You can do it. First off get a Hanes Manual. You can buy it online or at auto parts store. Its a how to book with pictures. "Where is it? " Follow your bottom radiator hose to the engine. That's where it is.

I had same problem. CHnaged tranny filter,, and drained the pan.. Didnt do complete flush.. It fixed it. I probably should do another pan drain .. Got lazy.

My opinion and how I would attack it. 1. Rule out air bubble . Fill the block with coolant through the top hose. Fill radiator, Start, run,, stop,, etc. Get it up to operating temp. Make sure its topped off. Drive short distance see what it does. 2. Still problems? Feel bottom hose,, Still cold.? Replace Thermostat. 3. Still problems? Its your head gasket. I had similar problems Bubbles in the over flow tank,, Water pushing out over flow. Overheating. I pulled the engine , replaced head gaskets. Sealed up all oil leaks while it was out. No more overheat problems.

If its a head gasket,, what happens is the exhaust pushes past the gasket and into the water jacket. It then pushes water out into the overflow bottle and eventually out of the overflow. After you are sure your system is full of water/coolant, monitor the bottle. I had a leak in my radiator recently.. lost alot of coolant. Over heated. So i if you were low enough on coolant that it overheated and had no heat, It could be you have a leak also.

Update: I went back to get it,, poured water into the top hose took quite a bit. filled radiator,, it was low too. Drove it home about 6-8 miles, Never went above the normal temp. heater was throwing heat again, unlike last night. Parked. Found radiator leaking pretty bad from the side. SO I guess I lost a lot of fluid over time,, or whatever. Ordered new radiator @rockauto $55. plus 16 shipping. Auto zone = 122. * I had taken the whole motor out when I re did the heads this summer. New hoses etc. when I pulled the top hose from the radiator I found "sandy grit" all around the inside of the hose. Im presuming this was somebody in the past using leak seal on the cooling system in the past. Because I never did. could be cast iron flakes too I guess.. I dunno. Thanks Texan and ccrinc

96 legacy wagon, 2.2, automatic Put new heads on this summer,, no problems since until tonight. Car over heated. After going about 8 miles. needle went to the top,, I parked it. Radiator cap was cool ,, I took it off ,, nothing bubbling out. Top hose was hot! Bottom hose was cool/warm. I have put in a new stant thermostat,, (the good one) when I did my heads. I could see wet/ water around the bacak of the passenger side head light. I tried to put more water in it,, and filled up the over flow bottle. I turned on the A/C and the heat on high. I tried to go back home,, but went about 2 miles or so and it was pegging again,, so I pulled off and sat it . I need to deal with it tomorrow. Suggestions? I THINK I might have slowly lost coolant over time and now I have a air bubble again or something. The Screw at the top left side of the radiator is sheared off and I cant remove it. MY plan is to remove top hose and try to pour water down into the block. , and start it and do this over and over again. Any help is appreciated.

your advance auto is very different than mine . resonator pipe @ advance = $178.99 Rock auto = $95.79 both walker resonator pipes.

just order a felpro head gasket off of rock auto.

could there be a bad temperature sensor?

2.2, 96 legacy wagon, (non outback) AWD Flange broke on the resonator (long) pipe. So I get a new one from rock auto gasket, do nut ring.. springs and bolts. I forgot that the exhaust all came off a 95 model. Anyway I went to put on the donut ring on the back of the rear catalytic converter only to find that its about 1/4 / 1/8 " to big on the ID. I cant get the spring bolts to reach the flange on the catalytic converter,, BECAUSE previous owner put an after market bolt on flange on the catalytic converter,, which makes the distance between flanges at least an inch further. I used some regular bolts to tighten the flanges together,, Still leaks around the donut. Im taking it to local yokel exhaust shop and have them fix it Any idea why every place I tried still gives me a part number for the cat do-nut which is too big. ? It doesn't fit around the catalytic tail piece snugly. Gonna cost me some money but I don't have a welding rig or the want-to to put another flange on the cat. The muffler piece flange is so corroded away it leaks as well,, even though I have a new gasket on there. Just wondering what im doing wrong.