sirtokesalot

that woulda been nice. the big issue i had was making the locks work and security arm at the same time. for some reason the cars keyless module wont arm/disarm the security if the locks are being operated at the same time a second issue i had was that remote starting would make the alarm go off but that was easy to remedy compared to the lock thing. i had to make the security think the locks were not being operated for it to arm/disarm while the remote starter did the actual lock controls. in order for this to work thogh required having a keyless module installed due to power locks not working at all unless it was there. thuse 2 keyless modules one being able to see locks but not security and one being able to see security but not locks.

well i figured out a way to make it happen. i used 2 keyless modules. one keyless module is allowed to see the locking system but not allowed to talk tot he security module the other keyless module is allowed to talk to the security but not the locks. power locks now work and i can arm/disarm the factory alarm using my remote starter fob.

is it possible to disconnect the power locks from the keyless and have them still work? ive been trying to bypass the power locks so the keyless unit wont see them operating. when i unplug the keyless unit the power locks stop working all together. ive looked at the fsm and tried to unsolder the pins from the keyless for the locking system and bypass them by jumping the inputs to the outputs and still do not get power locks. the power locks do work if i have my un modified keyless unit installed. the reasoning for this madness is i want to make the factory security work with a remote starter but from what ive gathered it only arms and disarms from the factory fob. so far ive modded my factory fob so i can activate the lock and unlock buttons on it by 12v from relays. if i wire the factory fob into the remote starts lock commands it will run the factory fobs cycle and arm/disarm the securty as well as lock and unlock the doors but theres an issue running it that way. the factory fob wont unlock the doors if ive remote started the car. round 2 i tried hooking the remote start to control the locks and to activate the factory keyfob at the same time. in this configuration it runs the door locks and the fob at the same time but even though the fob lights up like ti sent the command it will not arm/disarm the security while the door locks are being activated. so this is where i am now i thoght i could make the keyless module just simply not see the lock system by jumping around the keyless but that dident work when i tried to plug the module back in the power locks did not work. i do have 3 keyless modules so this mod was done on one of the spares. so my question is what do i have to do to make the power locks function without the keyless module in the mix

so far havent found much we wired in the reverse lights and speedo today as well as tidied up some of the other wiring. the code comes on currently every 3 starts on his and were not sure if the resistor bank we built is correct.

yea ive been through alot of what i could find on google. the standard code descriptions are not too helpful here as they are saying what could be wrong with the automatic transmission and in this case there is no automatic transmission in the car. its a manual now.

well my friend had many things happen today. he found the cam sensor was actually not fully plugged in and when he plugged it in the engine started running great. built a resistor pack to fool the tcu still getting p0866 TCM Communication Circuit High code so far its the only code its spitting out would anyone know what the ecu wants to see from the tcu to not set this code?

ive been helping a friend do a manual swap on a 2004 h6 outback. at the moment the engine and trans are in the car the auto gear selector is plugged in and in neutral and have the shift switch bypassed so can remove the key. it runs and drives but it runs very poorly. would the tcu not seeing the transmission cause running issues? from what i understood the car wouldent be happy not seeing the transmission and throw lights on but i thoght it would run normal. yes the plan is to wire the manuals speed sensor in and get everything working but we thoght it would run better than it does. the engine ran great before the swap but it was also torn down and had new head gaskets and timing stuff put in. it seems to run really nice for moments then runs like crap and stalls but starts back up runs good then bad back and forth

so subaru says there discontinued does anyone know of a material i can buy to make them? or a way to make the old ones seal again? im referring to the foam seals between the light and the door. i have the light off my door currently because i had to re seal around the light last night but the gaskets that seal it to the door look horrible and tore a little when i was pulling the light off. and yes ii do know i can order them online but would like to just take care of it now while the lights off the car. 2001 subaru outback

sounds like not much. i asked about the filler because im having a slow filling issue and the exhaust because its new. i guess everything els will be up for sale likely soon

im starting to get myself into a stage where im about done with my old car and while its mechanically perfect the rear end is so rusty its better off as parts and will likely be parting it in the future but im curious what parts from the 98 outback can be used on a 2001 outback if any? stuff i should save for the new car. one of the big ones im thinking of is will my brand new filler neck on the 98 fit on the 2001? exhaust fuel pump starter anything i can use from it? i likely wont be getting rid of any of the parts more pulling them and storing them for sale but id like to know what i can keep for spares on the new car.

u dont need to remove rear axles to flat tow but at the least have to remove rear driveshaft. front axles thogh if being flat towed yes have to come out. and u will have to have a way to keep the bearings together. however if using a dolly and only the rear tires on the ground then only need to remove rear driveshaft from diff and tie it up to the side.

yes but requires some work. u have to unbolt the rear driveshaft from the rear diff and tie it up to the side as well as u need 2 spare preferably bad axles u can destroy and remove the hub side from the axle then remove the axles from the car and put just the axle ends into the bearings and bolt them in place so the bearings wont separate. once this is done it is safe to flat tow however far u want. if this is not done it may cause damage to transmission. a second option is to rent a tow dolly and just unbolt the rear driveshaft from the diff/tie it up to the side and dolly tow it with the front wheels off the ground and driveshaft disconnected.

this is on my friends car. its a 2002 legacy gt sedan and it is having a starter delay when u turn the key. sometimes it starts right up sometimes u have to hold the key int he start position for 3 to 5 seconds before it kicks in and starts. ive already swapped the starter with a known working one and the issue is still there. what els could cause this issue? '

theres a rear view mirror heater? what wopuld that be needed for? unless your talking about the side mirrors and the switch for that is on the door.

in my outback the left is fog light middle is cruise control right is heated windshield the center console would be driver and passenger heated seat switches.

so this is where im at now. still dont know how i like it because the dash lights are slightly different color than the other leds i got for the switches.

u need to remove the security module mounted ither tot he right of the radio or under the drivers kick panel left side of the radio console mounted to the pillar in the center. i have seen it here on some models. u will also have to remove the 2 relays mounted above and tot he left of the interior fuse box and install a jumper wire in one of the 2 relay sockets to bypass the starter lockout. i believe this is all u need to do. im not sure witch 2 wires need to be jumped though i can look tomorrow but wont be until late afternoon after work and im sure someone will chime in by then. if not ill get a picture of the factory jumper in mine. i cannot remeber for sure but the security module might have been behind the glove box on the left side in one ive seen as well but had to remove glove box to get to it.

those fobs are for the newer subarus. i have one of the 95-99 fobs it looks nothing like the ones on that site.

if the combo of white and green doesn't look right i was thinking about glow int he dark red paint for the needles. id still have to figure out the hvac controls dial color being wrong. might just have to use the original style bulb in that one spot. ill post pics later when i figure out whats the best combo of colors to go with. im doing every light minus the warning bulbs in the instrument cluster. every switch and back light. im currently waiting for the next 2 colors of led's now i should have ordered them when i got the green ones but didn't know i would need the different colors. tracking says by the 9th so could be anyday before then but by the 9th i should know what im doing with it.

i put the green leds in today and it looks great but its not quite right. i had to order some red and white ones as well and am waiting for those now. the green led's drown out the red and blue like the needles on the gauges and the blue/red on the heat control dial. the red is almost non existent with the green led's and blue is now green. im hoping if i mix a combo of green and white in certain places i can get the colors right and not look off. the red ones are for the indicators on the switches to show the selected item is on vs off because green led's completely down out the red diffuser in the switches.

i ment to do this the other day but kept forgetting. this is how my headlights have turned out over the last year. its been just over a year since i did the wet sand and polishing of the headlights all i did was wipe the dirt off them before the pics.

why not refinish the ones u have? ive done mine. takes alot of time with wet sanding but they come out very nice in the end. the drivers one was as bad as the passenger one before. and yes the passenger one was leaking i replaced it with another one but had to refinish it too.

i wound up hunting for hours and found some green led's with solderable leads on them and ordered those. im just going to untwist the bulbs off the original bases and twist the new ones in. it took some time to find led's that were 12 volt without a resistor being needed but i found them ill update when they arrive how well they work. hopfully they will fit in all the bub locations. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Green-4-7mm-Mini-LED-Bulbs-Instrument-Panel-Backlight-Gauge-Lights-12V/293056962307?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 if they dont work out i have other projects i can use them in.

i do still have the old trans the new one is the same 4.44 ratio as the original one it just came from a legacy vs an outback. how would one get this speedo drive gear out without taking the trans apart?

4eat