loyale1993

Dang, seems discouraging because of the head gaskets. I don't mind doing brakes but I'm not wanting to do a head gasket job. Pretty common for those years huh?

I'm in the market for a used car. I am currently the proud owner of a 1993 loyal. It's been a great car but frankly I'm getting tired of maintaining it and I need something a bit bigger. I'm leaning towards another​ subie, I do like the Forester. I'd like to get some advice on what to look for. From what I have found in my price range ($5k) they seem to have around 150k miles and be in the early to mid 2000 year's. What should I expect to have been done maintenance wise? Are there different motors for same models? Any and all info would be great!

Tore into the axle today and swapped it out with a new one. The metal grinding noise is gone now. However, I did have a new squealing noise. So I put the car back in the air and inspected my work and it all looked fine. I sprayed some wd40 where the axle meets the knuckle and the squeal stopped. Drove it a few miles and still no noises.

I'm going to look at it this weekend. I'll leave an update.

OK I did that and no play.

Wish I could weld. Someday I'll take a class and learn

How about checking the bearings any tips?

I just replaced the driver side a few days ago. Now I got something going on with the passenger side. It's not a clicking noise but a metal rubbing noise. Do I need to take it apart to check bearings? I don't have any play when I try to move the tire.

OK. Anyway to tell for sure before I go buying parts?

Can a cv axle go bad with out the boots being torn? I'm trying to diagnose a metal grinding noise on my front passenger side.

Buy you a Haynes manual off Amazon for a couple bucks. They are a pretty good source for these cars and they have the wiring diagrams.

I would check the battery terminals if those are not new. I was plagued with starting issues but the dash lights and everything else worked. It turned out I had some corrosion on the inside of the battery wire terminals. I looked at the most complicated issues first and it was a simple 30 second fix with a wire brush.

I was pretty much right on the money. I bought a socket and checked the torque of all 4 axel nuts and they were all pretty close to 150 lbs. So, with that said, a 235 lbs. guy standing on a 12" crescent wrench adding 3-4 bounces is equal to 150 ft lbs. of torque. It is proven science

I agree. I will pick up a socket for it tomorrow. What size 32,33mm? Got the torque wrench already.

When I did my brakes was the last time I had the hub off probably a year ago. I didn't have the correct size socket so I just used a big crescent wrench and tightened them up as much as I could. I'm not sure how this one got loose beings there is a cotter pin preventing the nut from spinning. I only recently heard the noise coming from that side. It was intermittent so I wrote it off. That car makes all kinds of different noises so I would be a real busy guy if I tried to track them all down lol. I checked into this noise because it was new and I heard it a few times more frequently. Anyway I will check for tightness in another day or so. Probably time to expand my socket collection to torque them down properly. Oh darn I have to get more tools

I have been driving it for the last couple days and it seems fine so far fingers crossed lol

Just buy a stock alternator and boom problem solved! lol

In motion and I would say intermittent. Sometimes I hear it at low speeds 35 mph and also at high speeds 65 mph. But since I tightened my castle nut I haven't heard it at all.

Catalytic converter maybe o2 sensor? Is your egr working properly?

Took a look at it and didn't hear a grinding noise when I spun the tire. I felt some play when I moved the tire typical to bad bearings. I noticed that my castle nut was moving and I could jiggle it with my fingers. The cotter pin was still in place so I couldn't take the nut off. I tightened the castle nut and drove it around the block no issues. So I guess I'll keep an eye on it.

It seems intermittent. On my way home today I heard it a couple of times and not during a right hand turn like I did this morning. I was wondering about the bearings too. I'll check it out this evening. Any sure way to diagnose the CV axle?

I'm hearing a "Grumbling" noise coming from the front right of the car as I am driving (40-50 mph) and also on right hand turns. I have read about "clicking" noise from the cv axle when they go bad do ya'll think it could be the same thing? That axel has about 60k on it while the left side has I'm assuming 174k what gives? lol Thanks!

Thanks! I'm glad I posted on here asking for advice. Hopefully I don't break any of the bolts off.

Looks like a new manifold gasket is in order. I noticed coolant on the back right side of the head. I cleaned the area and ran the engine. Using a ultraviolet light I watched the coolant seep from the manifold. Thank God it wasn't head gasket! Any pointers on doing this job? Seems like a PIA.

Thanks ya'll. I've had the car for 3 years and I have had random times where it pinged but now it seems to be more regular. I have not changed the plugs and I know they are not NGK but I took them out a few months back and they looked ok. The car is completely stock except for the foot print gas peddle I had installed to get a few more ponies out of her. Thermostat and PCV are only a couple years old and no known vacuum leaks are present. It has been running a little warm but I suspect the sending unit for the gauge is the culprit. I hit the top of the T stat housing with a laser thermometer and I get a reading of 180ish. I fiddled with the gauge wire a little and it has been giving me an acceptable reading on the gauge since. So, I suppose I will start with changing the plugs and go from there. What dose TSB stand for?