sirtokesalot

it is possible its just piston slap but it still bothers me. the low compression engine i have did run and drive from where i got the car to where the engine was pulled and i know that engine did not knock it just had low compression so ither way it goes ill likely still slap new rings and head gaskets on that engine redo the heads and have an engine to swap in this summer if it lasts the winter witch im thinking it will due to it not really getting worst minus when its really cold. it doesn't fully go away when its warm but it does get much quieter.

well i changed it today and its still there. im likely going to build another engine for it that doesn't knock for next summer or whenever it lets go. it might never let go it might just be severe piston slap ither way i dont like it so engine swap will be in order as soon as i can ither find a good one cheap or get this low compression one rebuilt

im starting to believe its a bad tensioner. i took the drivers timing cover back off and with a 2 foot extension i listened around the block with one end to ym ear and the other on spots around the block. the left and right heads are pretty quiet if i take the oil cap off and listen inside the crank case i hear nothing knocking if i put the extension above the timing tensioner i hear the knock and if i put the extension down on the tensioner its self i hear it the loudest through the extension and i can feel the knocking as well on the side of my ear while listening to it. im going to pull the tensioner off my 2001 forester parts engine and see if that fixes it hoping to get the job done tomorrow night or Thursday. the timing belt was new about 4000 miles 1 year ago but the tensioner was reused. it should be fine to just reuse the belt i would think yes?

it seems the more i drive it the louder it is getting still only while cold though and it is not getting louder fast but definitely seems louder than it was before. however u can still hear it when it warms up while accelerating just not very loud. i don't think its piston slap a friend of mine seems to think its a rod knock but i dunno about that ither as it doesn't sound like any rod knock ive heard before. what is the cheapest way to fix an engine with low compression can i just put rings in it and new gaskets or is there more to it than that? i have a 2001 forester block that had low compression when we pulled it last year before scrapping the car.

ive learned i can use the box that's there and just ad a few things from the other box witch i do have in the part car. there's a few sensors that i need to ad and id need to build a circuit to control the a/c compressor witch i think would be the hardest part of it. ive been basing it from this post here. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?19317-Converting-2000-Legacy-GT-to-Automatic-Climate-Control

i like the look of the digital one better

well i think ive decided to throw myself into hell and i want the digital hvac controls. ive been separating the hvac wiring from the main harnesses on a parts h6 for a while now slowly making progress if anyone would like updates on this as it goes ill keep updating it but it will likely be a slow process and may end up with the project going on hold for a bit at times. i will likely end up running into some issues i will need help getting past with wiring as well when i get to some stuff like the a/c but im trying to maker it be a stand alone setup so i dont have to cut or modify the factory wiring but rather install a secondary harness just for the hvac control

i do have another ej25 engine but it had low compression and misfired pretty bad thogh it did run and not make any odd sounds. how likely is it that the block is fine and the compression issues were int he heads?

update. im not sure witch axle it was i replaced both front axles today and the wobble is gone.

well the idea was that i have the ej22 block and figured i could get that engine running with the cost of head gaskets.

is there a head combo that would not lower the compression and still work? i wouldent mind a little less power as long as it runs and drives reliably and possibly retain the non interference bit if possible. its mainly a thoght for now as my 2.5 still runs but my 2.2 block was one of the quietest subaru engines ive ever heard. it had no internal knocks or piston slap sounds.

whats the difference between a 95 2.2 block and a 2001 2.5 block? is it possible to merge the 2 engines together using the 2.2 block and run it in the 2001 outback?

well i caved and screwed it to the trim panel blocking the passenger dash vent. i wanted my xm back. im open to other ideas of places to put it i dont quite like it there but its there for now. i have a spare dash vent panel to swap it out later and not have holes screwed into it.

does anyone here still use a separate xm radio? where did you mount it? ive been looking at it for a few days now holding it in different spots all around the dash and just cant seem to find anywhere it would fit and be user friendly at the same time.

if thats piston slap thats the loudest piston slap i ever heard in one of these engines. this engine i was told only has 115,000 miles on it.

would the cam tensioner get quiet after a few minutes of the car running? that sound will completely go away after driving about a mile or 2. or if i leave it idling for 10 or so minutes. heres another vid of it running with the drivers side timing cover off the tensioner seems prety stable to me but the sound does seem to be coming from the center of the engine vs one or the other side. u can tell by the end of the video however that it is already starting to get quieter from just running for the couple minutes it was running messing with it. should i let it warm up and make another vid of how it sounds warm? this sound only happens when the engines cold.

ive been noticing a tick when the engine is cold that goes away within a minute or 2 of driving i have provided a video of the sound u can hear it more near the end when i stop and open the door at the end of my driveway. this is on a 2001 outback 2.5 engine. what do you guys think this could be? ive been thinking maby a valve tick?

it does seem to be less of a wobble while its turning vs just rolling strait.

yes i took the calipers and rotors off cleaned the hub surface the back of the rotor mating surface the front part of the rotors mating surface and the back of the wheels surface so all points of contact were wire wheeled clean.

it rocks left and right slowly and the faster it rolls the faster it rocks back and forth. id say maby about a half an inch of left right movement

and to update on this situation i decided to jack the front end up from the cross member under the engine and try to drive the car. it will push forward on just the rear wheels alone so i do think the awd is working and i did not change the rear solenoid valve. im not going to unless someone can give me a good reason too.

update i took the front brakes apart today both front calipers the pistons are free and can push one in by hand the other comes out and will do that with ither piston i push on the caliper. slide pins are free and lubricated pads wearing evenly i decided while it was apart to wire wheel the corrosion off the hubs and the backs of the wheels re inspected everything tie rods still good lower ball joints still good bearings good put back tires/wheels on the front and the wobble remains. what els can cause it? the car drives smooth other than the wobble and has no bad noises from the wheels or suspension this was not suposed to be a quote i dunno why it quoted that messege. no axle noises no torn axle boots

ive been noticing a steering wobble in my 2001 outback it was there both before and after changing the front hubs i also tried a different set of tires and wheels the wobble remains. what can cause the wheel to wobble when driving? at slow speeds its a slow wobble and as u go faster the wheel wobbles faster. it has good lower ball joints and tie rods nothing seems loose in the suspension im just not sure what to look at from here.

This is the part I need to change yes?

so do i have to actually swap the valve or could i just swap the whole rear half of the case with the valve in it? im still not really sure if i need to but im guessing i should anyways while i have the transmission. ive been noticing some front wheel spin sometimes and been questioning if awd is working pr not. i think it is kind of because it wont keep spinning for long on wet grass but will spin sometimes on wet pavement and in gravel very easy. yet there is also a very noticeable difference between fwd fuse in and fwd fuse out so maby its just that im not used to the extra power and taller gears? i came from driving a 2.2 outback on 3.90 gear set to the 2.5 outback on 4.44.