sirtokesalot

i use this style. it is an o2 spacer can be found on ebay.

its a 2001 outback. it was a firestone. i know the rear only has a tow adjustment. do they make an aftermarket cam bolt that can add more adjustment? as far as i can tell its never been in an accident. and aside from buying adjustable camber arms is there a cam bolt i can get for those? i know the front camber is adjustable my buddy said they wont touch it unless u ask specifically. i did buy a lifetime alignment so i can get it redone free anytime. as far as front caster i saw a video the other night where someone loosened the subframe and shifted it to get the caster to even out left to right. im gonna guess this is my only option to try and even out caster unless i got expensive adjuster plates? all in all the car does drive amazingly i kinda just want to see it all green on the chart

i just finished replacing every control arm and bushing on the suspention front and rear and got an alignment. i dont think they did the front camber adjustment why would caster be out of spec 3.0 on drivers side witch is in spec and 3.6 on passenger out of spec. and the rear passenger tow adjustment was maxed out and could only get to 0.24 drivers side rear is 0.01 rear camber is also out at 2.0 and 2.2.

so does the lack of an answer mean it wont work?

currently waiting to have my cousin buy the transmission until were 100% sure it will work.

here is the code for the possible replacement transmission. i can get the rear diff with it as well would the trans function in a 1998 outback? also would i need the flex plate or would the one on the outback currently work? TZ102ZA5AA-GN

i do not have a trans code for this one but maby might be known without. would a 97 impreza trans work in the 98 outback? i found a 97 impreza trans with 120,000 on it but the seller did not post the trans code with it. i did messege and ask for a picture of the code but havent heard from him yet and am just wondering if its needed.

i used info from here https://legacypic.uk/transmission/ i also asked about it on a facebook group and it seems like this transmission is not compatible with the 98 outback.

trying to help my cousin get his 98 outback going again. the front diff went dry and seized currently looking at transmissions. his car has a TZ102Z2DBA currently in it. will a TZ1A2ZJEAA work electronically? they are both same final drive ratios.

are the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder transmission speed sensors the same? i have spare speed sensors and harnesses from transmissions ive scrapped that slipped. the transmission drives fine and shifts perfect. no slipping the car did sit parked for a while before he got it. mileage is 68,000. the transmission handshake only gave up the code 93 for the speed sensor.

he got the car about a month ago. it has under 100,000 miles on it i believe everything is original on it. the abs and vdc lights were on and recently started with the at temp light. so the sensor i want to check is the one at the furthest back? or is it the one slightly up and forward from the back?

im trying to help a friend out with his at temp light flashing. it has a code 93 Rear vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. my question is witch sensor is the rear vehicle speed sensor? it also had abs and vdc lights on. the at temp starts flashing as soon as you try to drive it and tcm has code 93. i have read the cel light and forget what code was on at that time but it was not related to transmission or speed signals.

maby a strut top is seizing and making it bind when turning?

i was looking at the wiring diagram and it showed a relay so i figured there was a relay for them.

no one knows where the relay is located?

i want to do a mod to my car so the windows will work if the drivers door is open and the key is not in. my thought is to energize the power window relay from the door switch on the drivers door so anytime the door is open the windows should work and then would work normally with the key. where is the power window relay located? its a 2001 outback.

sorry i disappeared. the bmw developed a new issue and havent managed to get parts to fix it yet so its been parked again. the batt bulb on the bmw does work. it lights up with key on and goes out with key off but i know if u unhook the plug on the alternator it stops charging and the light does not come on. it is difficult to get to the alternator plugs on the bmw with the air box installed and it has the old school air flow meter in the airbox so it wont run without it installed. i would up just installing a volt gauge in the dash to monitor charging but id like to make the idiot light function at some point because the water pump is driven by the alternator belt as well and would like any warnings i could to notify me of overheating possibility's.

i have tried it in a few configurations and i beleive i cannot get the light on the bmw to work with the subaru alternator. oh well it charges anyways.

i have mounted a 1995 subaru outback alternator to a 1987 bmw and im trying to figure out how to get the battery light to function on the bmw. what does the subaru alternator put out to make the battery light come on when charging stops? how exactly does that bulb circuit work on a 1995 outback? i currently have it installed and functioning as it charges the battery but the bulb on the dash never lights.

getting near 2500 miles now since repair so far so good.

i have a pioneer radio but use the factory speaker wiring from the radio to the doors. this morning i went to leave and had no door speakers at all only subs. i pulled the radio and unhooked speakers one at a time and when i unhooked the drivers door the other 3 speakers came back to life. i took the door apart and found nothing visually wrong but after taking the door apart i was able to re attached the drivers door speaker without it killing the other 3. what can cause this? i also noticed that it was only the ground wire for the speaker that would kncok it out the positive wire would make the speaker come to life but only if i left the ground unhooked. after pulling door apart was able to hook up both wires to the speaker.

had a scare last night with it. apparently the passenger ball joint nut dident like being off and on multiple times over the past year and the nut was compromised. went around a corner and the nut popped off the ball joint and it separated. ended up jacking it up there and re assembling the ball joint using a lug nut for the ball joint to get it home. i swapped the lug nut for a standard castle nut with new cotter pin. it had one of those lock nuts on there before. even found the old nut with the threads tore out of it. i read the torque spec for the ball joint is 29.5 ft pound i put it up to 40 ft pound with new nut and a little more for the cotter so im prety sure it should stay put now. so far no at temp light but i havent really driven it far yet.

well heres my current plan. i just de pinned the tcu connector and the transmission connector from a scrap harness i have in the attic and stole the pins from it. i am going to depin the yellow/green wire from the tcu side and the transmission side and re pin it with a new wire. hopfully this will fix the issue and if not im sure ill be back again. will update in time.

the light was not flashing so i asume it was working at the time i tested it. wiggling wires did not make it drop out ither.

yellow wire with green stripe at tcu. meter on ohm setting and everything connected. on startup both cars show around 15 to 16 ohms in park in reverse both cars show around 60 ohms neutral ol drive 3 2 and 1 around 60 ohms and park only shows an ohm reading when first started that reading goes to ol after a little waiting or after shifting out of park and back to park. readings are within 1 ohm of each other between the 2 cars.